Anyone used POR15 paint?

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LeadFarmer

LeadFarmer

Well-Known Member
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Yorkshure
Anyone used POR15 on their galv chassis? Im thinkin about painting my galv crossmember with it, but im not sure how it dries. Dont want it rubbing off on my trousers if I brush against it. Does it dry hard like paint, or remain tacky?
 
Dries hard as glass.

Why use it on a galvanised part??? POR15 is meant to be used directly on rusted parts that you can't really sand to the metal, works a treat.
 
Seriously, save your money and just coat it with Hammerite. POR-15 is overkill for the job, and it really needs a top coat to protect it from weather.
 
Kano said:
Dries hard as glass.

Why use it on a galvanised part??? POR15 is meant to be used directly on rusted parts that you can't really sand to the metal, works a treat.
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Wanting to try and hide the fact its a galv chassis. Also want to paint my galv tree sliders and galv front bumper to black. Heard that POR1 was a good product for working on galv.

Should I just hammerite them? Want something thats tough and not prone to sctatching off if possible.
 
you can paint galv i did my chassis but it will fall off eventually through the galv dissapating as it does while protecting steel ,
 
I have just used POR-15 on my newly shotblasted axles, trailing arms, radius arms and the finish is excellent i love it. I know it is expensive but I find it is worth it. 2 coats is enough but the seoind coat has to be applied before the first on has dried. It is true though if you dont seal the lid properly the paint will cure quickly. I had to make sure that the lid seals were free form paint but you can place some cling film over the opening and put the lid on. I will be rebuilind my landy in the next 2 weeks so I will provide photos of teh finish if you like?
 
dieselwheasel said:
I have just used POR-15 on my newly shotblasted axles, trailing arms, radius arms and the finish is excellent i love it. I know it is expensive but I find it is worth it. 2 coats is enough but the seoind coat has to be applied before the first on has dried. It is true though if you dont seal the lid properly the paint will cure quickly. I had to make sure that the lid seals were free form paint but you can place some cling film over the opening and put the lid on. I will be rebuilind my landy in the next 2 weeks so I will provide photos of teh finish if you like?
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NIce work. Photos would be good when ready:)

I know I have to apply a mordant solution such as T-wash to the galv prior to painting. Think I would prefer the black appearance rather than the siver galv that I have now. Just wish Id done the whole chassis before fitting:doh:
 
LeadFarmer said:
NIce work. Photos would be good when ready:)

I know I have to apply a mordant solution such as T-wash to the galv prior to painting. Think I would prefer the black appearance rather than the siver galv that I have now. Just wish Id done the whole chassis before fitting:doh:
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That would have certainly been easier. I galvanised my winch bumper and just bought some etch primer so that I could paint it with POR-15. Once that is done I will show some photos. I did think about doing my chassis but I figured you wont see most of it so I am not going to do it.
 
POR15 wont last on Galv unless you use the pre paint stuff from them too to etch the surface it will fall off after a while. Ideally POR15 is for surfaces with ATLEAST surface rust after been going over with a wire wheel,

If you want some good stuff use industrial Red Oxide ( Despite what you might think even marine red oxide is porus) then a couple of coats of industrial 2pack like they use on containers ;)
 
dieselwheasel said:
that would have certainly been easier. I galvanised my winch bumper and just bought some etch primer so that i could paint it with por-15. Once that is done i will show some photos. I did think about doing my chassis but i figured you wont see most of it so i am not going to do it.
Click to expand...

Just a small picture to show the finish of POR-15 on my bumper and this is quite rough to be honest. I used an etch primer prior to painting.

Aberdeenshire-20110316-00015[1].jpg
 
Last edited:
Looking good!

Did you have to overcoat the POR15? Had read that some of these special paints aren't UV stable, so can discolour.

Obviously not an issue if applied on the chassis!
 
I used this on a Galvo chassis:

http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/t/TORGALVPF/

I was initially a bit sceptical about it but it has turned out to be very good stuff and has keyed very well.

I put a couple of coats on it and still have plenty left. Dries with a mat finish so almost looks like an OEM chassis.

Minimal prep required, I just rubbed the whole chassis down well with coarse scotch bright then degreased it. Once the degreaser had flashed off I just painted it up.
 
Station House said:
Looking good!

Did you have to overcoat the POR15? Had read that some of these special paints aren't UV stable, so can discolour.

Obviously not an issue if applied on the chassis!
Click to expand...

From the research ive done, you can put a top coat of 'POR15 chassis coat black' on top of the POR15.
 
Station House said:
Looking good!

Did you have to overcoat the POR15? Had read that some of these special paints aren't UV stable, so can discolour.

Obviously not an issue if applied on the chassis!
Click to expand...

I didnt overcoat it at all, just used etch primer then slapped on the POR-15. Not really bothered if it discolours as it will probably get battered anyway, I just wanted to use up the remainder of my paint as it doesnt keep too long in the tin once opened.
 
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