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Freelander 1 anyone know what sockets for removing shafts?

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by wrxfifer, Jul 1, 2017.

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  1. wrxfifer

    wrxfifer Active Member

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    Hi folks so my plan was to maybe remove the shafts and vcu just until i can source another, have not done it yet obviously and you never know i might not and just replace it when i get another, however i believe its torque sockets either end to remove, and have just found a small set in my tool box so was hoping i had the sockets here! and dont have to go and buy any extra ones lol
    i have E6, E8, E10, E12, E14 AND E16
    so will these do or will i have to buy any additional sockets from halfrods?

    ta Grant
     
  2. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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    The first prop I removed I did it with hex sockets - but the underside of cars here are much less rusted and seized up that in UK.

    The bolts are not particularly big or small - so chances are you've got the right size. They are very accessible just to get under and see if you sockets will fit.

    Whether you should remove the props or not though is only dependant on your VCU and tyres. If your tyres are not identical or your VCU is giving a 1WUT of over 90 seconds the prop needs to come off. If the 1WUT is over 1 minute then you need to order a replacement VCU but are probably safe to drive the car until it arrives.

    Some confirmation or otherwise from others on that last bit would be welcome!
     
  3. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    The 6 front CV joint bolts have E8 heads and 13mm nuts.
    The 4 rear prop bolts use E12 bolt heads and 17mm nuts.
    When the 1 wheel up test starts showing over 1 minute. I theorize that the VCU is less able to deal with large tyre mismatches. So I believe a stiffening VCU with identical sized tyre is less damaging to the IRD, than a stiffening VCU and mismatched tyres. So going by my theory, a correctly functioning VCU will tolerate greater tyre mismatches, before damage is done.
     
  4. wrxfifer

    wrxfifer Active Member

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    and is the psi on all tyres supposed to be 37 all round did read somewhere?

    thanks for the info guys spot on as always!
     
  5. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    The factory recommend tyre pressure is 30 Psi. However I find running my 225/60/17 at 33 Psi makes them wear best.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2017
  6. wrxfifer

    wrxfifer Active Member

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    so its ok to run them maybe slightly different to spec for different tyres etc, as long as all are the exact same yes? 30psi seems really low does it not?
     
  7. wrxfifer

    wrxfifer Active Member

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    just double checked and all tyres are exact matching and all are 225/60/16 tyre pressure deff looks different in them they all seem ok but some look lower than others so better sort that out, will look the air compressor out tomorrow at some point and make them all the same around 30
     
  8. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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    So long as they are the same, that's the important thing for the preservation of the transmission.

    What they should be pumped to is dependent on the tyre manufacturer. LR will quote figures for the tyres originally supplied.
     
  9. wrxfifer

    wrxfifer Active Member

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    dam it forgot that i needed a socket for the hub nut, and dont think i have a socket that big!! what size is this 30mm roughly?
     
  10. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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    Off the top of my head, I think its 32mm. If the driveshafts have been replaced with aftermarket ones and hub nut - they can be different.
     
  11. wrxfifer

    wrxfifer Active Member

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    yeah a 32mm socket seems to fit thanks
     
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