Air suspension problems.

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Blimey, don't think my little compressor will go that high!

Oh well, I'll try and get it above 50psi. It may even get close to 100psi.

Any idea why the compressor isn't coming on? Pressure switch failure, maybe? Thermal switch reading is "Normal" according to nanocom?

Cheers,

J
 
Blimey, don't think my little compressor will go that high!

Oh well, I'll try and get it above 50psi. It may even get close to 100psi.

Any idea why the compressor isn't coming on? Pressure switch failure, maybe? Thermal switch reading is "Normal" according to nanocom?

Cheers,

J

Might be the motor/brushes/bearing of the compressor. Obviously check relays & switches first. My compressor motor had slowly died (stopped coming on). Fitted a recon one, and happy days.
 
Blimey, don't think my little compressor will go that high!

Oh well, I'll try and get it above 50psi. It may even get close to 100psi.

Any idea why the compressor isn't coming on? Pressure switch failure, maybe? Thermal switch reading is "Normal" according to nanocom?

Cheers,

J

You will have maybe 60 PSI in rears and around 65 psi in fronts at normal ride height. You will never have anything like 145 PSI in bags unless the boot is full of block paving. That is just the reserve pressure.
 
Blimey, don't think my little compressor will go that high!

Oh well, I'll try and get it above 50psi. It may even get close to 100psi.

Any idea why the compressor isn't coming on? Pressure switch failure, maybe? Thermal switch reading is "Normal" according to nanocom?

Cheers,

J
Assuming no faults present, relay or fuse, if neither of those then the motor itself, brushes or seized bearing.
 
OK. SITREP.

Back wheels only need about 50psi to get them up! Good job I was keeping an eye on them! Fronts need about 60psi. Had a good spray with soapy water but couldn't see any leaks.

Took compressor apart (see pics). There's not a lot to go wrong apart from the brushes (look OK), some metal flappy valves near the outlet (the pump part!) and the rubber part on the piston. Couldn't see anything too wrong although one of the metal parts was slightly bent so straightened that out and gave everything a good clean. Reassembled and I have enough pressure to blow my thumb off the outlet so refitted.

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SITREP continued.

Once pump was back on I tried to see if it would work. Once again it failed to come on so I used the Nanocom to force it on. Once again the rear of the car went right up but the front failed to move. When I checked the valve status the rear valves were closed and the front were open. Sound right?

Here's a picture of what the Nanocom thought was going on and it seems to reflect reality. Note the rear way past target height and the front way under.

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Might be hard to see but the rear target is 105 and actual is in the 130s / 140s. The front target is around 120/130 and the actuals are 70/80ish.

I fiddled around for some time and then suddenly the rear dropped and the front rose and it ended up st standard ride height. It is almost as though there's a valve between front and rear and it isn't behaving itself.

I did manage to get her to extended ride height but only by forcing the pump on using the Nanocom.

After a bit more messing around the pump started coming on on its own again although there still seems to be some front / rear instability, although eventually it settled down to standard ride height. I've left her like that for now and will check in the morning to see if any corner looks low.

As a final check I checked for fault codes again. This came back several times with "Invalid Fault Code" (nice) but after a few attemps at clearing and rereading it just went back to no faults. All very strange.

By the way, I tried opening and closing valves using the Nanocom but nothing much seemed to happen. Is that normal? Nanocom deflates system OK though.

So, something odd still going on. Could the EAS outstation (under the driver's seat) be acting up?
 
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Surely if relay or fuse it wouldn't work when I trigger it with the Nanocom?

Yes, but I thought you had got to the stage where the pump would not run.
Sounds like you have either a connector problem in the EAS box, specifically the one under the valve block or the driver pack is on the blink.
 
Yes, but I thought you had got to the stage where the pump would not run.
Sounds like you have either a connector problem in the EAS box, specifically the one under the valve block or the driver pack is on the blink.

Driver pack has nothing to do with compressor Keith, not run by it or connected to driver pack.
 
I had a 94 hse in 97 for 4 years, now run a 90 defender xs and xvs convertible, no air bags as such! I gave up with the air suspension controller on the hse and made a four way manual controller, press one of the switches to either up or down the corner. I had paid just over £1800 to fix the problem which the land rover dealer could not fix, I'm sure if I gave them more money they could cure it.
 
I didn't say it had Tony, I was responding to the strange heights, maybe I didn't make that too clear:)

Oh ok sorry mate. May well be driver pack but signals from sensor seem a bit iffy. Have not used Nano for EAS to be honest. So don't know it's angle on things. It's no good having both front valves open of course if inlet valve is shut. If both front valves are open but inlet is shut looks like it was stuck in axle pressure equalisation mode. As when road speed drops below 1 mph. Hard to say really.
 
Inlet valve is open according to Nanocom.

Compressor runs if I trigger with Nanocom. Thermal switch shows continuity and reads as "Normal" in Nanocom.

Stuck in axel pressure equalisation mode sounds about right. How does that work? Car was standing still with engine running. Drive has a slight slope to it, maybe 10 degree decline.
 
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