Adjusting steering geometry.

Right, now I've solved me leaking swivels (hopefully), I want to sort out me steering.

I fitted all new track rod ends and a new rear steering rod (to replace a bent one) recently. However, I don't think I got it quite right.

The steering wheel is at the 1 o'clock position when driving straight ahead.
If I set the offside wheel straight, the nearside one seems to be pointing slightly to the right.

I intend to adjust things using the method described below. Does this sound correct and the right way to proceed?

1. Tightly stretch a string around the landy at the centre of the 4 wheels.
2. Disconnect the rear steering arm.
2. Lock the steering wheel at the 12 o'clock position.
3. Adjust the front steering arm, so that the nearside wheel points straight ahead.
4. Re-connect the rear steering arm.
5. Adjust the rear steering arm so that the offside wheel points straight ahead also.
6. Move the steering from lock to lock a couple of times and re-check.

Thanks for any advice.

how yu do yo swivels then Trew - aint seen the post?

The Mad Hat Man said:

how yu do yo swivels then Trew - aint seen the post?

Click to expand...

Specsavers?
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/help-what-fook-am-i-doing-wrong-66602.html

Treworgey 90 said:

Specsavers?

Click to expand...

Touche?

you just need to adjust what you call the front steering arm so that the front wheels run parallel - and then adjust the rear rod (the one that's attached to the relay) so that the steering wheel is at 1 O'Clock when the fronts are parallel

Wouldn't 12 o'clock be better?

First thing you need to do is check the tracking. A mechanical track guage is pretty easy to make and very accurate. From memory a little toe-in is best. Always better to go for a little toe-in for on-road stability IMHO. This is adjusted by the rear track rod (opposite threads on each end to allow length adjustment). You can then check to see when the wheels are dead ahead, that there is alignment with the back wheels - the old string technique although much better to do without the wheels on. When perfectly straight you should be able to detect the same amount of toe in on each wheel / brake disc.

Once the track is done you can adjust the steering arm (as you describe it - the front arm, which runs from the steering box to the n/s wheel) you can change the steering wheel position. This is the easy bit. If you've only touched the front there is no reason to worry about the back wheels as their alignment to the chassis will not change.

I'd also make sure that camber and castor have not changed to ensure no bump steer issues or non-alignment. These can be done pretty easily with a straightforward spirit level.

HTH,

Jon