Hippo
Lord Hippo
- Posts
- 51,923
If it were mines... I would get the tin cover oft the solenoids and make sure I remove all the sealer so none gets left inside the auto. I would take pic's as I go along so I know what's what if I get problems putting stuff back. Use a 6 sided socket to get the bolts oft. In general I would have a look over it to see if it's dirty and any signs of anything wrong. Like the multiway connector in the top left not pushed together fully. While yer there you can check the resistance of the solenoids and sensors from where the wire connects to it, and the solenoid metal case. The wires join to the solenoids with a push on plug. Check they grip reasonably tight onto the peg on the solenoid, so they have a good electrical connection.
Historically peeps have taken out the solenoids and found nothing wrong. Put them back to find the fault they had but couldn't detect, vanished. If yer take the whole solenoid block oft then have a look over it with a bright enough light to be able to find an defects in it. It's been said on occasion the block was the case of the problem with issues like loss of pressure. So we assume the gasket leaked or the block had a split which may only have appeared when hot.
There's a cork gasket to seal the tin cover on the solenoids for other jatco users. LR used piped sealer instead. I assume they did this because the vehicle was more likely to go through water which cork would soak in and cause problems over time. Be careful not to put too much sealer on or it can spread across the mating surface and run oft on the inner edge inside the auto. Sealer stuck in the flow of auto oil can cause problems.
DSCN2979 E5zpwVN
DSCN2978 79XxmNB
