Air spring replacement - spring clips

Now, I've been lurking a for a few weeks since getting my p38 and finally plucked up the courage to try and replace my air springs myself having read the various guides. However, as normal when I try to do any sort of DIY job I am stuck at the first hurdle...

I can't get the bottom clip out of the rear air spring, all I seem to have managed to do is bend it slightly and not really pull it out. Does anyone have any practical suggestions for removing these clips?

TIA.
James

jcborden said:

Now, I've been lurking a for a few weeks since getting my p38 and finally plucked up the courage to try and replace my air springs myself having read the various guides. However, as normal when I try to do any sort of DIY job I am stuck at the first hurdle...

I can't get the bottom clip out of the rear air spring, all I seem to have managed to do is bend it slightly and not really pull it out. Does anyone have any practical suggestions for removing these clips?

TIA.
James

Click to expand...

Take it you have alloy bosses and not the later plastic one's. Spray them with easit leave to soak and knock them loose with a punch. When you have them moving get hold with a pair of grips and twist them out.

Make sure you have new clips before starting job. Assume the old ones will be destroyed in removal process.

Thanks for the replies, just got myself a punch and have all new clips so after lunch (got to build myself up to these tasks) i'll be back out to try again.

Hi gents,
When I change air springs, I always start with new clips, give the old ones one tug, and if they dont go I use a cold chisel to snap them off at the base, easy.

wantaquad said:

Hi gents,
When I change air springs, I always start with new clips, give the old ones one tug, and if they dont go I use a cold chisel to snap them off at the base, easy.

Click to expand...

I hammer the chisel in above the axle mounting plate and the air spring base plate, it will snap the 'R' clips.

Just get a big sorry BIG hammer and and beat the base of the spring.... should snap the rusted clips off in no time .....

And for the top one get a nice sharp chisel and chisel the top above the clip off... be carefull of the pipes but you should have the spring out and new one in minutes....

Just did this today it took longer to remove the front wheelarches than to do the spring changes

It is possible to do change without, removing arches: best if double manned, one pulls base of arch out other does job. Awkward, and risk of skinned knuckles, but does save time.

one thing i found when i did my rear one last week was the boss at the bottom wouldnt go in enough to locate the pin. I couldnt push it down or anything. after 30 mins i let the car down till the wheel was just touching the ground, checked the location on the boss and reset the EAS.
Once the air started flowing the boss located itsself so i shimmyed under and dropped the pin in.

Many thanks for all the help and suggestions. Managed to get all four replaced today - have to say the rears were such a pain - no way the pins would move with a hammer and punch, ended up having to grind the pin away and chisel between base and support and they came.

Top pins popped out no problems, but the guide then says to wiggle the air bag out - of course it wasn't that simple as the top seemed well wedged, still a few minutes with a very long pointy bar sorted that. Having learnt me lessons the second rear was only a 10 minute job.

The fronts weren't too bad, bottom pins pulled no problems but getting to the top clips (didn't remove wheel arch liners) took some patients.

Still all sorted now, replaced with Arnott Gen II so hopefully will last the life of the vehicle. Felt little more solid when I took her out, although that could be my imagination.

Anyway done now! Thanks again.

Well the rangie has lowered itself overnight so I did the soap test and found the right drivers side leaking at the compression joint. Removed the pipe and checked it was clean and refitted, but still bubbling away.

There is some slight scoring on the pipe where it inserts into the collet so I guess that small section will need cutting off. Not sure what tools are needed for that as I don't want to make a mess - is there a special tool or just a bloomin sharp knife required?

jcborden said:

Well the rangie has lowered itself overnight so I did the soap test and found the right drivers side leaking at the compression joint. Removed the pipe and checked it was clean and refitted, but still bubbling away.

There is some slight scoring on the pipe where it inserts into the collet so I guess that small section will need cutting off. Not sure what tools are needed for that as I don't want to make a mess - is there a special tool or just a bloomin sharp knife required?

Click to expand...

Special tool yes, needed no. Stanley knife. But make sure you cut it square. Tiny bit of washing up liquid and push it back in.