Another Whine

Even after pre-warming (5 or so mins on the drive) my Diesel SWB I now have a rather loud siren sound that starts after 5/6 mins of driving and lasts for nearly 10 minutes. The whine is hard to locate when driving and stops if you return to a standstill. After the 10 mins the sound stops suddenly, it does not tail off, it is a sudden stop.

I have recently adjusted the fan belt but the charge light isnt illuminated so I doubt that it is slipping (it was before the adjustment), I'm wondering if this could be related to a wheel bearing or somewhere else on the drivetrain.

Any suggestions or similar experiences?

hate to suggest something obvious / stupid... but it isn't at all relating to the fact that as its cold you have the heating on and its the fan being noisy? Mine can whine sometimes, but then will suddenly stop.

No problem at all with you suggesting that, do you mean the heater blower fan?

yeh, the heater blower fan

Mines only developed it this winter and it only last a few minutes before stopping whining, i was hoping it was just because it hadn't been used over the summer.

thinkin clutch release bearing sticking.
can you alter the noise by playing with the clutch?

Next time it does it, shift neutral and turn the engine off while still rolling, if it goes away then its most likely engine, if it carries on then its axles/drivetrain.

Well it's winter again and the noise has started again, now louder than ever. Over the last two weeks the sound has started again (I stress this is ear shaking loud) and usually starts 5 mins/2 miles(ish) after leaving home and then stops the after the first time I come to a halt at a junction, so that was something I could manage and deal with..

I did wonder if the cold weather might be something to do with it, perhaps a rear wheel bearing and the greese not getting warm enough from cold, but why would it drive OK until I get a little further from home?

This morning the noise started at the usual time/location but did not stop after I had got to a junction and at any speed above 22/24mph it starts and will not stop.

It had been my next job to check the oil levels in the front and rear diff's and also the gearbox but being a newbie at such things and not very mobile on my back (ie on a crawler) due to a long term medical issue its not something I want to spend hours on tomorrow if the likely problem isnt oil in the housings. As far as I know the oil in diff's and gb haven't been maintained in probably 10 years or more.

I have tried as dr pepper suggested and killed the engine during the noise but it continues, I have also given the brakes a good slam and activated the hand brake when stationery after one of the stops but still no joy.

If the suggested first thing to look at is the oil levels in the diff etc then does anyone have any really detailed pics of how I access the fill plugs, again I must seem very inept but I cannot seem to find anything obvious and easy to access after my look under the car today.

As usual, any assistance, comments (nice ones), suggestions or recommendations would be very much appreciated.

WellWhoKnows said:

As far as I know the oil in diff's and gb haven't been maintained in probably 10 years or more.
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this is the likely case oil in mine moves from box to box , so levels need checking every few weeks

if you search on here for manuals, use the link and find out where to top up everything then get about 6litres of EP90

Just as an update to all the helpful forum members..

Lola was diagnosed with a failed rear diff seal and that was booked in to be replaced, at the same time the garage recommended that the front propshaft was replaced or the UJ changed if possible, I need to stress that I have the benefit of a local 'old school' garage who are LR experts.

So £180 on Tuesday got me Lola back with the rear diff seal done, the front prop UJ replaced and loads of fluid pumped into not only the rear diff but also the transfer box, gearbox and front diff.

Unfortunately, the night after collecting the car and driving home I heard what can only be described as a spring twang and then suddenly there was a nasty rubbing, shaking fro the front underside, I turned round within yards and edged to the garage but when up on the ramp they could not see anything.

And now today.. started off from home, all doing well apart from a little bit of the rubbing noise underneath the front, the previous whine started but then stopped within seconds but then..(look away if you are someone of a sensitive nature) there was an almighty BANG followed by a lot of clanking.

I managed to bring the car to a stop in a safe area and checked that the new UJ was still in place, nothing else seemed to be hanging off so I turned around to take her home, all gears worked fine, all drive and steering worked well also.

I hope that I will not offend anyone by describing the resulting noise but it did sound like a skeleton having personal sexual enjoyment inside of a biscuit tin.

Going to put her on axle stands tomorrow and see what noise comes from rotating the front and then the rear.

Wish me luck eh!

Have you got it in four wheel drive (yellow lever pressed down) all the time?

WellWhoKnows said:

but then..(look away if you are someone of a sensitive nature) there was an almighty BANG followed by a lot of clanking.

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Mine made this noise for a while, when it kept dropping out of high box! Turns out a bolt was stopping the lever from going all the way.
Doubt its your problem but something to check?

Odd random nut or bolt in the flywheel/gearbox housing, hitting the clutch?

Could the initial noise have been the fan catching on the cowling / belt now too tight on the pulley affecting bearings?

Could be a tool left somewhere that dropped out? A ring spanner on a the back of a prop-shaft nut, very easy to forget things when the phones going and the kettles on!

Is it still making any kind of suspicious noise now?

Well after Lola being re-assessed it sounds very much like it’s a gearbox or transfer box problem and the garage has suggested a recon box. Looking into this and speaking to who they suggested GS Gears in Coventry the price of £450 + shipping both ways has put me off spending any more on this particular Series 3, I have another S3 already underway as well as a classic Mini for my better half and a recently purchased Disco to keep me mobile so I'm going to give it a go on eBay and hope that someone will be keen on sorting her out.

When I have listed the things done, the money spent and the blood spilt it seems awful but I think that you have to cut them free sometimes and let someone else have a go, other members may not agree but my technical abilities are limited as are my engineering capacity.

I would like to thank you all for your assistance, suggestions and help during this period.

James

It sounds like you've thought is through carefully. Anyway, you say you've got another Series 3 so having 2 is greedy anyway

Land Raver said:

It sounds like you've thought is through carefully. Anyway, you say you've got another Series 3 so having 2 is greedy anyway

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So after all that love and care I'm going to shoot for around a grand (collected) but I had huge fun doing it all so if anyone has any doubts about getting into the S3 game, I can only say that enjoy what you do!

I had a cash offer for Lola today, it wasn't a terrible offer but having sat down and listed for myself more than anyone all the work that I have done or had done I do wonder if I should push for a bit more, the list I have come up with so far is:

Electrical
• Headlight bowls replaced
• Headlights upgraded to Halogen (H4) via relay
• Existing Ralley 2000 front spotlights repainted and rewired to new relay system
• Indicator light fittings, bulbs and lenses renewed throughout
• Brake light fittings, bulbs and lenses renewed throughout
• Rear fog light added (switched from Aux. Panel)
• Reverse light added (switched from Aux. Panel)
• Rubberised twin rear work lights added (switched from Aux. Panel)
• “Hi-line” LED rear window brake light added
• LED hazard light system added, 3 modes with lights front and back
• Alternator refurbished (June 2011)
• 8 way additional blade fuse box
• Modified LR auxiliary dash switch panel with 8 switches + waterproof 12v supply (not connected)
• Waterproof 12v supply added to rear not connected
• Rear number plate bulbs replaced
• Drivers door interior automatic light switched added

Interior
• Replacement pedal rubbers
• Front 3 seats replaced with deluxe Exmoor trim vinyl
• Full chequer plate interior to rear tub, inside of driver and passenger doors and rear door.
• Genuine front door interior pull handles installed (becoming expensive to find)
• Rear spare wheel mount replaced with full fittings (not easy to find)

Running Gear
• All 5 tyres and wheels replaced
• Steering box joint replaced (June 2011)
• Front prop shaft UJ replaced (February 2012) – receipt included
• Rear differential seal replaced (February 2012) – receipt included

Bodywork
• Driver side window runners replaced.
• Top of passenger side door replaced (November 2011)
• Cracked rear side window replaced (August 2010)
• Fully repainted August 2010 in correctly custom mixed LR colours
• Front grill logo repainted
• Front bumper refitted with new bolts
• Front bull bar repainted
• Windscreen wiper blades replaced
• Passenger side under seat tool space refurbished
• Bonnet bump stops replaced
• Bonnet hinge bushes replaced

Chassis
• Rear cross member replaced (June 2011) – receipt included
• New rear springs installed (June 2011) – receipt included
• New fuel tank installed (September 2010)

Servicing
• Air intake hose replaced (July 2010)
• Fan belt replaced (April 2011)
• Rear half-shafts and differential checked (February 2012) – receipt included
• Differential and transmission fluids replaced (February 2012) – receipt included
• Air filter cleaned and refilled (January 2012)
• Breather cap cleaned and serviced (January 2012)


Does anyone have a view on what doing all this 'stuff' might add to the price of a pretty S3 or is it all academic as the transmission is seemingly buggered?

End of the Day it's a knackered pld series. most of what you've done lights etc won't register on a buyers list of things to be intrested in

Does it drive?

Is it rotten?

Are all the panels straight

I know what you mean by that, and that was the basis of my question:

Does it drive?
Yes but slowly with an interesting crunching sound!

Is it rotten?
No I have paid for all that do be done or done it myself

Are all the panels straight
Straight as I could get them