Alternative method to bleed cooling system?

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Steviecops

Steviecops

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I changed my header tank today for one of the white after market ones. Managed to save most of my coolant, but ran into iroblems when trying to top up and bleed the system. The plastic plug on the radaitor came out OK, but the one on the thermostat housing wasn't coming out. I tried all sorts and eventually buggered it up with a big pair of grips. I'll get round to replacing it soon enough, but I needed an alternative method to bleed the system.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1348669236.515048.jpg
Did this.....
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1348669265.174122.jpg
And this, to top up the system from its highest point.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1348669318.635221.jpg
Did much squeezing of top hose as I was topping up and thus is where everything levelled up to. Gave it a run and all appears OK. Is there anything else I should/could have done? Does that coolant level in the header tank look right?

Thanks
Steve
 
Steve, I was given a tip by a retired LR workshop foreman for bleeding system.
Leave the cap OFF the header tank and just let the car run for about 10 minutes.
keep the heater on to allow circulation through.
Water level in tank should just cover the indicator(which is a b----- to see.)
I used this method when I replaced the old header tank.
good luck, and come back and let us know how you get on

cheers

jim A
-------------------------------
1996 300 TDi auto(Jap reimport)
 
Thanks Jim, that sounds like a good tip. I can't see any level mark on the header tank. Roughly how far up should it be? (So I have half a clue where to look!) After several short runs, the coolant has levelled out about an inch below the bottom of the filler neck. That's a bit higher than it was before I changed the tank, but then, with the thermostat housing plug in so tight, maybe the mechanic who did my timing belt didn't bleed the system properly and the level settled lower?
 
If your white header is like mine you have to lean right over the fillhole and look down and back a bit. Little plastic piece sticks up from the bottom.
Coolant should just coverr this when cold. In your photo your level looks too high. Nowhere to go when really hot with expansion.

cheers
Jim A
------------------------
1996 300Tdi auto(Jap reimport)
 
I agree, it does look high compared to what it was before i changed the tank. Just wondering whether I should take some coolant out, but it found its own level when I filled it up through the thermostat housing. If I drain it down, won't that leave the thermostat housing empty? Confused!
 
Fit a brass household radiator bleed plug to the thermostat housing, and a blank plug to the radiator (size 1/2" BSP), then you can bleed her whilst the system is warm ;)

images
 
Steviecops said:
I agree, it does look high compared to what it was before i changed the tank. Just wondering whether I should take some coolant out, but it found its own level when I filled it up through the thermostat housing. If I drain it down, won't that leave the thermostat housing empty? Confused!
Click to expand...

Your coolant level is too high. Use a syringe or suction pipe to take the level down to the middle seam of the header tank. Then run the engine with the header tank cap off for ten mins and top up to the seam if necessary.

Keep a close eye on it over the next few days. Btw you can use domestic radiator brass or chromed 1/2" blanking plugs to replace the LR black plastic ones.
 
Thanks for the great advice. :). Have syphoned coolant level to half way and run for 10 minutes with cap off. All appears well.

I need this car for work, so can't afford any sudden or catastrophic failures. There is rust staining on the block that indicates the P gasket has leaked at some point, but it's always dry when I look. The water pump gasket looks new, from the bit that I can see, which might indicate the work has been done. But I bought this car with no service history, so is the water pump and P gasket something I should change a a matter of course, or are they things I can keep my eye on? I don't mind doing preventative maintenance.
 
Last edited:
Hello mate, i have just done all of mine as a matter of 'not sure what last owner had done' thingy.. I am pretty sure that header tank unit should be just over the half way seal mark, say no more that 5mm, also i had put new gaskets on thermo, water pump and P gasket. they are all quite simple to do mate, the thermostat one has got the four bolts on, if you undo the bottom 2 bolts only half way and take the top two out the unit will pull up and out for fitting of new gasket. The other two are a bit more tricky taking of the water pump and pulleys and power steering pump etc etc, but you can do it.. As for the bleeding, seems like you done it all proper. Any more help needed just ask..
 
Steviecops said:
I changed my header tank today for one of the white after market ones. Managed to save most of my coolant, but ran into iroblems when trying to top up and bleed the system. The plastic plug on the radaitor came out OK, but the one on the thermostat housing wasn't coming out. I tried all sorts and eventually buggered it up with a big pair of grips. I'll get round to replacing it soon enough, but I needed an alternative method to bleed the system.
View attachment 35884
Did this.....
View attachment 35885
And this, to top up the system from its highest point.
View attachment 35886
Did much squeezing of top hose as I was topping up and thus is where everything levelled up to. Gave it a run and all appears OK. Is there anything else I should/could have done? Does that coolant level in the header tank look right?

Thanks
Steve
Click to expand...

Oh also should of said, SNAP, my plastic stop broke leaving half in, i had to slowly chip the remainder out and replace with a brass one, I, Like you said left in, but the next day under pressure water started coming out of the left over bit of plastic.. All the best.
 
AdeDiscoKid said:
Hello mate, i have just done all of mine as a matter of 'not sure what last owner had done' thingy.. I am pretty sure that header tank unit should be just over the half way seal mark, say no more that 5mm, also i had put new gaskets on thermo, water pump and P gasket. they are all quite simple to do mate, the thermostat one has got the four bolts on, if you undo the bottom 2 bolts only half way and take the top two out the unit will pull up and out for fitting of new gasket. The other two are a bit more tricky taking of the water pump and pulleys and power steering pump etc etc, but you can do it.. As for the bleeding, seems like you done it all proper. Any more help needed just ask..
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. I'll definitely replace the water pump, P gasket and thermostat as preventative maintenance. At least then I'll know when they were done. I did the same with the timig belt when I first got the motor. I'll also replace those plasic plugs with the brass ones. Got such a long list of things to do, but I'm getting there slowly. :)
 
Steviecops said:
Thanks for that. I'll definitely replace the water pump, P gasket and thermostat as preventative maintenance. At least then I'll know when they were done. I did the same with the timig belt when I first got the motor. I'll also replace those plasic plugs with the brass ones. Got such a long list of things to do, but I'm getting there slowly. :)
Click to expand...

Same as that Steve, slowly slowly catchy monkey, so much to do, so little time, but i'm loving it, i hope you are to mate. Where about's in the country are you Steve. I am in Surrey.
 
AdeDiscoKid said:
Same as that Steve, slowly slowly catchy monkey, so much to do, so little time, but i'm loving it, i hope you are to mate. Where about's in the country are you Steve. I am in Surrey.
Click to expand...

Yes, I am. It makes a change to have a motor that you can work on! I'm in Colchester, Essex, mate.
 
A trick I use, after running when topped up, run the front up ramps for 5mins then down, and I find the air comes out of the system and your level drops in the header tank.
 
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