Alternator not charging! Defender TD5 2004

Mornin all,

So the other night, the Speedo and headlights wouldn’t work, then the car wouldn’t start. After charging the battery up, it was once again starting fine and dash/headlights operational.

My alternator is not charging and could this be that it is not exciting? I was testing the wire between the alternator and then I checked the battery voltage again and it started showing 13.5 volts on the multimeter (engine still running). However, once I turned off the engine off and back on again the voltage from the battery was showing 12.7. Ever since, there are no signs of the alternator charging the battery.

the connection between wire from the starter to alternator looks corroded on the alternator end.

if a kind soul could please help me out with this, it would be greatly appreciated!

Many thanks!

Does the charge warning light show on the dash?

kermit_rr said:

Does the charge warning light show on the dash?

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Charge light is on then turns off when the car is started

The alternator will provide around 14V if it is working correctly and the battery is in good condition.
To get the alternator to 'start charging' it needs to see above 10V on the small connector on the back, check here to see you have a + voltage with the ignition on (1) and when the engine is ticking over (2).
You can also check the voltage on the large connector when the engine is revving around 2000rpm - this should be close to 14V
Red lead of your voltmeter on the connectors and black lead on the engine block.
Check the voltages again with the black lead on the bulkhead

Let us know what the voltages are.

miktdish said:

The alternator will provide around 14V if it is working correctly and the battery is in good condition.
To get the alternator to 'start charging' it needs to see above 10V on the small connector on the back, check here to see you have a + voltage with the ignition on (1) and when the engine is ticking over (2).
You can also check the voltage on the large connector when the engine is revving around 2000rpm - this should be close to 14V
Red lead of your voltmeter on the connectors and black lead on the engine block.
Check the voltages again with the black lead on the bulkhead

Let us know what the voltages are.

Click to expand...

Okay dokay, this sounds good! Thanks very much for the help, I’ll be back shortly with the voltages. Do you just poke your multimeter needle into the plug on the back of the alternator to test the smaller wires?

[GALLERY=][/GALLERY]

Same issue here. The warning signs were slow movement of the windscreen wipers (and then a weird slow transition between the full beam and standard head lights).

Nevertheless, hope you manage to resolve the issues.

Just be careful you don't slip and short to ground with your multimeter probe

While you're at it, check for AC voltage across the battery terminals. Anything more than a few mV is bad

simondance said:

Same issue here. The warning signs were slow movement of the windscreen wipers (and then a weird slow transition between the full beam and standard head lights).

Nevertheless, hope you manage to resolve the issues.

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I’ll keep posting updates! Hope you get it sorted.

kermit_rr said:

Just be careful you don't slip and short to ground with your multimeter probe

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Haha I will try my best:/

miktdish said:

The alternator will provide around 14V if it is working correctly and the battery is in good condition.
To get the alternator to 'start charging' it needs to see above 10V on the small connector on the back, check here to see you have a + voltage with the ignition on (1) and when the engine is ticking over (2).
You can also check the voltage on the large connector when the engine is revving around 2000rpm - this should be close to 14V
Red lead of your voltmeter on the connectors and black lead on the engine block.
Check the voltages again with the black lead on the bulkhead

Let us know what the voltages are.

Click to expand...

Voltage from the plug with ignition on
Voltage from the plug with engine ticking over

voltage from bigger lead that goes to the starter


hopefully you can see the voltages on the meter in the pictures. I tried my best to get the probe into that plug.

With the engine off, take the skinny wire off, turn ignition on them check the end for a voltage

kermit_rr said:

With the engine off, take the skinny wire off, turn ignition on them check the end for a voltage

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Okay will try that now, cheers

kermit_rr said:

With the engine off, take the skinny wire off, turn ignition on them check the end for a voltage

Click to expand...

kermit_rr said:

With the engine off, take the skinny wire off, turn ignition on them check the end for a voltage

Click to expand...

have you got any tips please on how to remove that plastic plug at the back cos I’m really struggling to get it off

200tdi Land Rover 90 said:

View attachment 276561
have you got any tips please on how to remove that plastic plug at the back cos I’m really struggling to get it off

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No clue sorry

With that big fat wire that's attached to the alternator with a large nut, it's worth taking it off and cleaning up the mating faces on the ring terminal and on the alternator terminal itself. I have found on a couple of occasions that this has solved poor charging on my TD5. When it's getting corroded it is hard to tell from inside the cab because the warning light in the instrument panel is fed from one of the wires on the multiplug, rather than the big wire, so everything looks fine and it creeps up on you.

I'm not saying that's definitely the problem, but it's worth a try, and is a lot cheaper than a new alternator!

p.s. You've got very clean hands for a Land Rover owner.

Brown said:

With that big fat wire that's attached to the alternator with a large nut, it's worth taking it off and cleaning up the mating faces on the ring terminal and on the alternator terminal itself. I have found on a couple of occasions that this has solved poor charging on my TD5. When it's getting corroded it is hard to tell from inside the cab because the warning light in the instrument panel is fed from one of the wires on the multiplug, rather than the big wire, so everything looks fine and it creeps up on you.

I'm not saying that's definitely the problem, but it's worth a try, and is a lot cheaper than a new alternator!

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Sorry mate, I’ve only just seen this! Didn’t get notified for some reason! Thanks for the advice. The nut on the big wire is so corroded, I think it’ll snap the bolt if I go too hard. However, I got the plug off and sprayed everything with contact cleaner and toothbrushed it (not my current toothbrush) as well as the nut. Thankfully it’s all sorted now. On the plus side, I’m much more competent using a multimeter now.

Brown said:

p.s. You've got very clean hands for a Land Rover owner.

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Those photy’s were taken after my lunch break