Am I mad ??

Irishrover · Dec 8, 2012

After owning a P38 for more years than I can remember, a Classic and Disco before that-I have bought a 2002 TD4 Freelander for the right money. I could have had a V6 ES Premium with all the bells and whistles and went for a diesel ES instead with a couple of problems:
1.
Checked all the functions during a solo test drive and the windows worked a treat until the rear r.h. passenger window decided to go down then fail to rise. Remembering what I read on here, this is a common fault and needs a new regulator which the garage will fund.
2.
When I slow down and almost stop, it seems as though the brakes are sticking on, If I stop on a slope, the car doesn't roll back-just like an automatic !!-it also seems as though the brakes are pulling slightly to the left when applied sometimes.
3.
The electric sunroof doesn't work- no clicks etc. when the switch is depressed. Checked the fuse...OK.
4.
Slight whine from the back end-diff. ???
5.
Was parked up with the engine ticking over for about 25 mins. today, waiting for Er Indoors..when she turned up and I drove away, there was an almighty plume of smoke which cleared after a short while. Being a dedicated petrolhead I am not used to this !!
6.
Multidisc player seems dead, when I select CD on the head unit it says "No magazine" or similar, yet the magazine is in place, I can't eject it from the unit.

I guess that's enough for now but the car was supposed to have been serviced two days ago but the oil was still looking a bit on the black side. I know that this is common on diesels but any advice from you Guru's would be appreciated.

Singvogel · Dec 8, 2012

OK mate,

Here we go -

Item1. Yes get a new regulator fitted.

Item2. The brakes are deffo crap - garage should fix that too.

Item3. Pass.

Item4. Check VCU mounts/support bearings. Could well be the diff - LR give no mileage for changing the oil - no drain plug even! Use a syringe to replace oil with fully synth.

Item 5. Check the pcv and replace with the BMW cyclone vortex plastic unblockable part if it's not already been upgraded. With engine ticking over, take out the dipstick slowly - there should be no evidence of pressure or oil coming up the pipe. If you use supermarket diesel - don't - especially Morrisons.

Item 6. You could change oil and the next day it will be jet black - no worries there about the colour at least.

As you say - that should be enough to be going on with.

Oh - and your not mad - leastways no more than any of us here on the Freelander section.

Singvogel.

Irishrover · Dec 8, 2012

Singvogel said:
OK mate,

Here we go -

Item1. Yes get a new regulator fitted.

The deal was they would supply the regulator for self fit which doesn't bother me-all being well that should arrive next week.

Item2. The brakes are deffo crap - garage should fix that too.

Could this be related to a potential VCU problem ??

Item3. Pass.

Item4. Check VCU mounts/support bearings. Could well be the diff - LR give no mileage for changing the oil - no drain plug even! Use a syrnge to replace oil with fully synth.

Will do. I plan to get the car up in the air next week when we get back from our trip down to the Midlands

Item 5. Check the pcv and replace with the BMW cyclone vortex plastic unblockable part if it's not already been upgraded. With engine ticking over, take out the dipstick slowly - there should be no evidence of pressure or oil coming up the pipe. If you use supermarket diesel - don't -especially Morrisons.

I did pull the stck out to check the oil condition with the engine idling and yes, the oil did come up the dipstck tube and overflow. How do I tell whether it's been updated ?

Item 6. You could change oil and the next day it will be jet black - no worries there about the colur at least.

I remember, a few years ago, doing an oil change on a buddies P38 BMW diesel, flushed, changed the filter etc. 4 times. Put the new oil in after replacing the filter yet again and it was spotless. A week later he told me that the oil was as black as it had always been !!! Guess it's a diesel thing.

As you say - that should be enough to be going on with.

Singvogel. [/quote

:behindsofa: Appreciated

Singvogel · Dec 8, 2012

Your number one urgent priority is to change the pcv - it cannot have been upgraded and it is blocked creating pressure in the crankcase. This causes smoke and can damage turbo seals etc.

You MUST fix it soon as. I wouldn't even drive the car to the nearest BMW agent to get the part.

You need BMW Part Nr. B11.12.7.799.367 they call it an 'Oil Separator'. It costs £23.35 inc. VAT.

The original LR part is a tampon like cotton thing which chokes up. Get rid asap or it will seriously damage your wallet!

A failing or even fecked VCU should not prevent the car rolling backwards on a slope with the steering wheel straight ahead.

SV.

Irishrover · Dec 8, 2012

Singvogel said:
Your number one urgent priority is to change the pcv - it cannot have been upgraded and it is blocked creating pressure in the crankcase. This causes smoke and can damage turbo seals etc.

You MUST fix it soon as. I wouldn't even drive the car to the nearest BMW agent to get the part.

You need BMW Part Nr. B11.12.7.799.367 they call it an 'Oil Separator'. It costs £23.35 inc. VAT.

The original LR part is a tampon like cotton thing which chokes up. Get rid asap or it will seriously damage your wallet!

A failing or even fecked VCU should not prevent the car rolling backwards on a slope with the steering wheel straight ahead.

SV.

:behindsofa:

Thanks very much for your input...appreciated.

I will indeed get that Beemer part and get it changed a.s.a.p.

The engine seems to be driving fine otherwise. I picked the car up from outside Bradford yesterday, filled her up and have done 250 miles plus since then on half a tank, which after driving a 4.6, V8 is marvellous !!
We have to drive from the Midlands to N. Wales tomorrow (Approx. 150 miles) and will get one early next week.
Is there any other jobs that may be related which I can or should do whilst I am waiting for the part ?

Thanks Bud :tea:

Singvogel · Dec 8, 2012

There's lots of things to check -

EGR - clean and de-activate or by-pass.
Turbo Hoses - check for splits.

With a blocked pcv you need to keep the revs down.

The worst that can happen is the pressure will build up enough to wreck the turbo seals and/or the dip-stick will blow out and you loose most of the lub-oil.

Go gently mate - don't rev it hard.

Good luck.

SV.

Irishrover · Dec 8, 2012

Thanks for the advice SV.
I must admit I am a Greenhorn on these "Tractor engines"

..looks like I have a bit of learning to do !!!

I have to get the car back home 'cos that's where all my tools etc. are.
The car has full history from new but obviously, in my opinion that counts for nothing otherwise the problem would not have arisen had the filter and engine breather perfomance been checked.
I haven't driven it above 3500 rpm and will take your advice and take it easy going home.
I have no intention of trying to beat speed records in the Freelander- We have, or Er Indoors has, a Vectra V6 petrol which is the machine for that !!!

Brack · Dec 9, 2012

Yes ....should have gone for a special K

You bought this after all those questions about what to look for

Irishrover · Dec 9, 2012

Brack said:
Yes ....should have gone for a special K

You bought this after all those questions about what to look for

Yep suppose so.
I really wanted a V6 but decided to go for the diesel given all the tales of woe that I had heard about the petrol.
Obviously I had a budget to work to and a car to trade in. This motor was at the limit of that budget.
The mechanical bits don't bother me, but I am no expert on diesel engines having never owned one before.
I have stripped and rebuilt many petrol engines over the years from a Minii to several V8's.
I am down in the midlands at the moment and don't have access to my RAVE disc.

Still...Onwards & Upwards I suppose !!!!

Vertuas · Dec 9, 2012

Is the hand break sticking on?

My freelander had issues with the handbrake sticking on. This went on for some time and was worse in winter when the drums where cold and damp.

The drums needed stripping and cleaning out regularly.

Since the shoes where changed, the issue has gone away. Personally, I think it was caused by cheap break shoes, turning to powder.

Irishrover · Dec 9, 2012

Vertuas said:
Is the hand break sticking on?

My freelander had issues with the handbrake sticking on. This went on for some time and was worse in winter when the drums where cold and damp.

The drums needed stripping and cleaning out regularly.

Since the shoes where changed, the issue has gone away. Personally, I think it was caused by cheap break shoes, turning to powder.

:behindsofa:

Thanks for your input.........I have felt the drums and they are not excessively hot. However, some over zealous person (Not me !!) has adjusted the handbrake to 1 notch which is not enough. One of the first jobs when I get home is to get the wheels off and check all the pads, shoes and calipers for free operation & condition. I will slacken the handbrake adjuster off to give me 3-4 notches whilst I am at it. I will also change the PCV as a matter of urgency-I have ordered one up.
We are back down to the Midlands in a week or so and I will contact Bell Engineering for them to give the VCU and transmission the once over.

Singvogel · Dec 9, 2012

Just be sure to get the BMW bit and not another cotton pull-through from LR.

The engines are sound and the probs are created by folks who neglect them!

The pcv wasn't/isn't even on the service schedules, and the upgraded cyclone part was introduced after BMW had sold the company on.

LR never did and doesn't even now stock the upgraded part.

I think we'll be hearing from you frequently over the coming weeks.

Enjoy!

Singvogel.

Irishrover · Dec 9, 2012

Singvogel said:
Just be sure to get the BMW bit and not another cotton pull-through from LR.

The engines are sound and the probs are created by folks who neglect them!

The pcv wasn't/isn't even on the service schedules, and the upgraded cyclone part was introduced after BMW had sold the company on.

LR never did and doesn't even now stock the upgraded part.

I think we'll be hearing from you frequently over the coming weeks.
You can bet on that
:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi

Enjoy!

Singvogel.

:behindsofa:

Thanks SV.....Yes, going for the BMW.
There is a warranty on the car, valid nationally but I imagine there will be a limit on the total claim costs ( I haven't got the policy document yet-it's being posted to me), but the leaflet I have with the policy no. mentions single claims limit of £500. I don't want to claim unless there is something hefty crops up, I don't mind getting my hands dirty and sorting the low cost bits out...at least I know the jobs will be done right.
As a matter of interest, the history shows all services from new are as per the schedule and the last "Full ???" service was done 3000 miles ago. The book has been stamped by main stealers and by an independant for the last 4 years.

I will keep you guys informed and on the ball, after all, someone else may be as mad as me....keeps me busy in retirement though !!

Nodge68 · Dec 9, 2012

Irishrover said:
Yep suppose so.
I really wanted a V6 but decided to go for the diesel given all the tales of woe that I had heard about the petrol.
Obviously I had a budget to work to and a car to trade in. This motor was at the limit of that budget.
The mechanical bits don't bother me, but I am no expert on diesel engines having never owned one before.
I have stripped and rebuilt many petrol engines over the years from a Minii to several V8's.
I am down in the midlands at the moment and don't have access to my RAVE disc.

Still...Onwards & Upwards I suppose !!!!

I've a V6 which has had a replacement engine but I would probably have nothing tbh. The V6 drives like no other Freelander!! It's so smooth and the engine is almost inaudible except for a quiet hum. The tails of woe are normaly due to simple lack of maintenance or weekly under bonnet checks. The first time the HG went was in mine the previous owner didn't check the water level so it airlocked. The water was being lost due to a split in the header tank. I bought the car with HGF and did the work. Unfortunately the new stat I fitted failed closed allowing the engine to overheat causing HGF again

It now has a replacement engine and another new stat. So far all is well

As for your brakes. All you need to do to check them is go for a drive at 50 for a couple of miles avoiding using the brakes then allowing the car to coast to a stop as much as possible. If the wheel hubs feel hot then the brakes are dragging!! If they are working correctly the wheels will be cold.

Brack · Dec 9, 2012

Irishrover said:
Yep suppose so.
I really wanted a V6 but decided to go for the diesel given all the tales of woe that I had heard about the petrol.
Obviously I had a budget to work to and a car to trade in. This motor was at the limit of that budget.
The mechanical bits don't bother me, but I am no expert on diesel engines having never owned one before.
I have stripped and rebuilt many petrol engines over the years from a Minii to several V8's.
I am down in the midlands at the moment and don't have access to my RAVE disc.

Still...Onwards & Upwards I suppose !!!!

I'm sure you'll have a good one there bud ...

Irishrover · Dec 9, 2012

:behindsofa:

Update.....Got home o.k. without any problems. Checked the oil before I started off and it was a bit low on the dipstick-just over the low mark. Topped it up and off we went. I filled her up at Portmadog and I have done 440 miles since I picked the car up. There was enough fuel to get me home but I hate running a car on a quarter tank or less. It's the first car I have had where I have got over 400 miles from a full tank...never did it with the P38, 4.6 :hysterically_laughi
Having read the info. on the Bell Eng. website, I feel that the VCU COULD be the cause of the braking problem as the symptoms look very similar, especially when reversing. I am still going to give the complete braking system a thorough going over this week-they have forecast dry, sunny but chilly the early part of the week here-as I need to isolate a brake fault from the equation. Next job will be fitting the Beemer PCV, giving the EGR and ancillaries a good clean etc., as per the brilliant sticky on the forum. Will blanking the EGR affect the MOT ?? (No doubt this has already been done to death on the forum

)
Thanks anyway guys for all your replies..appreciated.
Watch this space for updates..........

Am I mad ??

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

Singvogel

Well-Known Member

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

Singvogel

Well-Known Member

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

Singvogel

Well-Known Member

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

Brack

Well-Known Member

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

Vertuas

Active Member

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

Singvogel

Well-Known Member

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

Nodge68

Well-Known Member

Brack

Well-Known Member

Irishrover

Well-Known Member

Similar threads