Another AC Question, Dealer is unable to find the problem

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SpacePig

New Member
Posts
393
Location
Tokyo - Japan
Hi

First of all, yes I searched (a bit) before, but neither the garage where I go or myself know why my AC does not work properly so I need help!

Symptoms
- in LO Mode air is not Freezing, it is cool but not amazingly cold (Outside temp 35 to 39)
- Start the car with previous Temp mode and it will be cold for 30 minutes at most before blowing regular air (not hot)
- Start playing with the AC Setting while cold and you loose Cool air and fan speed.
- Once cold air gone, switching off AC for a while seems to help
- Once cold air gone, stopping the car (quick ON/OFF) give 10 minutes of Cold air
- AC Seems to run "Better" on Highway in the city the AC struggle.

What the Garage did
- Changed Gaz
- Check pressure = OK
- Clutch is OK for them and engage like it should
- No error message anywhere
- No fuse are dead
- When cold air stop blowing and even if clutch is engaged pipe on compressor are not cold (one should be)
- Compressor "Seems" to work for them
- No leak whatsoever
- Car does not overheat (Cooling)


What they suggest
- Problem with Condenser (What they would like to change first to test and cheaper)
- Compressor problem

Now again, what surprised me today is that when I took the car back from them the AC was "OK" but not freezing at LO, but as soon as I changed Temp the Fan did not worked as fast and a change in 2 degrees just "Brake" the flow of cold air.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
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Hi

First of all, yes I searched (a bit) before, but neither the garage where I go or myself know why my AC does not work properly so I need help!

Symptoms
- in LO Mode air is not Freezing, it is cool but not amazingly cold (Outside temp 35 to 39)
- Start the car with previous Temp mode and it will be cold for 30 minutes at most before blowing regular air (not hot)
- Start playing with the AC Setting while cold and you loose Cool air and fan speed.
- Once cold air gone, switching off AC for a while seems to help
- Once cold air gone, stopping the car (quick ON/OFF) give 10 minutes of Cold air
- AC Seems to run "Better" on Highway in the city the AC struggle.

What the Garage did
- Changed Gaz
- Check pressure = OK
- Clutch is OK for them and engage like it should
- No error message anywhere
- No fuse are dead
- When cold air stop blowing and even if clutch is engaged pipe on compressor are not cold (one should be)
- Compressor "Seems" to work for them
- No leak whatsoever
- Car does not overheat (Cooling)


What they suggest
- Problem with Condenser (What they would like to change first to test and cheaper)
- Compressor problem

Now again, what surprised me today is that when I took the car back from them the AC was "OK" but not freezing at LO, but as soon as I changed Temp the Fan did not worked as fast and a change in 2 degrees just "Brake" the flow of cold air.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Are you running it in "Auto" mode? If so try it in manual. Could just be a duf sensor if there is no leak. Check the cabin temperature sensor fan is running, it's behind the grill by the clock. Other sensors could also affect it, for examole the matrix temperature sensor, need to look at the sensors on live data. That all assumes there is definately no leak and the compressor clutch is functioning.
 
Sounds to me like the refrigerant flow is being restricted and the lack of cooling is a pressure safety device operating, but I assume this would bring up a fault code

Could also be a lack of air moving across the condensing coil which would explain why it's better on the highway

I've never worked on car a/c accept my own but that might be worth checking
 
Sounds to me like the refrigerant flow is being restricted and the lack of cooling is a pressure safety device operating, but I assume this would bring up a fault code

Could also be a lack of air moving across the condensing coil which would explain why it's better on the highway

I've never worked on car a/c accept my own but that might be worth checking

Lack of air across the condensor could lead to engine overheating as it's in front of the engine cooling RAD but worth checking that the aircon fans work.
 
Thanks Guys!

1. Faulty HEVAC? That what I though yesterday to, but It seems that the HEVAC is somehow newer than the car: Buttons do not show any damage of time and paint on the button is really white compare to the other buttons around

2. I tried both Auto and Manual, same thing. The compressor clutch is running no problem about that. I will check for the sensors (they will check). For the Cabin temp sensor can we hear it working if very close?

3. They checked everywhere and for them NO leak.

4. "Sounds to me like the refrigerant flow is being restricted and the lack of cooling is a pressure safety device operating". Indeed it seems that something "Cut off" the cooling at some point... No errors anywhere.

5. Will check the Air con fads.

Thanks for the suggestions, please bring more!

Again this is "weird" problem and I do not want to change parts blind without being sure.
 
Update...

Just drove my daughter to summer school and when I came back the Fans (AC Fans in front of RAD) were working, as well as the AC at LO (but nothing really freezing)... I will see if the fans continue to work when the AC strop blowing Cold air.

Cheers
 
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So I get my car back, the AC is now working better (normally?) at least it is cold in the car now!

So what they did is to change the Condenser as well as the Receiver. I had a look at my hold condenser and beside being a insect cemetery there where no leak whatsoever.
 
I would also suspect a slipping clutch on the compressor.

Mine was working on and off, with very similar problems to yours and it turned out to be the clutch slipping.

Disassembling the clutch and giving it a good clean might help, you can also take the clutch off and remove a shim washer that will cure it for a bit because it reduces the air gap between the clutch plates a little bit.

RangeRovers.net have a little write up about it.
 
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I would also suspect a slipping clutch on the compressor.

Mine was working on and off, with very similar problems to yours and it turned out to be the clutch slipping.

Disassembling the clutch and giving it a good clean might help, you can also take the clutch off and remove a shim washer that will cure it for a bit because it reduces the air gap between the clutch plates a little bit.

RangeRovers.net have a little write up about it.

Thanks will see how it goes and if it does not work then... Will do as you says
 
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