Autobox not changing

Start in 1 and then shift to 2, does it change up then?

Re-reading thread. You haven't posted that you have checked the ATF level.

davek0974 said:

AFIK, if you stuff it in 1 it will stay in 1 until you change to D or 2 - 3 yourself.

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andyb66 said:

Yep that is the way ^^^

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true, but if you put it in 2 at standstill and set off it will still start in first then change up. There is no manual overide that i know of other than stopping it from changing up gears and you cant make it stay in 2 or 3 as it would just change down when you go slower (working the same as if it was in auto/D but just restricting the highest gear)

bobbler said:

true, but if you put it in 2 at standstill and set off it will still start in first then change up.

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Yes that is what I expected. But you can put it in 1 and move off then shift to 2 yourself and it will change up it the engine revs are high enough.

Doing this test will help point to where the problem lies.

I think maybe we were saying the same thing in two different ways

think your right andy was getting a bit confused about manual mode, used to have a honda semi-auto that would stay in gear (high or low) unless you told it otherwise or it was going to damage something running revs too high or too low.

gR@HaM said:

Thanks for the replys.
If I drive it in 1,2,3 or D it won't change up from first gear even at revs above 4K rpm.
The only time it will jump up to next gear is when I'm going down a particularly steep hill so I guess the autobox is also operated by speed (not just rpm).

Does this help??
Thanks

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Yes, there can be speed governors, vacuum connections to the engine, and various other things that control the shift point. The kickdown just tells the box to force a downshift when you tell it you want it not when it wants to.

If it is refusing to change at all, either in D or by starting off in 1 then telling it to go to 2 etc, then it is most likely pump or valve block. There is a chance that the brake bands could be tweaked if they are slipping but i'm not sure if these are accessable on the landy box.

Have you checked the fluid????

I checked the fluid with engine running and gearbox in park.
The ATF oil was actually above max, goldern redish colour.
I shall have a go at replacing it once the rain stops it could probably do with changing anyway, just spent over £100 on a fresh lot of selenia oil for the alfa!!

The gears definitely didn't change up when selecting 2 after 1 but shall try it again this time whilst maintaining high revs.

This pump/block we speak of are you referring to a gearbox oil pump?
Would like to do some reading to see what else I can check.

Thanks for the pointers so far,..

gR@HaM said:

This pump/block we speak of are you referring to a gearbox oil pump?
Would like to do some reading to see what else I can check.

Thanks for the pointers so far,..

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Yes its an internal pump driven from the input shaft after the torque converter.

If you get that far to change the pump you may as-well change the gearbox too but first try to adjust the kick-down off it sounds like its stuck open to me. Worth a try anyhow its the one your holding in the top picture. If that don't work it's probably easier to change the box as they are quite complex to strip down. Regards Steve

Thing is it was running fine on the motorway until I (stupidly) put excessive force into the accelerator pedal to test if it would go to the floor. Tbh I really don't know what I was thinking!!
Could that really cause damage actually inside thebox?!
It really felt like something had just moved in the pedal mechanism the gearbox was still running smooth until i came off the m56 and tried to pull away from 1sr gear.

I did fully adjust the plastic nut on thd kickdown cable, both ways, but it only seemed to affect the travel in accelerator pedal

It does sound like the pedal / cables were not adjusted correctly at the start, the pedal should bottom out at max travel preventing all the force going into the box via the cables.

If it accessible try disconnecting the K/D cable and moving the gearbox lever back to the non K/D position then test it. If it is stuck in K/D then it likely wont shift properly at lower settings. It maybe the force has sheared a pin allowing the lever to stay shifted wile the shaft moves. Its looking like the box will have to come out.

Make sure when it all goes back that max pedal travel is set correctly and you should be able to stand on the pedal without damage.

'kin ell - not sure whether I'm capable of removing the gearbox tbh!!
Have done a lot of work to it by meself now including stripping down half shalfts, swivels etc and doing a recon head job. Would pulling thd gearbox out be much harder? Would I need ang special tools? I guess it's pretty heavy! Suppose I could sort out the leaking rear crank seal at thd same time!!

The plastic nut on mine is the throttle cable the one with the two 13mm nuts is the kick-down. Have you adjusted that one

smurphy said:

The plastic nut on mine is the throttle cable the one with the two 13mm nuts is the kick-down. Have you adjusted that one

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Nope!! Shall have a go at setting it up as per Haynes, thanks.
Although by the look if all the filth on the screw thread of the metal adjuster it hasn't moved in a long time..

So after getting a search lamp in the footwell I can't see anything obvious (to me) that has snapped or dislocated although its hard to see all of what's going on up there. It looks like the throttle is operated by the rotary switch at the top (fly by wire?) and the lower cable is cruise control - although of I may be completely wrong.


checked the ATF as detailed in haynes - motor running with box in park and cold transmission. The level is still showing to be very high any ideas what may have caused this?? Unless if corse it was over filled by previous owner


I'm off to buy some fluid...

gR@HaM said:

So after getting a search lamp in the footwell I can't see anything obvious (to me) that has snapped or dislocated although its hard to see all of what's going on up there. It looks like the throttle is operated by the rotary switch at the top (fly by wire?) and the lower cable is cruise control - although of I may be completely wrong.

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That is the throttle cable your looking at, if you follow the other cable from the same place in the engine bay you will see that it goes to the gearbox. Just adjust it off it wont hurt anything. As for you fluid level someone has posted on the other thread.

sierrafery said:

That's all i can do for u

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Going back to the rave link (cheers sierraferry) I noticed a lot of play in the kickdown cable. The gap between thread and metal crimp is supposed to be 1mm!!


so definitely an issue with where kickdown is attached to the gearbox, although it is still attached and feels like it's operating when I give it a pull.
I'm guessing it's come off a cam/bracket of some description?

Please tell me the gearbox doesn't have to come out??!

I guess nobody knows then? The plan for later is to strip out the interior console and gear selector trim hopefully I can get access that way..

Just found this maybe I'm not the only one who had had this problem!!

ZF HP22 Kickdown cable - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

According to a thread on this site I can just remove the sump to gain access, the guy seems to have had exactly the same issue as me, any pointers much appreciated chaps

Land Rover Owner :: View topic - 300 tdi Discovery Auto gearbox, sticking in gears

davek0974 said:

does it work in manual mode - 1 or 2 etc???

kickdown cable wont stop it changing up / down, only affects kickdown.

if it wont change at all it suggests pump failure or valve block problems.

dave

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just took it out after changing ATF to see if it makes a difference but still no improvement, it doesn't drive any different whether in 1, 2, 3 or D and only changes up a gear when it feels like it (not influenced by going from 1-2 etc)
I also checked the pump by removing the sensor from gearbox oil cooler pipe near the rad, there was plently oil oil flowing with engine running.

Next step to remove the gearbox sump