Are you using the right oil in your Land Rover?

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all of it.

but if you want to believe the marketing hype and waste loadsamunny, that's up to you.
I'll stick to me Tractor Universal at a quarter the price (and actually better oil for a Landy injun).

Oh and engine flushes are a seriously bad idea - especially for a higher mileage engine.

It's not marketing hype it's fact

It's a BMW engine and the Universal Tractor oil you use is not better it's just cheap and if you told BMW that you were gonna put universal tractor oil in one of their engines they would definately tell you it was not a great idea.

It's a standard mineral oil for a start, unapproved by any car manufacturer and low spec'd as an engine oil because it cannot contain all the anti wear additives etc found in proper engine oil because it has to be able to work in gearbox, hydraulics etc just as it wont be better than a proper gearbox oil or a proper hydraulic oil for their application, it's a comprimise so that farmers can rationalize to one oil.

Even if Halfords fully synthetic is used it will be far better for that engine than Universal Tractor oil

As for engine flushes, i use them in my 97 300tdi 125k mile defender with no problems, everyone that has had a service in our workshop for the past 28 years has had one with no problems and everyone that has had a service at a Land Rover main dealers will have had one so i don't see any reason not to use them.
 
It's not marketing hype it's fact

It's a BMW engine and the Universal Tractor oil you use is not better it's just cheap and if you told BMW that you were gonna put universal tractor oil in one of their engines they would definately tell you it was not a great idea.

It's a standard mineral oil for a start, unapproved by any car manufacturer and low spec'd as an engine oil because it cannot contain all the anti wear additives etc found in proper engine oil because it has to be able to work in gearbox, hydraulics etc just as it wont be better than a proper gearbox oil or a proper hydraulic oil for their application, it's a comprimise so that farmers can rationalize to one oil.

Even if Halfords fully synthetic is used it will be far better for that engine than Universal Tractor oil

As for engine flushes, i use them in my 97 300tdi 125k mile defender with no problems, everyone that has had a service in our workshop for the past 28 years has had one with no problems and everyone that has had a service at a Land Rover main dealers will have had one so i don't see any reason not to use them.
well must say i always use a engine flush on both my freelanders 99 series 123000 and td4 85000
 
engine flushes are just an excuse fer stealers to add to the bill.
they don't even do it half the time.

bit like so called anti-baterial treatment fer yer aircon.

there's a mug born every minute - luckily for you eh?
 
engine flushes are just an excuse fer stealers to add to the bill.
they don't even do it half the time.

bit like so called anti-baterial treatment fer yer aircon.

there's a mug born every minute - luckily for you eh?
i am not talking about dealers i am doing it my self
 
Hi Ming

with regards to the TD4 engine

Obviously it's your engine but why not use the oil that best protects your engine for the sake of an extra £20 (in oil cost) per year.

best regards
OK Pussy Ive taken your point, but and hear me out, i have had this debate many a time, and i look at the td4 engine and compare it mechanically to other engines ,and its nothing special, i do think there is a lot of blag [snake oil] done mainly by oil manufactures to make you use their products as opposed to others. . . .in fact i don't even think synthetic is all its cracked up to be, just my own thoughts :) :) :)
 
engine flushes are just an excuse fer stealers to add to the bill.
they don't even do it half the time.

bit like so called anti-baterial treatment fer yer aircon.

there's a mug born every minute - luckily for you eh?

The way i look at it is when i don't use an engine flush my oil goes black by the time it goes once around the engine and when i do use an engine flush it takes about 500 miles to go black.

With regards to anti bacterial treatment, if you had a customer complaining of a musty smell coming from the air vents what would you do to solve this problem because bacteria on the evaporator is the problem.

It's very easy to vegetate in some kind of "they are only out to get your money" paranoia rather than actually trying to understand the science behind something.
 
Uncle CharlesY has forgotten more about Landy's than you'll ever know and he's run his TD5 on Tractor Universal for years.
It's top quality / top spec oil, just packaged and marketed for farmers who are tight fisted bastids, but wouldn't put any old crap in their very expensive, hard working equipment, upon which their liveleyhood depends.
 
OK Pussy Ive taken your point, but and hear me out, i have had this debate many a time, and i look at the td4 engine and compare it mechanically to other engines ,and its nothing special, i do think there is a lot of blag [snake oil] done mainly by oil manufactures to make you use their products as opposed to others. . . .in fact i don't even think synthetic is all its cracked up to be, just my own thoughts :) :) :)

I see what you mean, on paper the TD4 shouldn't be anything out of the ordinary.

All i will say is that the oil specifications don't come from the oil manufacturers they come from the vehicle manufacturers. With regards to the snake oil aspect of things, synthetic oils can handle much higher temperature than mineral oils without burning off and they have a much higher film strength than mineral oil. This is not just the words of the oil companies but independent oil specialists too.

In jet engines synthetic oil is the only oil that can be used because of the extreme operating conditions and high heat and the importance of wear reduction for reliability. :)
 
Uncle CharlesY has forgotten more about Landy's than you'll ever know and he's run his TD5 on Tractor Universal for years.
It's top quality / top spec oil, just packaged and marketed for farmers who are tight fisted bastids, but wouldn't put any old crap in their very expensive, hard working equipment, upon which their liveleyhood depends.

http://www.ovoline.co.uk/ovoline/pdf/agricultural.pdf

here is the spec sheet
 
These guys do oil change kits for reasonable money, might be worth a look as they are a lot cheaper than the Shell oil

Opie Oils

If you can afford it go for the Motul

cheers
right ok cant buy shell from any local motor factors so where can i buy it they have unipart fully synthtic oil at £32 for 5 litres what you think
 
right ok cant buy shell from any local motor factors so where can i buy it they have unipart fully synthtic oil at £32 for 5 litres what you think

Did that link not work cremator?

You can buy a service kit which comes with 8 litres of oil and an oil filter from opie oils for about £40

Get the Motul oil, it's a true synthetic thats a lot better than the unipart oil and will be perfect for your engine.

the opie oils website works the same as the lube advisor tools, just select your car from the list and it will automatically find the right oil and oil filter you need. It will give you a choice of oils but go for the Motul, it looks like a very good deal to me.

best regards
 
Did that link not work cremator?

You can buy a service kit which comes with 8 litres of oil and an oil filter from opie oils for about £40

Get the Motul oil, it's a true synthetic thats a lot better than the unipart oil and will be perfect for your engine.
yea worked ok will get that when you say true synthetic what are the other synthetic oils
 
yea worked ok will get that when you say true synthetic what are the other synthetic oils

there are a few different types of synthetic base oil

Castrol use hydrotreated mineral oil as their synthetic base oil and although it's very high performing it technically cant be called a synthetic because it is still based on mineral oil and is a lot cheaper to make than the true synthetics and generally don't perform as well. Shell make their oil from severly hydrotreated slack wax which is comparable in performance to the PAO synthetics used by Mobil

PAO is the base oil that Mobil and Motul and obviously others use and is a true synthetic oil as it's not derived from crude oil at all

ester is a higher performing base oil and is also used by Motul in some of their oils, it's polar so it's attracted to metal and is extremely high performing and is the only oil used in jet engine lubrication because of the stress and high heat

go with the Motul as it's definately one of the best
 
there are a few different types of synthetic base oil

Castrol use hydrotreated mineral oil as their synthetic base oil and although it's very high performing it technically cant be called a synthetic because it is still based on mineral oil

PAO is the base oil that Mobil and Motul and obviously others use and is a true synthetic oil as it's not derived from crude oil at all

ester is a higher performing base oil and is also used by Motul in some of their oils, it's polar so it's attracted to metal and is extremely high performing and is the only oil used in jet engine lubrication because of the stress and high heat
ah right thanks never new there was so much to oil so i am going to use motul 5w-30 service pack
 
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