Advice needed - Hampshire

Hi,

I'd appreciate some advice on sourcing a part for a Freelander1. The hooter is no longer working (steering wheel switches were replaced at last MOT and were working fine for a while). This time the service centre (reputable) thinks it is the "Squib Rotary Coupling Clock Spring" which I believe fits onto the steering column.

I don't think these are available to purchase 'new', so I sourced one on eBay but the service centre checked the electrical function of it before fitting and decided against fitting, because:
1) The rotary coupling wasn't 'locked' in position upon receipt (and therefore they said it might be damaged). They indicated the coupling should be marked and locked prior to removal & shipping
2) They indicated the electrical function failed when tested

The advice I require is therefore:
a) Are these couplings likely to 'break' if not locked in position, and therefore is it risky buying one second-hand via eBay? (I'm having problems with refund/return, so once bitten.....)
b) Can anyone recommend where I might be able to purchase a tested/working coupling from a reputable person / company?
c) If I can't obtain one, is there an alternative to wiring the hooter without this coupling which would be MOT compliant?

Moved

I did mine recently with a used item from ebay. It was obviously unlocked so I set it to the midpoint of the available turns (I think it went 2 1/4 turns each way).

The strong advice was to leave the airbag alone for 30 mins after disconnecting the battery so I respected that and had a coffee before disconnecting the airbag.

Making sure everything lined up with the centred steering at the mid point I fitted the new coupler and put everything else back. Job done and the horn works again. My stereo is aftermarket but I tested the switches with a multimeter and they also worked.

I am pretty sure Landrover charge over £100 for these new so £20 for a used one was a bargain even if it only lasts another year or so.

The guy that does the more complicated bits on mine said he has fitted a momentary switch to the dashboard and that gets you through the MOT - but it has to be momentary and labelled "Horn".

I pretty much followed the "how-to" here:
http://mgf.ultimatemg.com/group2/DIY/steering/index.htm

Just fitted the ribbon cable rotary thingy. As above, make sure it is centred, the car wheels are straight and the steering wheel fitted on straight. On mine 2002 TD4, there was a white marker that showed when it was central and it moved to black when it wasn't. Testing it with audio controls, horn and air bag light going out is straight forward. You will need to reset the SRS airbag light if the car has been powered without it fitted. Also - as above, allow time for the SRS to 'discharge' before pulling the airbag plug out having removed battery. 30 mins would be safe.

As said. Just gently rotate it each way, counting the turns. Then from that, work out the mid point. That's the position it's fitted.
Oh as far is I'm aware, they are still available new.

Obsolete says Land Rover dealer in Reading Berks !

andyfreelandy said:

Obsolete says Land Rover dealer in Reading Berks !

Click to expand...

I'm sure it's used in a Rover too, just under a different part number. I'll check out my info on this issue.

Edit. I've checked and it does appear that the FL1 RC is NLA. That's going to make replacements more expensive

Thanks everyone for your replies and efforts to research this for me. All very helpful indeed.
It looks like I'm going to have to risk another eBay purchase.

(I believe I've been subject to a scam on eBay by a landrover used-parts dealer in northern UK unfortunately , this forum has helped to restore some of my faith in humanity however)

Hi Mate, hope you get sorted - the above advice is all sound. the unit is commonly referred to as a clock spring.

BrenUK said:

The advice I require is therefore:
a) Are these couplings likely to 'break' if not locked in position, and therefore is it risky buying one second-hand via eBay? (I'm having problems with refund/return, so once bitten.....)
b) Can anyone recommend where I might be able to purchase a tested/working coupling from a reputable person / company?
c) If I can't obtain one, is there an alternative to wiring the hooter without this coupling which would be MOT compliant?

Click to expand...

a, not usually no.
b, try Gentlemen of salvage - http://www.gentlemenofsalvage.co.uk/ - I swear by them - Ask for Rob or James - and tell them that Joe from Portugal recommend them to you. Absolutely first class. My no.1 go to for all things freelander.
c, shouldn't be needed at all

The clock spring units are not the easiest to test - to say the least - but can fail - usually it is in the area of electronic power steering that issues occur on full lock - certainly not on the horn.

Hope that helps
Joe

Hi all,
I purchased another used clock-spring and followed Bandit's instructions posted above to successfully install this yesterday. Horn operating again. Thanks very much once again.
(on a separate note there was a connection within the housing coming from the horn which wasn't attached to anything (see pic attached. Should this be connected to something?)

BrenUK said:

Hi all,
I purchased another used clock-spring and followed Bandit's instructions posted above to successfully install this yesterday. Horn operating again. Thanks very much once again.
(on a separate note there was a connection within the housing coming from the horn which wasn't attached to anything (see pic attached. Should this be connected to something?)

Click to expand...

That's only connected if the vehicle has cruise control. If not, it's left doing nothing. Don't worry, it's not connected at the other end, so is quite safe to clip it back in and forget about it