P38A Air suspension newbie question and some other small niggles

Will have a look now. That's why I was going to get it plugged in and checked to get the fault codes properly read. Can your read the eas faults with rangie running otherwise it kills my battery

Leeg1987 said:

Will have a look now. That's why I was going to get it plugged in and checked to get the fault codes properly read. Can your read the eas faults with rangie running otherwise it kills my battery

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If reading faults and clearing with diag flattens your battery get a new one it's knackered.

Ordered a commercial battery today 130amp 1000cca should do the trick

Leeg1987 said:

Ordered a commercial battery today 130amp 1000cca should do the trick

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If it's full calcium make sure your alternator has at the very least 14.2 volts output. Preferably 14.5.

I run the MF31-1000 in my P38, and have done for the last 4 years. It's supposedly a Lead/Calcium battery - but seems to charge OK on the p38 system (just make sure all the power/ground wires are all up to scratch!)

On a few of the other points...
EAS inhibit - the BECM combines all the 'door ajar' switch signals, and the 'tailgate open' switch and sends that down one wire to the EAS ECU as a 'door open' inhibit line. This is a ground signal when any of the doors or tailgate are opened, otherwise it should sit at battery voltage. It runs from the BECM on C112 (16 way green connector on the front of the BECM) pin 3 - Purple/Orange wire over to the a splice which splits it to both the EAS ECU and the EAS delay/timer relay module. It could be worth looking under the passenger seat at the wiring to see if you can find the splice, or see if the wiring has been cut or damaged. If it's somehow become disconnected, then it will give the symptom you show as it will never pull the wire to ground. It could also be worth checking the pins on the green connector at the BECM. My mate had the problem on his P38 and the issue was found at the green connector where the pin had backed out of the connector a bit, so wasn't making proper connection.
As Wammers says - there is no option to turn it on or off in Nanocom or any other diagnostics.

Door locking etc - It sounds like the motors in the door latches have burnt out or otherwise failed. The L/H/R one might be a wiring thing as it runs directly from the BECM (though this is not likely to be the problem as from memory both rear doors are triggered from the same relay). The front doors... more than likely the motors there too. The fact that you can open the tailgate says that the Central Locking switch in the drivers latch is working - as the tailgate motor grounds through there. If the doors/mirrors all work in the front doors then the communications from the BECM to the front door outstations are all working ok - so it points to the latches being the culprit.

I refurbish door latches in my spare time and see a LOT (mostly fronts) where the motors have burnt out.

Hope this helps,
Marty

A lot to take in I managed to change my order and got the same battery you've just mentioned. I've fitted battery and done the emergency key thing and all is well now reset my eas again and now she's booked in to use a ramp to look for a oil leak. Looks like oil pipe that fits near oil filter

Found another symptom and I'm guessing it's probably the main fault. When car is parked engine not running the front passenger side drops to the lowest point all others stay at correct height

That sounds like one hell of a leak. Does it self-level when you leave the key in and in position 2? I'd be looking at the bag as a matter of urgency before the compressor burns out.

You can hear the air leaking out. Ordered 2 bags for the front look quite easy to change over. If weather is decent this weekend will have a look under and c how bad it is

Leeg1987 said:

You can hear the air leaking out. Ordered 2 bags for the front look quite easy to change over. If weather is decent this weekend will have a look under and c how bad it is

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I took out the wheel-arch liner on one side, driver's, I think. You don't need to but I found it made it a lot easier as I'd never done it before. Doesn't take long.

Found the leak

Leeg1987 said:

Found the leak

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I rather think that maybe causing a slight leakage of air.

No wonder he could hear it. Surprised the car wasn't cocking its rear leg like a dog.

Grrrrrr said:

No wonder he could hear it. Surprised the car wasn't cocking its rear leg like a dog.

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What i want to know is how something like that gets through an MOT test.

wammers said:

What i want to know is how something like that gets through an MOT test.

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Hidden under a fold? Or just ignorance of the workings of an air-spring?

Grrrrrr said:

Hidden under a fold? Or just ignorance of the workings of an air-spring?

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I think that or at least some of it would have been visible fully extended.

I could see some of the cracking but most was inwards and only be seen if under the car also didn't have any clips on the top . Was a pig to get the airline back in. Just other side to do now but looks like it has been replaced but doing it just in case then the water pump. What are worth a few little issues left to fix