Anyone do a lot of electronic type work?

Al2O3 · May 22, 2016

I was sold an older style 200Tdi galv bulkhead instead of a 300Tdi one. Not a lot of differences, to the untrained eye, so I didn't notice until it was painted, on the vehicle and I was fitting the harness.
Anyway, one issue is no holes in the door posts for the standard LR light switches. I reckon I can bond a micro switch in their place, similar to this one. LINKY However, I need push to break ones and I spent hours last night trying to find some. There are 'push button' types, but they look too long and I'm not sure they'll be up to the repetitive on and offs.
Is there anyone with an interest in electronics who knows a supplier that I have failed to find on google.
Or, an alternative switching system to create on the door.

In the meantime, I'm going to see if it's feasible to bond an original LR switch to the side of the door post and extend the push plate on the door. If it looks possible, this could be a fall back position if I can't find a push to break micro-switch. It won't look very neat and may well get kicked off.

brian47 · May 22, 2016

The switch in your link will do "push to break", in fact almost any similar micro-switch will.

If you look at the markings on the side of it, "C" is the common, "NC" is the normally closed and "NO" is normally open. For "push to break" you wire to "C" and "NC".

Alternately check out "courtesy light switch" on the bay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H1.Xcourtesy.TRS0&_nkw=courtesy+light+switch&_sacat=0

Flossie · May 22, 2016

I fitted genuine light switches to my galv and painted bulkhead. It's a square or rectangular hole and I just went slow and steady with a drill and file, stuck them in the 2nd row doors too.

Al2O3 · May 22, 2016

brian47 said:
The switch in your link will do "push to break", in fact almost any similar micro-switch will.

If you look at the markings on the side of it, "C" is the common, "NC" is the normally closed and "NO" is normally open. For "push to break" you wire to "C" and "NC".

Alternately check out "courtesy light switch" on the bay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H1.Xcourtesy.TRS0&_nkw=courtesy+light+switch&_sacat=0

That's why I needed help from someone who knows what they are talking about. Cheers,Brian. I bought some of these, then thought hold! They'll be push to make. So some are already on their way.

Flossie said:
I fitted genuine light switches to my galv and painted bulkhead. It's a square or rectangular hole and I just went slow and steady with a drill and file, stuck them in the 2nd row doors too.

I'm just paranoid about drilling holes through the galv, Flossie. Having spent over two years doing the rebuild, the thought of drilling holes in something I've paid a lot of money for fills me with dread.

Flossie · May 22, 2016

Yeah, I hear ya!
I also had to make more holes in the same area for the rubber frangers to carry the wiring from the door to A post for the central locking and electric windows. All post galv/paint. It's an area that doesn't suffer from rot so I decided to drill away. My B and C posts (110 sw) were also galvanised/painted and needed to be drilled, no rust in any of these areas 12 yrs on.
My only concern with what you are doing is the weather resistant properties of those switches?

Al2O3 · May 22, 2016

Yes, that might turn out to be a problem because these things aren't exactly weather proof. I'm hoping there's space to be able to fabricate a small box that it can be pushed in to. I could maybe put a rubber shroud over it.

Kwakerman · May 22, 2016

Drill the hole and do it properly, there will only be a small bare metal surface exposed, there is nothing stopping you painting of sealing it (POR15 / Hamerite or similar)

Al2O3 · May 22, 2016

Kwakerman said:
Drill the hole and do it properly, there will only be a small bare metal surface exposed, there is nothing stopping you painting of sealing it (POR15 / Hamerite or similar)

That might seem to be the rational thing to do, but I'm taking a paranoid approach to it. I could easily push my fingers through the door posts on my last bulkhead.

Kwakerman · May 22, 2016

Al2O3 said:
That might seem to be the rational thing to do, but I'm taking a paranoid approach to it. I could easily push my fingers through the door posts on my last bulkhead.

But how many years did it take to get to that condition plus it would have been plain old mild steel one with a naff paint job from the factory. If you drilled yours it would still 99.999999999999353% (approximately

) galvanised and the last 0.00000000000647% you can paint / seal yourself.

Al2O3 · May 22, 2016

That actually adds up!

I know, Kwakerman. I know it's not totally rational.
When I started taking it apart, it would have been about 18 yrs old. The door posts would have been well shot years before that though. So, in 10 yrs time I'd like to be thinking my door posts are still solid.

It's just me, mate.

jamesmartin · May 22, 2016

Al2O3 said:
That actually adds up!
I know, Kwakerman. I know it's not totally rational.
When I started taking it apart, it would have been about 18 yrs old. The door posts would have been well shot years before that though. So, in 10 yrs time I'd like to be thinking my door posts are still solid. It's just me, mate.

galv is a sacrificial coating even the unpainted will be protected from rot

Al2O3 · May 22, 2016

jamesmartin said:
galv is a sacrificial coating even the unpainted will be protected from rot

I know, but not as long as when totally covered.

brian47 · May 22, 2016

Kwakerman said:
If you drilled yours it would still 99.999999999999353% (approximately) galvanised and the last 0.00000000000647% you can paint / seal yourself.

That figure is of course dependent upon the size of the hole being drilled.

A splash of brush on "cold galv" to treat the edges of the holes before assembly might help, that's always assuming that the OP is prepared to "spike through" the painted surface to gain an earth connection. A "heavy" grease such as lanolin could be used to seal any connections after they've been made up.

The chances of any destructive corrosion being started by a courtesy light switch fitting is in my opinion minimal.

Anyone do a lot of electronic type work?

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

brian47

Well-Known Member

Flossie

Well-Known Member

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Flossie

Well-Known Member

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Kwakerman

Well-Known Member

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

Kwakerman

Well-Known Member

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

jamesmartin

Well-Known Member

Al2O3

Well-Known Member

brian47

Well-Known Member

Similar threads