Alternator Issues

YorkshireSteve · Mar 17, 2009

Hi All,

After my sunday morning abuse, I think my alternator is poorly. The battery light is on and it the battery went flat on me on Sunday (I lost all speed and fuel dials, indicators etc!). It's had a good charge and seems OK now. I reckon it just needs a good stip and clean, but that's easier said than done when I can't get the bugger out!

I finally got everything disconnected last night (including the arse of a plug in the back!), but there wasn't space to actually get it out of the engine bay. There's either down, where all the radiator pipes are, or up, past the radiator. The alternator is about an inch too big to come out, no matter how I wiggle the fooker...

Anyone else had the pleasure of doing this, and if so, have you got any tips?

Also, there's no oil in the thing. Didn't notice until I went to give it a service last night. Would this have anything to do with the battery light? The reason I ask is that there are oil pipe thingies going into / through the alternator.

Griffdowg · Mar 17, 2009

are you sure they are oil pipes? is it not the pipes for the vacuum pump. It is a TD5 you have Steve?

G

YorkshireSteve · Mar 17, 2009

Griffdowg said:
are you sure they are oil pipes? is it not the pipes for the vacuum pump. It is a TD5 you have Steve?

G

*shrugs*

Yeah, it's a TD5 but not sure what the 'oily pipe things' are! There are three though - one with a bolt with a hole in it, going to the vacuum pump thing, then two go off somewhere into the engine and are held on with some clips. I'll upload a pic in a minute if I can get it off my phone.....

YorkshireSteve · Mar 17, 2009

I've annotated the picture, but there's a third pipe just out of view to the top left which is almost the same as the one on the right.

Griffdowg · Mar 17, 2009

Im not familiar with TD5's sorry Steve, but i think im right in saying your vac pump lives behind your alt and works from there, i dont believe there is any oil wirling around your alternator. Sounds like it needs a good clean anyhow and maybe a new bearing on the pulley if its sounding rough.

I see shifty is in here, he knows what he's talking about and should shed some light

G

discomania · Mar 17, 2009

IIRC it has an oil feed (in/out) and vaccum pipe... the vac and alt are on the same pulley i.e same part.

http://www.famousfour.co.uk/images/parts/ff000795.jpg

YorkshireSteve · Mar 17, 2009

Aye, that's the fecker! So what does the oil feed do then, and could the fact I'm out of oil be causing my issues?

Shifty1962 · Mar 17, 2009

The oil feed is for the vac pump bearing.
Sorry for the quick reply but on way out and running late.

Shifty1962 · Mar 17, 2009

The vac pump can be separated from the alternator by undoing the four small bolts on the front face of the alternator (from memory 10mm). This will give you more room to manouvre the alternator out. Be careful of the radiator fins.
The vac pump bearing should not be dry as otherwise it will not last very long.

sypher · Mar 17, 2009

As shifty said it can be removed , the oil pipes supply oil ( funny that ) to lube the vanes inside the vac pump , when you unbolt it from the alternater you should see a bit of oil on the shaft but NONE inside the alternater itself .

YorkshireSteve · Mar 17, 2009

Cheers for the feedback everyone, I'll retry it at the weekend

YorkshireSteve · Mar 20, 2009

Took the fecker apart again this evening, and still no way out. Took some pics of it so you can all share my pain (and make suggestions to get it out!)

Shifty1962 · Mar 20, 2009

Okey dokey.

Undo the EGR cooler (the long silver cylindrical thingy in the first picture) and that should give you enough room to get the bugger straight up and out.
Fit an EGR blanking plate to the exhaust manifold.
Plug the vacuum lines and unplug the loom to the EGR valve vacuum actuators. This makes the ECU think that EGR is not fitted but if you leave then plugged in the ECU tries all sorts of things to compensate.
When you have more time take the EGR valve off, have a look at the crap it has been dumping into your engine. Get an EGR replacement piece and dump the EGR valve, vacuum actuators, cooler etc. because you dont need them.

CharlesY · Mar 20, 2009

Chances are the alternator isn't working well because the carbon brushes are filthy with mud, or worn out because of running when muddy and gritty. Alternators are meant to be cooled by fresh air, not by muddy water.

Clean the slip-rings, make sure the brushes reach the slip-rings and aren't jammed.

New brushes might be needed.

CharlesY

YorkshireSteve · Mar 20, 2009

Shifty1962 said:
Undo the EGR cooler bolts (the long silver cylindrical thingy in the first picture) and that should give you enough room to get the bugger straight up and out. Throw it away and fit an EGR blanking plate to the exhaust manifold.

So that's what's stopping it.... Damn thing! I've been meaning to get a blanking plate for a while! Am I likely to get hold of one on a Saturday morning?

Shifty1962 said:
Plug the vacuum lines.

What do you mean by that? To stop it dribbling while I'm working on it? Or permanently?

CharlesY said:
Alternators are meant to be cooled by fresh air, not by muddy water.

CharlesY

So that's where I've been going wrong!

Going to give it all a good clean when it's out... Had to do the starter motor not long since and the winch motor the other week. Maybe I should just avoid the dirty water next time!

Shifty1962 · Mar 21, 2009

If you can do basic metal work you can make your own.
Get a piece of steel apprx 4mm thick (if its too thin it will eventually burn thorough) big enough to cover the hole.
Draw round the flange from the flexible pipe that you remove.
Shape and drill it (files, grinder, drill, etc.) and bolt it on with some exhaust sealer paste as a gasket or use some silicone sealant. Job done.

If you are only removing the cooler then you can leave the vacuum stuff alone but if you remove the vacuum actuators you will need to plug the vacuum lines otherwise your brake servo wont work. You will have to join the two cooling hoses together. My TD5 did not have an EGR cooler so I did not have to mess about with these.

Make sure you unplug the vacuum actuator plugs if you are not putting the EGR cooler and pipe work back.

I strongly recommend you get an EGR valve replacement piece and remove all traces of the EGR gubbins as it is not needed. Your engine will run better and be more responsive and it has no noticable effect on engiine emmissions. My TD5 sailed through its MOT with no EGR stuff and the mechanic even offered to buy it.

TD5Alive! Td5 EGR Bypass Kit - Performance Diesel Tuning for most modern Cars and Vans.

YorkshireSteve · Mar 21, 2009

Nice one Shifty, ta you very much...

I'll get the alternator out this morning, stick everything back together and then get a proper replacement kit ordered and do the job properly.

Off to it then I guess......

Shifty1962 · Mar 21, 2009

There are other kits available on eBay but this is where I got mine from and its a good bit of kit. Well made.

YorkshireSteve · Mar 21, 2009

Yeah, there's usually a reason why somethings £5 and the next is £50... I don't believe in buying cheap crap!

OK, anyway, alternator is out and was easy enough once I've removed the EGR jobby.

Problem is, I can't get in to the sodding thing! I don't think I'm being lame here, but they don't make it easy! I've got everything off, but can't seem to seperate the two parts of the casing. They will split by about 1mm all the way round, but without apply excessive force they aren't going to come undone? Any ideas? (more pics attached)

Crazy thing is the Haynes book of lies says the starter motor overhaul is a job for a 'professional' (which was a piece of **** really), yet it has a good section on renewing alternator brushes and stuff! Grrrrrr @ it!

YorkshireSteve · Mar 21, 2009

Scratch that last post - there are bushes on the second picture, right in the middle. I recon these are going to be the issue.....

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