Disco 2 ACE... replacement pipes on a 2003?

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Buteo

Member
Posts
14
Location
Moray - Miles from anywhere
Gentlepersons,

Having sorted out my PAS courtesy of WPS, The old girl is now losing ACE fluid from the front pipes at a frightening rate...
I love Landrovers... No, really.
Replacement front pipes seem to be either Britpart's ('nuff said...) or LR.
I'm probably looking at a full front set.
Anyone got any civil recommendations, (that doesn't involve torching it!) about any good pattern parts available?

Thanks in advance!
 
Not got ACE on mine but I specifically wanted simple and basic when I bought it and I am so glad I did.
What I can say is that I don't see an issue with Britpart bits.
I replaced the PAS pipework on my defender with Britpart and they worked great and I had no issues with them.
 
I have never used them, but I wouldn't see an issue with Britpart pipes if used with genuine seals. A pipe is a pipe at the end of the day.
 
+1, i fitted britpart pipes 10 years ago and still looking good, they became OEM untill then.... new seals, collets and dowty washers are required
 
One & All,

Thank you for your prompt replies - in particular I'm reassured to read some positive comments about Britpart; my own experience was limited to replacement mudflaps & brackets on a '98 300Tdi, which needed some fine-tuning & even more colourful language...
As you're aware, in some circles they're seen as a joke, yet stay in business - The common theme is "It's a pipe - use good washers/seals..."
Sounds like good advice!
All I need to suss out now is which ones of the many & various that are on offer I need...

Thanks again
B
 
Well, it went like this...
Seals & collets were genuine LR, pipes from DLS (B'part I believe)
Test driven, no issues; a drive later in the week introduced me to the appropriate warning lights - back to the garage...
Turns out that the valve block was now leaking- seems to be corrosion around one of the pipe access points, apparently another common area of failure. She is 15 winters old after all!
I know there are a few 2nd hand blocks out there as well as adapted blocks to take different pipe fittings, but to be honest I've had enough. I don't have the facilities to do it myself and the local garage sees me as their pension plan, I pay them that regularly.
So, much as it pains me after 19 years of Discovery ownership, It can go on Ebay next week as a project or spares.(Don't have the required number of posts to sell on here)
No plans for another LR in the foreseeable future. (So I'll probably have another within the year!)
Thank you all for the advice over the years as a guest as well as most recently as a member!
 
I converted mine, I had to pipes were fractured.

Not a bad job but you do need to find a good workshop person
 
Yes, I had considered this before trying to fix the ACE; however, having now spent over £600 on parts + more on labour, I'd be looking at something similar on a roll-bar conversion - finding someone good to do the job 1st time is the issue - and I still have to sort out the sunroofs as well as the passenger door lock which has stopped responding to the fob!
With the benefit of hindsight, I should have gone down the roll-bar conversion route at the first drip; maybe others can learn from my errors!
Regards,
B
 
Buteo said:
Yes, I had considered this before trying to fix the ACE; however, having now spent over £600 on parts + more on labour, I'd be looking at something similar on a roll-bar conversion - finding someone good to do the job 1st time is the issue - and I still have to sort out the sunroofs as well as the passenger door lock which has stopped responding to the fob!
With the benefit of hindsight, I should have gone down the roll-bar conversion route at the first drip; maybe others can learn from my errors!
Regards,
B
Click to expand...
Feel free to drop the ebay link here, wouldn't mind a look ;)
 
Buteo said:
Yes, I had considered this before trying to fix the ACE; however, having now spent over £600 on parts + more on labour, I'd be looking at something similar on a roll-bar conversion - finding someone good to do the job 1st time is the issue - and I still have to sort out the sunroofs as well as the passenger door lock which has stopped responding to the fob!
With the benefit of hindsight, I should have gone down the roll-bar conversion route at the first drip; maybe others can learn from my errors!
Regards,
B
Click to expand...

One I have seen on D2BC is to convert the block then just remove the flanges and use 3/8" compression fittings straight to block
 
Buteo said:
Well, it went like this...
Seals & collets were genuine LR, pipes from DLS (B'part I believe)
Test driven, no issues; a drive later in the week introduced me to the appropriate warning lights - back to the garage...
Turns out that the valve block was now leaking- seems to be corrosion around one of the pipe access points, apparently another common area of failure. She is 15 winters old after all!
I know there are a few 2nd hand blocks out there as well as adapted blocks to take different pipe fittings, but to be honest I've had enough. I don't have the facilities to do it myself and the local garage sees me as their pension plan, I pay them that regularly.
So, much as it pains me after 19 years of Discovery ownership, It can go on Ebay next week as a project or spares.(Don't have the required number of posts to sell on here)
No plans for another LR in the foreseeable future. (So I'll probably have another within the year!)
Thank you all for the advice over the years as a guest as well as most recently as a member!
Click to expand...
That is a shame. Given that the youngest D2’s are nearly 15yrs old and the oldest nearly 20, this will be happening more often. Problem areas on these cars that are beyond the average owner without the skills or budget to repair are, chassis rot, inner wing rot, bulkhead rot, footwell rot, rusting roof above windscreen to mention just a few. This is over and above the fact that the powers above are trying to force us diesel drivers off the road. I wouldn’t feel too disheartened. We will all be in the same boat soon enough.:(
 
Well, on the plus side, as far as I can ascertain I don't have any of those other problems;
But how the hell can you actually feel bad about giving up on a car...!?
Ah, must be that Land Rover thing we keep talking about...
 
I have a 2000 V8 with ACE which is displaying the same problem. Gradual drop of fluid in the reservoir (high to low in about a week or 200 miles) and slow drip of fluid from two points, one from one of the pipes to the rear and one from the front. I'm not sure if the front leak is in a pipe from the pump/resevoir return or the two pipes that go to the front ram. Both leaks seem to come from where the pipes pass through the rubber protectors that hold them clipped to the chassis/body. I'm guessing at this stage that either the pipes have corroded faster where they sit in the rubber clip or that the rubber has eroded allowing them to chatter against the steel. I've powerwashed all the gunge (mainly waxoyl) off the pipes and am waiting for the drips to reappear so that I can try and trace them to their source. Then my intention is to cut the damaged section out and rejoin it using stainless hydraulic unions and stainless pipe if necessary. My questions; has anyone any direct experience of trying this and have advice to offer. Am I risking a major leak by continuing to top the reservoir up? I understand that if you do lose all fluid then the first thing is the pump whines a bit and then fails catastrophically. Then I whine a bit and fail similarly. I really would like to keep the ACE if at all possible but the cost of new pipes is prohibitive.
 
John366 said:
I have a 2000 V8 with ACE which is displaying the same problem. Gradual drop of fluid in the reservoir (high to low in about a week or 200 miles) and slow drip of fluid from two points, one from one of the pipes to the rear and one from the front. I'm not sure if the front leak is in a pipe from the pump/resevoir return or the two pipes that go to the front ram. Both leaks seem to come from where the pipes pass through the rubber protectors that hold them clipped to the chassis/body. I'm guessing at this stage that either the pipes have corroded faster where they sit in the rubber clip or that the rubber has eroded allowing them to chatter against the steel. I've powerwashed all the gunge (mainly waxoyl) off the pipes and am waiting for the drips to reappear so that I can try and trace them to their source. Then my intention is to cut the damaged section out and rejoin it using stainless hydraulic unions and stainless pipe if necessary. My questions; has anyone any direct experience of trying this and have advice to offer. Am I risking a major leak by continuing to top the reservoir up? I understand that if you do lose all fluid then the first thing is the pump whines a bit and then fails catastrophically. Then I whine a bit and fail similarly. I really would like to keep the ACE if at all possible but the cost of new pipes is prohibitive.
Click to expand...
John,
"...where the pipes pass through the rubber protectors that hold them clipped to the chassis/body..." This is where I first identified my leak and apparently is a common area for them. In my case I decided that if one pipe has gone, the others will follow, so elected to replace all the front. The expense & alternatives were considered as above. Then the valve block gave up...
However, sounds as if you know your way round a set of spanners, and as MJI says, there's a lot of info around regarding 'fixes'. There are reconditioned & adapted valve blocks out there using 'normal' fittings which sounds like what you intend to do. I would have preferred to have kept the ACE, but having tried & failed, was looking at the same cost again to pay a garage for another attempt or conversion.
Properly working ACE does make a difference - I've driven both, hard & can vouch for it. Do your research, allow for something else failing and have a plan'B'.
And 'C'.
And D!
All I can do is wish you well with it, Good Luck!
B.
 
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