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Larry

Guest
I took the plunge and bought an angle grinder, hope it is easier to use than
a hacksaw.

Only trouble is I have to run a long extension lead

--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holesdown three flights of steps.



 
On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 10:47:44 +0100, "Larry" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>I took the plunge and bought an angle grinder, hope it is easier to use than
>a hacksaw.
>
>Only trouble is I have to run a long extension lead


Martyn will be along shortly to check you have all the safety kit.

Seriously, it's a very dangerous tool (probably as bad as anything
else you can own). I hate mine, and in fact only recently realised it
was nicked in a car break-in over a year ago.

Blimey, I sound like my Dad!
--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
'95 Discovery V8i aka "The Disco" (FOR SALE)
'03 Volvo V70

My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com
 
On or around Sun, 25 Jul 2004 11:01:31 +0100, Tim Hobbs
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 10:47:44 +0100, "Larry" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>I took the plunge and bought an angle grinder, hope it is easier to use than
>>a hacksaw.
>>
>>Only trouble is I have to run a long extension lead

>
>Martyn will be along shortly to check you have all the safety kit.
>
>Seriously, it's a very dangerous tool (probably as bad as anything
>else you can own). I hate mine, and in fact only recently realised it
>was nicked in a car break-in over a year ago.
>
>Blimey, I sound like my Dad!


they are dodgy if misused. safety goggles, even if you wear specs, are very
much recommended. If you wear specs, you'd be unlikely to get sparks in yer
eye, but they're a bloody sight more expensive to replace.

the really nasty bit is when you do something that snags it and breaks the
disc, fortunately this is rare.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Remember that to change your mind and follow him who sets you right
is to be none the less free than you were before."
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus (121-180), from Meditations, VIII.16
 
Needs must I am afraid, once I get rid of those stubborn screws and nuts,
and put new ones in, I will be a lot better off.

Of course I will wear goggles, ear defenders, and a mask.

Screwdrivers can be dangeros too, how many times do the slip and stab your
fingers.


--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes

"Tim Hobbs" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 10:47:44 +0100, "Larry" <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> >

> Martyn will be along shortly to check you have all the safety kit.
>
> Seriously, it's a very dangerous tool (probably as bad as anything
> else you can own). I hate mine, and in fact only recently realised it
> was nicked in a car break-in over a year ago.
>
> Blimey, I sound like my Dad!
> --
>
> Tim Hobbs
>
> '58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
> '77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
> '95 Discovery V8i aka "The Disco" (FOR SALE)
> '03 Volvo V70
>
> My Landies? http://www.seriesii.co.uk
> Barcoding? http://www.bartec-systems.com
> Tony Luckwill web archive at http://www.luckwill.com



 
On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 14:47:03 +0100, "Larry" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Needs must I am afraid, once I get rid of those stubborn screws and nuts,
>and put new ones in, I will be a lot better off.


Put copper grease on the new ones too!. I recently had to grind a bolt
off my landy, and it was a nice new one i put on when i rebuilt it a
few years back. I copper greased most of mine and they are still nice
any easy to get off when i have to :)

 
On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 15:08:57 +0100, Tom Woods <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 14:47:03 +0100, "Larry" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>Needs must I am afraid, once I get rid of those stubborn screws and nuts,
>>and put new ones in, I will be a lot better off.

>
>Put copper grease on the new ones too!. I recently had to grind a bolt
>off my landy, and it was a nice new one i put on when i rebuilt it a
>few years back. I copper greased most of mine and they are still nice
>any easy to get off when i have to :)


Or use stainless nuts and bolts :D

Alex
 
Austin Shackles wrote:

> On or around Sun, 25 Jul 2004 11:01:31 +0100, Tim Hobbs
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 10:47:44 +0100, "Larry" <[email protected]>
>>wrote:
>>
>>>I took the plunge and bought an angle grinder, hope it is easier to use
>>>than a hacksaw.
>>>
>>>Only trouble is I have to run a long extension lead

>>
>>Martyn will be along shortly to check you have all the safety kit.
>>
>>Seriously, it's a very dangerous tool (probably as bad as anything
>>else you can own). I hate mine, and in fact only recently realised it
>>was nicked in a car break-in over a year ago.
>>
>>Blimey, I sound like my Dad!

>
> they are dodgy if misused. safety goggles, even if you wear specs, are
> very
> much recommended. If you wear specs, you'd be unlikely to get sparks in
> yer eye, but they're a bloody sight more expensive to replace.
>
> the really nasty bit is when you do something that snags it and breaks the
> disc, fortunately this is rare.
>

And never, Never, NEVER use it without the guard. The owner of the rural
supply store near here had a disc break and hit him in the face a few years
ago. An inch lower and it would have got him in the throat .........
Later that day there were farmers all through the area putting the guards
back on.
JD
 
In article <[email protected]>, Larry wrote:
> I took the plunge and bought an angle grinder, hope it is easier to use than
> a hacksaw.
>


Much easier. I just removed the super doopa tow bar the AA fitted to my
110 at the weekend as I want to paint and waxoyl the rear crossmember.

Without an angle grinder I would have been lost.

8 x M16 bolts
6 x M10 bolts
4 x M8 bolts

None of which would come undone. The angle grinder made short work of it.
Spent most of yesterday scraping rust off the crossmember and tow bar
fittings.

I've now painted what I can get at of the crossmember with POR15 and it
seems like pretty good stuff, I'm going to overcoat the bits on show with
hammerite smooth.

On the POR 15 tin there is a sticker warning that you can't get dry POR
off you skin. Don't ignore the warning, they really mean it!!!

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.
 
> Much easier. I just removed the super doopa tow bar the AA fitted to my
> 110 at the weekend as I want to paint and waxoyl the rear crossmember.
>
> Without an angle grinder I would have been lost.
>
> 8 x M16 bolts.......


What the hell were you thinking of towing, the Titanic?


 
In article <[email protected]>, SimonJ wrote:
>> Much easier. I just removed the super doopa tow bar the AA fitted to my
>> 110 at the weekend as I want to paint and waxoyl the rear crossmember.
>>
>> Without an angle grinder I would have been lost.
>>
>> 8 x M16 bolts.......

>
> What the hell were you thinking of towing, the Titanic?
>
>


As well as the dixon bate adjustable towhitch which accounts for 4 there are
tow jaws left and right as well as all the associated braketry and plates
etc.

You can just make it all out here

http://www.sbarr.demon.co.uk/110/imagepages/image14.html

I got a list of what was fitted to it by special vehicles and its listed
as something like an AA special dixon bate towbar.

--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.
 
In message <[email protected]>, Larry <[email protected]>
writes
>I took the plunge and bought an angle grinder, hope it is easier to use
>than a hacksaw.


Am I the only person in the world who is trying to find a decent, cheap
battery powered grinder?

Just before Texas DIY closed down I bought one and several batteries. It
has been absolutely marvellous for small jobs on boats and on trailers
in fields. It cost something like £12 so I can't really complain that
all the batteries seemed to die simultaneously just after Christmas last
year.

A search of the local stores throws up nothing. A search of the 'net
yields one at about £100, which seems a lot of money for a cheap motor,
a small metal guard and a battery.
--
Bill Holt
 
On or around Mon, 26 Jul 2004 17:46:14 +0100, Bill Holt
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>In message <[email protected]>, Larry <[email protected]>
>writes
>>I took the plunge and bought an angle grinder, hope it is easier to use
>>than a hacksaw.

>
>Am I the only person in the world who is trying to find a decent, cheap
>battery powered grinder?
>
>Just before Texas DIY closed down I bought one and several batteries. It
>has been absolutely marvellous for small jobs on boats and on trailers
>in fields. It cost something like £12 so I can't really complain that
>all the batteries seemed to die simultaneously just after Christmas last
>year.
>
>A search of the local stores throws up nothing. A search of the 'net
>yields one at about £100, which seems a lot of money for a cheap motor,
>a small metal guard and a battery.


see if you can get the battery packs apart, chances are you can replace the
cells. If they're quick-charge NiCads, you need the expensive sintered
ones, or you'll risk a nasty poisonous (very) mess, if you use orindary ones
with a fast charger and the overheat too much.

alternatively, you might be able to use lead/acid gel batteries instead.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Festina Lente" (Hasten slowly) Suetonius (c.70-c.140) Augustus, 25
 
On 26 Jul 2004 10:36:59 GMT, Simon Barr <[email protected]> wrote:

>On the POR 15 tin there is a sticker warning that you can't get dry POR
>off you skin. Don't ignore the warning, they really mean it!!!


It takes about 2 weeks to wear off..

Also, if you get it on the floor or the drive it doesnt come off
either.
 
In message <[email protected]>, Austin Shackles
<[email protected]> writes
>On or around Mon, 26 Jul 2004 17:46:14 +0100, Bill Holt
><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>
>>Am I the only person in the world who is trying to find a decent, cheap
>>battery powered grinder?
>>
>>Just before Texas DIY closed down I bought one and several batteries. It
>>has been absolutely marvellous for small jobs on boats and on trailers
>>in fields. It cost something like £12 so I can't really complain that
>>all the batteries seemed to die simultaneously just after Christmas last
>>year.
>>

>see if you can get the battery packs apart, chances are you can replace the
>cells. If they're quick-charge NiCads, you need the expensive sintered
>ones, or you'll risk a nasty poisonous (very) mess, if you use orindary ones
>with a fast charger and the overheat too much.
>
>alternatively, you might be able to use lead/acid gel batteries instead.
>

Hmmm, I did get a 7.2volt battery pack apart. It seems that in all of
them one or more cells has oozed and there is extensive corrosion around
the heat-sensitive switch. This might be more bi-metallic corrosion
rather than the result of the ooze.

I have got some Ni-Mh batteries of just above the right size, so I'm
thinking that I might make a holder for these (the fragile plastic and
spring holders I've used in the past have been hopeless) and put some
sort of socket on the bottom of the now-empty battery pack. A flying
lead to the new belt-worn battery pack would probably just about work
OK.

But it makes me tired just thinking about it, so I was really hoping
someone would say something like "Look out for the SuperDevil 24volt
Grindermaster Deluxe - a fiver from Lidl", but no-one has....
--
Bill Holt
 

"Larry" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Needs must I am afraid, once I get rid of those stubborn screws and nuts,
> and put new ones in, I will be a lot better off.
>
> Of course I will wear goggles, ear defenders, and a mask.


Grinding can be really hot work. Also wear a very strong pair of gloves, ie
Rigger Gloves and long sleeves. With sparks flying everywhere you will get
burnt on any area of exposed skin. This includes the wrists, arms, neck and
face.
As someone who uses an Angle Grinder, almost, daily, I would also recommend
that you take off the fitted plug on your extension lead and fit a combined
plug and RCD. Costs 7 - 9 quid from B&Q, but will save you from a big jolt
if you accidentally cut the cable. This is even more important if you have a
DIY machine that runs on 240V. Not necessary if you have a 110V pro job, but
then you will have a transformer with a built in RCD anyway.

Hope you find that useful and happy grinding. Those B*****D screws deserve
nothing less.

Jase


 
Tim Hobbs <[email protected]> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...

> Seriously, it's a very dangerous tool (probably as bad as anything
> else you can own). I hate mine, and in fact only recently realised it
> was nicked in a car break-in over a year ago.


I used my cheap one so much I let the smoke out, so decided to replace
it with a rather nice 900W DeWalt. It had better last at least 3x the
B&Q junk one it supersedes...

I use my grinder when I'm playing at blacksmithing, primarily. I tend
to use a lab coat, welders apron, welding gloves, mask, safety goggles
*and* a visor. The thing I probably ought to add to that is a hat -
I've had a few occasions where I've ended up with hotspots on my head
and the smell of burning hair. I frequently use mine on high-carbon
steels, and the sparks tend to go on a bit longer than mild.

Using them with cutting discs, they'll freqently grab on the sides of
the disc, which can result in disc fractures or jumping; wire brushes
are a liability at those speeds; grinding discs are heavy - which is a
consideration when they break. I quite like the thin "plasma cut"
discs from Machine Mart, but they wear down much more quickly and are
much more fragile. I'm also fond of the zirconium flap discs for
general clean up, but they are hellishly expensive.

Buffers get my vote as a more dangerous tool.

Peter
 

Jase <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> >
> > Of course I will wear goggles, ear defenders, and a mask.

>
> Grinding can be really hot work. Also wear a very strong pair of gloves,

ie
> Rigger Gloves and long sleeves. With sparks flying everywhere you will get
> burnt on any area of exposed skin. This includes the wrists, arms, neck

and
> face.


The gloves are a seriously essential piece of kit - I keep the heavy leather
gardening gloves I used to use as a "reminder" of just how easy it would be
to do yourself a SERIOUS injury - the left index finger is *nearly* cut thro
from a slipping grinder. Better the glove than me, and without the glove I'd
be minus a finger for sure!

If you're working anywhere near the fuel lines, be super-careful too. I've
also got a piece of metal fuel line with a nice nick in it from a slipping
grinder.

Dangerous hobby!!

Mike.


 
I nearly cut a finger off sharpening a sickle once, didn't bother going to
casualty though, just bound it up very tightly and it healed OK :)

I also managed to saw into my wooden draining board while using it as a
makeshift bench while using a jigsaw.

Guess I ought to practice on something relatively safe before getting into
any tight corners


--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes


"Mike Buckley" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> Jase <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > > Of course I will wear goggles, ear defenders, and a mask.

> >
> > Grinding can be really hot work. Also wear a very strong pair of gloves,

> ie
> > Rigger Gloves and long sleeves. With sparks flying everywhere you will

get
> > burnt on any area of exposed skin. This includes the wrists, arms, neck

> and
> > face.

>
> The gloves are a seriously essential piece of kit - I keep the heavy

leather
> gardening gloves I used to use as a "reminder" of just how easy it would

be
> to do yourself a SERIOUS injury - the left index finger is *nearly* cut

thro
> from a slipping grinder. Better the glove than me, and without the glove

I'd
> be minus a finger for sure!
>
> If you're working anywhere near the fuel lines, be super-careful too. I've
> also got a piece of metal fuel line with a nice nick in it from a slipping
> grinder.
>
> Dangerous hobby!!
>
> Mike.
>
>



 
Peter wrote:


> I use my grinder when I'm playing at blacksmithing, primarily. I tend
> to use a lab coat, welders apron, welding gloves, mask, safety goggles
> *and* a visor. The thing I probably ought to add to that is a hat -
> I've had a few occasions where I've ended up with hotspots on my head
> and the smell of burning hair. I frequently use mine on high-carbon
> steels, and the sparks tend to go on a bit longer than mild.


Use the discs designed for stainless steel when cutting/grinding the
high-carbon stuff - they seem to last longer.

>
> Using them with cutting discs, they'll freqently grab on the sides of
> the disc, which can result in disc fractures or jumping; wire brushes
> are a liability at those speeds; grinding discs are heavy - which is a
> consideration when they break. I quite like the thin "plasma cut"
> discs from Machine Mart, but they wear down much more quickly and are
> much more fragile. I'm also fond of the zirconium flap discs for
> general clean up, but they are hellishly expensive.


Breaking cutting discs is operator error - hang onto the grinder well
and don't twist the disc in the cut. I get a lot of amusement out of
new apprentices shattering discs until they work out what they're doing
wrong. The thin discs are awesome - much easier on the grinder. If you
buy really good quality ones they seem to last okay but they are still
expensive (I buy them by the box of 100 for the equivalent of about a
quid each). What do you call expensive for the flap discs? Here they
run about 3 quid a go.


> Buffers get my vote as a more dangerous tool.


Yep - how often has the thing you're working on been snatched out of
your hand and tossed against the wall or across the workshop?

--
EMB
change two to number to reply
 
On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 15:08:57 +0100, Tom Woods <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Sun, 25 Jul 2004 14:47:03 +0100, "Larry" <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>Needs must I am afraid, once I get rid of those stubborn screws and nuts,
>>and put new ones in, I will be a lot better off.

>
>Put copper grease on the new ones too!. I recently had to grind a bolt
>off my landy, and it was a nice new one i put on when i rebuilt it a
>few years back. I copper greased most of mine and they are still nice
>any easy to get off when i have to :)


Or use stainless nuts and bolts :D

Alex
 
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