Alternative to spanners

J

JD

Guest

• Jul 25, 2004

• #21

Austin Shackles wrote:

> On or around Sun, 25 Jul 2004 11:01:31 +0100, Tim Hobbs
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 10:47:44 +0100, "Larry" <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>I took the plunge and bought an angle grinder, hope it is easier to use
>>>than a hacksaw.
>>>
>>>Only trouble is I have to run a long extension lead
>>
>>Martyn will be along shortly to check you have all the safety kit.
>>
>>Seriously, it's a very dangerous tool (probably as bad as anything
>>else you can own). I hate mine, and in fact only recently realised it
>>was nicked in a car break-in over a year ago.
>>
>>Blimey, I sound like my Dad!
>
> they are dodgy if misused. safety goggles, even if you wear specs, are
> very
> much recommended. If you wear specs, you'd be unlikely to get sparks in
> yer eye, but they're a bloody sight more expensive to replace.
>
> the really nasty bit is when you do something that snags it and breaks the
> disc, fortunately this is rare.
>
And never, Never, NEVER use it without the guard. The owner of the rural
supply store near here had a disc break and hit him in the face a few years
ago. An inch lower and it would have got him in the throat .........
Later that day there were farmers all through the area putting the guards
back on.
JD

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Jul 25, 2004

• #22

On or around Sun, 25 Jul 2004 11:01:31 +0100, Tim Hobbs
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 10:47:44 +0100, "Larry" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>I took the plunge and bought an angle grinder, hope it is easier to use than
>>a hacksaw.
>>
>>Only trouble is I have to run a long extension lead
>
>Martyn will be along shortly to check you have all the safety kit.
>
>Seriously, it's a very dangerous tool (probably as bad as anything
>else you can own). I hate mine, and in fact only recently realised it
>was nicked in a car break-in over a year ago.
>
>Blimey, I sound like my Dad!

they are dodgy if misused. safety goggles, even if you wear specs, are very
much recommended. If you wear specs, you'd be unlikely to get sparks in yer
eye, but they're a bloody sight more expensive to replace.

the really nasty bit is when you do something that snags it and breaks the
disc, fortunately this is rare.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Remember that to change your mind and follow him who sets you right
is to be none the less free than you were before."
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus (121-180), from Meditations, VIII.16

 

B

Bill Holt

Guest

• Jul 26, 2004

• #23

In message <[email protected]>, Larry <[email protected]>
writes
>I took the plunge and bought an angle grinder, hope it is easier to use
>than a hacksaw.

Am I the only person in the world who is trying to find a decent, cheap
battery powered grinder?

Just before Texas DIY closed down I bought one and several batteries. It
has been absolutely marvellous for small jobs on boats and on trailers
in fields. It cost something like £12 so I can't really complain that
all the batteries seemed to die simultaneously just after Christmas last
year.

A search of the local stores throws up nothing. A search of the 'net
yields one at about £100, which seems a lot of money for a cheap motor,
a small metal guard and a battery.
--
Bill Holt

 

P

Peter

Guest

• Jul 29, 2004

• #24

EMB <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

> Use the discs designed for stainless steel when cutting/grinding the
> high-carbon stuff - they seem to last longer.

Ta. I'll look for those.

> Breaking cutting discs is operator error

Sssh! I don't need *everybody* else knowing that! <G>

> - hang onto the grinder well
> and don't twist the disc in the cut.

....and make sure the workpiece can't move either.

> The thin discs are awesome - much easier on the grinder. If you
> buy really good quality ones they seem to last okay but they are still
> expensive (I buy them by the box of 100 for the equivalent of about a
> quid each). What do you call expensive for the flap discs? Here they
> run about 3 quid a go.

They're especially nice on stuff you don't want a large HAZ on. The
Machine Mart ones come out at about 76p each in qty 10. The last flap
discs came out at about £6 per, which I thought was excessive given
the short life of them. I keep looking at the part-worn belts off my
belt grinder and wondering what I can do with a pair of scissors...
So who in the UK is good for abrasives? Cromwell?

> > Buffers get my vote as a more dangerous tool.
>
> Yep - how often has the thing you're working on been snatched out of
> your hand and tossed against the wall or across the workshop?

Once. And that was quite enough thank you. Buffing blades may be
faster, but hand rubbed is (generally) safer.

Peter

 

S

Simon Barr

Guest

• Jul 26, 2004

• #25

In article <[email protected]>, SimonJ wrote:
>> Much easier. I just removed the super doopa tow bar the AA fitted to my
>> 110 at the weekend as I want to paint and waxoyl the rear crossmember.
>>
>> Without an angle grinder I would have been lost.
>>
>> 8 x M16 bolts.......
>
> What the hell were you thinking of towing, the Titanic?
>
>

As well as the dixon bate adjustable towhitch which accounts for 4 there are
tow jaws left and right as well as all the associated braketry and plates
etc.

You can just make it all out here

http://www.sbarr.demon.co.uk/110/imagepages/image14.html

I got a list of what was fitted to it by special vehicles and its listed
as something like an AA special dixon bate towbar.

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

 

T

Tom Woods

Guest

• Jul 27, 2004

• #26

On 26 Jul 2004 10:36:59 GMT, Simon Barr <[email protected]> wrote:

>On the POR 15 tin there is a sticker warning that you can't get dry POR
>off you skin. Don't ignore the warning, they really mean it!!!

It takes about 2 weeks to wear off..

Also, if you get it on the floor or the drive it doesnt come off
either.

 

B

Bill Holt

Guest

• Jul 27, 2004

• #27

In message <[email protected]>, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> writes
>On or around Mon, 26 Jul 2004 17:46:14 +0100, Bill Holt
><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>
>>Am I the only person in the world who is trying to find a decent, cheap
>>battery powered grinder?
>>
>>Just before Texas DIY closed down I bought one and several batteries. It
>>has been absolutely marvellous for small jobs on boats and on trailers
>>in fields. It cost something like £12 so I can't really complain that
>>all the batteries seemed to die simultaneously just after Christmas last
>>year.
>>
>see if you can get the battery packs apart, chances are you can replace the
>cells. If they're quick-charge NiCads, you need the expensive sintered
>ones, or you'll risk a nasty poisonous (very) mess, if you use orindary ones
>with a fast charger and the overheat too much.
>
>alternatively, you might be able to use lead/acid gel batteries instead.
>
Hmmm, I did get a 7.2volt battery pack apart. It seems that in all of
them one or more cells has oozed and there is extensive corrosion around
the heat-sensitive switch. This might be more bi-metallic corrosion
rather than the result of the ooze.

I have got some Ni-Mh batteries of just above the right size, so I'm
thinking that I might make a holder for these (the fragile plastic and
spring holders I've used in the past have been hopeless) and put some
sort of socket on the bottom of the now-empty battery pack. A flying
lead to the new belt-worn battery pack would probably just about work
OK.

But it makes me tired just thinking about it, so I was really hoping
someone would say something like "Look out for the SuperDevil 24volt
Grindermaster Deluxe - a fiver from Lidl", but no-one has....
--
Bill Holt

 

T

Tim Hobbs

Guest

• Jul 25, 2004

• #28

On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 10:47:44 +0100, "Larry" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I took the plunge and bought an angle grinder, hope it is easier to use than
>a hacksaw.
>
>Only trouble is I have to run a long extension lead

Martyn will be along shortly to check you have all the safety kit.

Seriously, it's a very dangerous tool (probably as bad as anything
else you can own). I hate mine, and in fact only recently realised it
was nicked in a car break-in over a year ago.

Blimey, I sound like my Dad!
--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
'95 Discovery V8i aka "The Disco" (FOR SALE)
'03 Volvo V70

My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com

 

N

Nikki Cluley

Guest

• Jul 26, 2004

• #29

in article [email protected], Simon Barr at [email protected] wrote
on 26/7/04 11:36 am:

> In article <[email protected]>, Larry wrote:
>> I took the plunge and bought an angle grinder, hope it is easier to use than
>> a hacksaw.
>>
>
> Much easier. I just removed the super doopa tow bar the AA fitted to my
> 110 at the weekend as I want to paint and waxoyl the rear crossmember.
>
> Without an angle grinder I would have been lost.
>
> 8 x M16 bolts
> 6 x M10 bolts
> 4 x M8 bolts
>
> None of which would come undone. The angle grinder made short work of it.
> Spent most of yesterday scraping rust off the crossmember and tow bar
> fittings.
>
> I've now painted what I can get at of the crossmember with POR15 and it
> seems like pretty good stuff, I'm going to overcoat the bits on show with
> hammerite smooth.
>
> On the POR 15 tin there is a sticker warning that you can't get dry POR
> off you skin. Don't ignore the warning, they really mean it!!!

Bruce's came in very usefull the other day when cutting off the rear fold
up step which refused to stay up. Goggles are essential as bits of metal in
your eyes aren't very nice.
--
Nikki

1990 Discovery V8i
1985 Range Rover V8
1975 88" Series III 2.25 petrol
1979 Series III Lightweight 2.25 petrol