So the air-conditioning in my d2 is really not very good. Might be enough in the cooler regions but in 40degrees+ Summer Malta it wont do. Checked the gas. Changed condenser, fan output seems similar to other landies so i think it is the system it self that is ****. Any ideas on how i can make it better? Thinking about converting it to an electric compressor setup (that way i gain a few precious ponies as well)?
Disco 2 Air-conditioning upgrade
- Thread starter mad85
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
- Posts
- 33,940
- Location
- North Shropshire
The only time I've seen ac that's actually any good, is in American cars.
I've driven in 45c heat with the system on full, it started icing up and got 'fog' coming thru the vents!
Not sure electric will save on the long term, your alternator will have to work harder
I've driven in 45c heat with the system on full, it started icing up and got 'fog' coming thru the vents!
Not sure electric will save on the long term, your alternator will have to work harder
- Posts
- 33,940
- Location
- North Shropshire
Have you had the system pressure tested? That will tell you if the pump is good or not, or if there are any blockages internally
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,911
- Location
- Arad/Romania
Oversized how? as power or dimension? You need a really powerfull fan like the original which can push at least 2500cfm at 400W, both are minimal requirements the size or type is irrelevant... without such power the system will not cool enough cos it gets too hot so the pressure goes above the dual pressure switch's limit which will activate and deactivate the compressor too often without letting it work constantly. What are the specs of your fan?
Last edited:
yes that should help for sure but not sure I want to 'waste' the space in the rear as i use mine for overlanding, every cm2 in the boot is precious
Where did you find the specs for the original fan? The one i have does not produce 2500cfm, its rated at 1687cfm, I was assured that it should be better than the original one
However considering the design of the original unit compared to quality oem fan I think it should be less than what I currently have
Last edited:
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,911
- Location
- Arad/Romania
Then that's your problem, that fan is way to weak for the job cos the compressor is disabled by the pressure switch too often, tell those who assured you that the 1650cfm fan is OK to shove it up theyr's @...
i didnt find the specs of the original fan anywhere, i measured the cfm with air flow meter and the current draw of mine on the bench after i replaced the burnt motor with original VDO, untill the motor arrived i fitted this kind https://www.wrightsautosupplies.co.uk/product/16-land-rover-discovery-radiator-cooling-fan/ which even if it's rated to 2500 cfm being only 120W it can keep up with that cfm once the vehicle is moving and i didnt have enough cooling at 30*C outside temp cos the compressor was disabled every 10 minutes or so. Once the original was back it started to behave normally. For these kind of 40'ish temps which are now in Europe i'll upgrade to a 4500cfm dual fan setup soon cos the original becomes weak too
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,911
- Location
- Arad/Romania
I made a quick search for a a link with a similar 2500cfm/120W fan for example, i missed that it's 16", mine is probably 12" or so but the gist is that it's rated 2500cfm at 120w that's sure and not up to the job cos it has not enough power, you can get even 4000 cfm from 60W fan but it can't hold it when it gets any external load like when the air is pushing the blades
Last edited:
another example, this is a 12" high quality comex fan https://www.revotec.com/acatalog/12 (305mm) SuckerBlowing Tech Spec HP.pdf and only produces 1300cfm. My Spal produces a lot more due to the bigger flaps (also means more draw and more noise but who cares?)
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,911
- Location
- Arad/Romania
i imported only the motor from here https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinf...R8kR9fibX+lZc7uJJwYyAHScjdcwjpcaks8+LRLDCn8h3 and changed it, search for PM9128 or TYC 630870 or direct interchanges for these maybe you find closerfair enough, genuine fan is around 500 quid though
- Posts
- 33,940
- Location
- North Shropshire
Should airflow while driving not be enough ?
- Posts
- 45,086
- Location
- East Dorset
Have you tried using it on "recirculate"?
That ought to make it cooler. It's what you have to do when topping the system up.
That ought to make it cooler. It's what you have to do when topping the system up.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,911
- Location
- Arad/Romania
.
Are you joking? ... maybe at above 70mph or so
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 17,911
- Location
- Arad/Romania
the internal setup is no factor for the condenser's temperature which is in direct relation with the system's pressure ... maybe it will be a bit cooler for very short time as the colder air from cabin is recirculated, that's not a solution and AFAIK not a requirement when topping the system up eitherHave you tried using it on "recirculate"?
That ought to make it cooler. It's what you have to do when topping the system up.
- Posts
- 45,086
- Location
- East Dorset
Not arguing, just trying to give him a practical if short term solution to his comfort needs. But agree about the need for a decent fan if everything else is as it should be. I also find that if I leave mine on with the fan on full power, something happens to switch the fan off so I have to set it back on but on a one lower position. i.e. not top speed. Then it works.
I top mine up regularly as it has a leak,
and yes, the instructions do say to put it on full power, (i.e. internal fan on highest speed, on fully cold) AND recirculate.
