air con compressor

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onyx

New Member
Posts
70
Location
stoke-on-trent
Hi, had air con re-gassed 6 weeks ago and it blew chilled.I have had it on this week and noticed now that it is just cool !!.The system was empty when the mech did it but he said it pressure tested ok with no leaks.I have read a few threads on here and had the wife press the aircon off button a few times with temp set to Lo with my head stuck next to the diesel lump and couldn't hear/see anything from the compressor.Whats the next move guys. There is no book symbol showing on the hevac ?
:confused: :confused: :confused:
 
In my opinion, a pressure test is next to useless, you need to have an ultraviolet dye in it, then you can see the leak, no matter how small it is, and it will show you exactly where it is too

Go on ask me how i know? did it 3 times, and it didn't show as a leak, until the dye went in
 
In my opinion, a pressure test is next to useless, you need to have an ultraviolet dye in it, then you can see the leak, no matter how small it is, and it will show you exactly where it is too

Go on ask me how i know? did it 3 times, and it didn't show as a leak, until the dye went in


ah just did me A/C and with a vaccum in it i found a tiny weeny leak at the pressure switch, i'd assume that a pressure test would do the same so long as yer can hear it all yer need do it put some soapy water around the area yer heard the hiss from and yer have yer leak.

still int quite 100% yet but ah reckon the expander valve is stuck
 
There is no book symbol showing on the hevac ?
:confused: :confused: :confused:

I think this is the interesting bit, no book symbol showing, it will show if there is no gas in the system.

One thing I would say is have you checked your A/C compressor link lead?? The lead runs from the blue connector just under and forward of the engine bay fusebox down to the compressor. Its a very thin and rubbishy sort of lead and easily damaged...

aclead1.jpg

aclead2.jpg


...this was the lead from my P38. For months I had had intermittent A/C, sometimes it would work and sometimes it wouldn't. Drove me mad looking for the fault, I had replaced nearly every sensor inside the cabin and even replaced the HeVAC ECU itself (the display had gone so it needed doing anyway).

I took it to an A/C specialist who claimed to know about Range Rovers and all that happened was me getting all the plastic fasteners broken that hold the passenger seat base surround in place as they tried searching for the fusebox inside when all I had wanted them to do was tell me whether there was a gas charge in the system - me = not happy.

I spent hours trying to find the problem until I came across a small technical bulletin hidden away in RAVE which described my symptoms down to a tee...

aclhrns.png


...I immediately went out to the vehicle, started up and turned on the A/C to LO both sides full blast, the engine revs dropped a little and then came back up as they always do as though the compressor was going to kick in but nothing. I opened the bonnet and as I went to check the lead as I grabbed hold of it - CLICK! - the compressor engaged and the A/C blew nice and cold. Ordered a new link lead from the dealer (new part number for the lead is YMQ103910) , cost a fiver, installed it and reliable, constantly working A/C was back - woo! :D So, check the lead very carefully, especially at the compressor end, you may just have a dodgy lead like mine. You will need to get your hands dirty to check the lead, you need to snake your hand/arm down past the turbo pipes to reach the connector itself to unplug it.

Let us know how it goes!

-Wills :)

P.S. The TSB says the the book icon should be showing with this fault but I found that wasn't the case. My book icon never showed and no faults were logged so that part of the TSB is a little bit misleading.
 
Cheers Wills, will have a gander tomorrow.Do you know if the compressor would need to be running when i had it regassed to blow that lovely cold air or would it have been a case of new pressurised gas being enough to blow like that for a couple of weeks ? I have never heard anything ' click '
or noticed any drop in revs etc.
:confused:
 
HI, checked the lead that Wills mentioned and all seemed ok so phoned up the bloke who regassed the system ( local ) and he said he would be with me in 5 mins. 5 mins later and there he was !.He said his normal thoughts would be a leaking condensor ( he reckons very common fault ) but when he pressure tested i still had 90psi in the system.Still reckoned it would be the condensor but must be a very small hole/leakage.He then topped up the system, ran the aircon,closed all but 1 of the vents and produced an electronic ' sniffer' and put it to the open vent.Hey Presto, leak detected.
He told me there was a fairly new product on the market that would seal it (similar to radweld ).He E-mailed the link to it ( ebay) and when i recieve it give him a ring and he will come and empty the system ( saving the gas ) and fill the system with the sealant and regass again.All this for £10..Will let you know the outcome but fingers crossed should have a sorted system !! Pity the clunking auto box cant be solved as easily.
PS. I know compressor is ok and working cus when we switched the aircon on the pressure dropped to zero.
 
I know nothing......... just a couple of things.would you use radweld in your cooling systum?? thought not. Miracle cure for air con leak ?? would not recomend putting it in your air con systum. Your choice .fingers crossed lotto ticket bought. ...............Now you know nothing
 
Correct my choice, would rather buy a lotto ticket for £34 than £1000 for one ( compressor).Bloke has had success on 2 freelanders this year.And by the way i used radweld on my mk1 Escort in the Eighties and that saved me £80 then !!:cool:
 
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