Disco 2 ACE Red Warning intermittent

Hello, I have recently upgraded the valve block to hydraulic fittings and now i have zero leaks that I can see. The ACE worked faultlessly for a glorious few weeks and suddenly im getting an intermittent red warning. switching it off and on again seem to 'fix' it.

I also had a yellow warning for a few days which went away. when I read the faults there was one fault which caught my eye : battery voltage low. According to my aftermarket battery gauge the battery voltage is correct however I understand things like a dodgy earth or corrosion in one of the fuse boxes can affect a particular circuit. Does this make sense? and if yes where would be the best place to check the voltage going to the ace system? maybe the orange plug under the coolant reservoir?

I havent been able to read the faults with the red warning light on yet but though about checking voltages first

the other errors were:

fault 47-07 The main relay test has failed
fault 33-06 direction control valve fault
fault 23-04 pressure signal out of range
fault 20-04 pressure control valve fault
fault 18-04 hydraulic or mechanic fault in pressure control system

Check the wiring to the block

Did you know that if you run the test sequence in a car park noone will park next to you.

MJI said:

Did you know that if you run the test sequence in a car park noone will park next to you.

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what do you mean?

mad85 said:

what do you mean?

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The test sequence that you can initiate with nanocom/Hawkeye diagnostic tools will "rock" the vehicle side to side as it test sit.. hence no one wanting to park next to it

Out of curiosity have you cleaned out the mesh screen filter on the ACE block since? When I machined mine out it was still collecting ally filings weeks after.

I'd check the plugs going into the ACE block.. and assuming you have a diagnostics tool it will let you test each individual directional control valve and relays etc, make sure they all operate as they should.

I'd imagine best place to test for voltage would be on the ACE block connectors.. unless there's a possible fault with the ACE ECU it self, but seems doubtful since it's only now happening after working on the block.

thanks, i do have nanocom, is there any documentation on how to conduct this test? and how much space should i leave? i plan on doing it in my garage as im currently stuck in quarantine anyway

mad85 said:

thanks, i do have nanocom, is there any documentation on how to conduct this test? and how much space should i leave? i plan on doing it in my garage as im currently stuck in quarantine anyway

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Hmm.. I wouldn't be able to tell you as I've only used Hawkeye, I'd imagine you could download the manual for the nano and see if its in there, or search the forum.
As for how much space.. nothing crazy, its probably 6 inches of movement at most.

If the fault codes were retrieved with nanocom then it's very likely that they are wrong, remove the ACE relay, bridge the thicker cavities in the fusebox(where the relay contact goes) with a wire then read inputs with nanocom and post the results here and i'll tell you more

mad85 said:

battery voltage low. According to my aftermarket battery gauge the battery voltage is correct

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What do you mean by correct, what was the actual voltage?

kermit_rr said:

What do you mean by correct, what was the actual voltage?

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I think it was around 14.7V

mad85 said:

I think it was around 14.7V

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That's the charging voltage, you need to check what the reading voltage of the battery is when it's not running, ie first thing in the morning

Transducer can cause this if it’s knackered. Get hold of a known working one to test. I bought a new one when i had this issue and it solved it.

ronsealdeath said:

Transducer can cause this if it’s knackered. Get hold of a known working one to test. I bought a new one when i had this issue and it solved it.

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ahh good to know! so it would cause intermittent issues?

i told you wha's the way to diagnose this but if you want to change parts on guesses be my guest

mad85 said:

ahh good to know! so it would cause intermittent issues?

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As Fery says you need to do some diagnostics but if you have a mate with a D2, swopping the ACE transducers over is a 10 min job to test.

thanks for all the input. so during the weekend i pulled out and cleaned the connectors, also cleaned the filter although it did not have any visible debris (i had used a tonne of brake cleaner cleaning the block after tapping it). Cleaning the connectors seems to have made a bit of a difference as Im not getting as many red warning lights (still happened once). Also getting intermittent yellow warning! While I had the yellow warning I jumped the relay and took the following data:

Battery Voltage: 14.61V
DCV1 0.00Amp
DCV2 0.01Amp
PCV 0.00Amp
Pressure Sensor 0.41bar
Residual Prerssure 20bar
Upper Accelerometer 0.02
Lower Accelerometer 0.01

Also had the following errors:
Fault 18-04 Hydraulic or mechanic fault in pressre control system
Fault 22-04 hydraulic pressure too high
Fault 23-04 pressure signal out of range
Fault 33-06 directional control valve fault
Fault 42-07 hydraulic pressure too low
Fault 45-07 battery voltage too low

Any ideas what could cause these issues? planning on checking the resistance of the block components at the ecu some time this week

Seems that DCV1 is gone or the circuit interrupted, also the pressure transducer is suspect, here are hawkeye readings from a well working system at idle:

ACE INPUTS
1. DCVs (both) - .001A
2. Pressure control valve: 0 - .012A
3. Pressure sensor: varies between 16 and 19 but if it's out of that range the transducer is gone
4. Residual pressure: between 3 - 6 Bar but can be higher after the vehicle was driven or the ambient temp is low
5. System pressure: around 6 Bar fluctuating
6. Accelerometers: 0.01

for troubleshooting purpose: the resistance of both DCVs(top of the valve block, DCV1-toward front; DCV2-toward rear)= 2.7 Ohm, pressure control solenoid(on the left side of block) = 5.7 Ohm.

thanks for your reply. Which one would be DCV1?

Read again the last part of my reply