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ACE trouble codes

Discussion in 'Land Rover Discovery' started by beerdude, Dec 4, 2014.

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  1. beerdude

    beerdude Active Member

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    Hi Everyone
    I have a 2002 td5 with the ace light on it had a load of old codes in there but after wiping them the only one that came back was:
    20 Valve Block out of spec
    after about 15 miles the light went red and that code was present with this:
    18 closed loop pressure not under control
    I cleared the codes drove it for a couple of miles and just the orange light is back.
    Does anyone know what problem these codes/descriptions refer to?
    Kev
     
  2. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    Hi, when mine had this fault code the pump was gone... in the morning after you start it remove the reservoir's cap and if you see foamy fluid get a good used pump from ebay or a breaker...there are many good pumps on the market cos usually people are getting rid of the ACE at the first leak

    if no foam it's possible that the presure valve solenoid or pressure transducer is gone, the pressure solenoid which is on the side of block must have around 5.6 ohm resistance if you want to measure it

    though if you got these codes with nanocom they might be wrong so double check with hawkeye, lynx or T4 before you take actions, as long as you have fluid in the reservoir there's no danger cos the system goes into locked bars condition and acts like with classic anti-roll
     
  3. beerdude

    beerdude Active Member

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    Thanks for that, I got the codes from my Hawkeye, I'll check for foam in the reservoir tomorrow. Is it the transducer or the solenoid that is on the front of the valve block?
    Regards Kev
     
  4. biggeeeee

    biggeeeee Retired - Living the dream

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    Transducer

    [​IMG]
     
  5. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    the solenoid is at the front but i dunno the resistance of the transducer unfortunately
     
  6. beerdude

    beerdude Active Member

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    If the weathers ok I'll be on it tomorrow, I'll let you know how I get on, thanks for the info.
    Kev
     
  7. beerdude

    beerdude Active Member

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    I had a look this morning and the ace fluid was foaming so off to the local 4x4 breakers and got a new pump, fitted it, no circulation, bled the pump by cracking the banjo fitting and hey presto all good and no ace light so thanks very much for your help. I forgot to mention in the first post that the hill descent light was coming on too (but no others) and it still is, any clues there please? I can find loads on 3 amigos but not just the hill descent light.
    Cheers Kev
     
  8. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    that was an rapid fix...and i'm sure easyer and cheaper than a conversion;)

    watch the fluid level and top up cos it will drop as the system bleeds itself, the more fast curves you take the sooner it gets rid of air

    for the single HDC lamp there's a problem with a built in relay in the interior fusebox, see this thread http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/diagrams-vs-reality-mystery-am-i-dumb-160328.html since then i've been becoming smarter and i know now :cool:

    so this relay is part of the fusebox not serviceable but as it's intermittent it could be a wiring/contact issue, what you can do is to unplug the interior fusebox first and give contact spray in the plugs cos it used to suffer from corrosion, if no joy the same thing with the SL|BS ECU and if still no joy replace the fusebox....and pray to not be some interruption in the link between these:(

    when you plug back the fusebox put ignition on ll and leave it so 5 minutes to regain digital data communication with the BCU or it might activate the immobiliser
     
  9. beerdude

    beerdude Active Member

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    Right then, I'll be trying that next, probably next week now but I will keep you posted.
    Cheers Kev
     
  10. beerdude

    beerdude Active Member

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    Update:
    I took the fuse box out and cleaned all the connections then cleaned all the connections on the slabs ecu, took the disco out for a long run today and the hill descent light came on once, same as before, once it the car was turned off and restarted the light went out and stayed out, so, would you change the fuse box or slabs ecu first?
     
  11. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    i'd go for the fusebox myself as the warning points to that built in relay and it's plug and play... the SLABS needs programming with tester and i've never seen that fault caused by ECU failure... though everything is possible, depends on your luck ;) see attachment, second on the list
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 14, 2014
  12. beerdude

    beerdude Active Member

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    Thanks for that, I see what you mean about the second fault on the chart.I'll be on it tomorrow or Tuesday.
    Kev
     
  13. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    though if the lamp is not on now don't bother with it, that fault is annoying only due to the warning lamp but it doesnt affect the system behaviour too much
     
  14. beerdude

    beerdude Active Member

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    I drove it about 90 miles before the lamp came on last time. Today I swapped the fuse box and will see if that fixes it I will keep you posted. Thanks for the help.
    Kev
     
  15. beerdude

    beerdude Active Member

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    So far so good I've run it around a bit and on ace light :).
    But now the car sags on the n/s/r corner if left overnight. I have changed both air bags and the n/s ride height sensor, I also found a slight leak on a fitting which I cured, it's still doing it though!! This one's driving me mad.
     
  16. beerdude

    beerdude Active Member

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    Sorry I meant NO ace light
     
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