anti freeze

metropolis2 · Dec 21, 2013

Hi all i have a 4.6 thor engined p38 what colour anti freeze should i use , it has blue in it at the moment but some people say it should be red some say blue , its had blue in it since the headgasket went, 2010, so should i keep to the same ?

Druim · Dec 21, 2013

metropolis2 said:
Hi all i have a 4.6 thor engined p38 what colour anti freeze should i use , it has blue in it at the moment but some people say it should be red some say blue , its had blue in it since the headgasket went, 2010, so should i keep to the same ?

just don't mix and it shouldn't matter, make sure it's suitable for engine, I use red

Thor1950 · Dec 21, 2013

metropolis2 said:
Hi all i have a 4.6 thor engined p38 what colour anti freeze should i use , it has blue in it at the moment but some people say it should be red some say blue , its had blue in it since the headgasket went, 2010, so should i keep to the same ?

Different brands have different color. Just make sure it is same type of coolant

martynv8 · Dec 21, 2013

You should use OAT only. Mine is red but i don't think colour is relevant.

gfromleeds · Dec 21, 2013

I use red just because I get it free from work

Was blue before I swoped water pump and rad (impeller came off pump and thought pinhole was in the rad) dident have any problems with the antifreeze and dont realy now (other than the pinhole I still cant find)
What happens if you mix them?

Bix · Dec 21, 2013

IIRC, blue generally means 1 - 2 years between changes and red is 5. But I don't know if that is universal or not.

gfromleeds · Dec 21, 2013

Just been googleing it the blue is short life 2years and cheeper, the red is long life 5years if you mix them thay weeken the mix down to around 1year so In that case the op hasent changed his blue (lasts for 2 years) in 3years
Best have a look at changing it before the cold really sets in

Freelaner · Dec 21, 2013

If you mix them they react with each other and make a sludge that blocks the cooling system

Datatek · Dec 21, 2013

Freelaner said:
If you mix them they react with each other and make a sludge that blocks the cooling system

And the red long life stuff will also turn to sludge all on it's own if left for too long

Freelaner · Dec 21, 2013

Datatek said:
And the red long life stuff will also turn to sludge all on it's own if left for too long

Not a problem most Landie owners will be presented with

gfromleeds · Dec 21, 2013

Freelaner said:
Not a problem most Landie owners will be presented with

mine has a constant ongoing fluid change as it drips about 1/4 pint a week
Can see it on the road on some mornings but damed if I can find were it coming from!
Strainge thing is it don't leak when warmed up!

StuckAgainSteve · Dec 21, 2013

gfromleeds said:
mine has a constant ongoing fluid change as it drips about 1/4 pint a week
Can see it on the road on some mornings but damed if I can find were it coming from!
Strainge thing is it don't leak when warmed up!

If it's a V8 - might be the water pump, you might not see the leak when hot as the drip might evaporate.

gfromleeds · Dec 21, 2013

No its diesel!
Its somewere to the back of the engine but cant find owt thats wet
Only leaks when cooling down never when running or cold just a small puddle in the morning or evening (when finnished work)

Grit Valve · Dec 21, 2013

gfromleeds said:
No its diesel!
Its somewere to the back of the engine but cant find owt thats wet
Only leaks when cooling down never when running or cold just a small puddle in the morning or evening (when finnished work)

Only things at the rear are heater matrix pipes and the rear metal cooling pipe that goes to the small u bend cool in hose

Heater Hose P38 BMW 2.5TD PCH000030 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.
Most likely this they rot through
Heater Pipe Metal 2.5 TD (Genuine) AWR2690 Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

gfromleeds · Dec 21, 2013

Yea ive replaced the u bend and still leaks so was suspecting the metal pipe but it feels dry and looks a right pain to change
Could it be escaping though the h/gasket or block?

Datatek · Dec 21, 2013

gfromleeds said:
Yea ive replaced the u bend and still leaks so was suspecting the metal pipe but it feels dry and looks a right pain to change
Could it be escaping though the h/gasket or block?

It's possible. Are there any core plugs at the back?

gfromleeds · Dec 21, 2013

Datatek said:
It's possible. Are there any core plugs at the back?

Not that ive seen
Its only a very small leak and have been tempted to just stick a radweld in but dont want to risk blocking the rad so for now im just living with it
Got a £5 bottle of ready mix 2.5l about a month back and im only half way down it so not really urgent

Freelaner · Dec 21, 2013

gfromleeds said:
Not that ive seen
Its only a very small leak and have been tempted to just stick a radweld in but dont want to risk blocking the rad so for now im just living with it
Got a £5 bottle of ready mix 2.5l about a month back and im only half way down it so not really urgent

don't use radweld

use k-seal

jamesmartin · Dec 21, 2013

Freelaner said:
don't use radweld

use k-seal

+1 fixed my rad for the time been

Freelaner · Dec 21, 2013

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