Abs toothed wheel thing.

Got me p38's hubs etc in bits, cleaning everything up in readiness for new bits. The teeth on the abs thing are rusty, not too bad but my OCD is telling me to clean 'em up shiny. Not the easiest thing to tart up but I'll do it if I should?

Yes, the timing gear should be clean for the hall effect sensor to pick up correctly. A quick polish with Auotsol should do the job

v8250 said:

Yes, the timing gear should be clean for the hall effect sensor to pick up correctly. A quick polish with Auotsol should do the job

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Just the top of the teeth then? That's easy enough to do, just getting down to the sides/bottoms of the teeth looks to be a pain..

Christ, that's rusty...I'd be using a rotary wire brush all over that, then soak in oil...clean and polish

I had to change 2 on a 406 , they had cracked and stopped ABS working had to heat and shrink on , toolfix do a cheap wire wheel set should get in there

Flossie said:

Got me p38's hubs etc in bits, cleaning everything up in readiness for new bits. The teeth on the abs thing are rusty, not too bad but my OCD is telling me to clean 'em up shiny. Not the easiest thing to tart up but I'll do it if I should?

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How long have they been in bits

Al2O3 said:

How long have they been in bits

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2 days.
The bus had been laid up for 4 yrs before I got it a couple of months ago.
Only just started to fix it up last week.
Everything is rusty!

v8250 said:

Christ, that's rusty...I'd be using a rotary wire brush all over that, then soak in oil...clean and polish

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I can get it all shiny quite easily except the Valleys of the teeth, Shirley them bits don't need to be rust free?
Happy to be corrected though!
Just not happy to clean something that doesn't affect operation.
I've used wire brush cups and it's all shiny now ,except the teeth valleys, nothing can get 'right in there' effectively and there is pitting on the valley sides too, tops of the teeth look like chrome now though.

You could dip it in brick acid for an hour if keen but can’t see it affecting sensor reading

For it to work it only needs a good clean break in the signal.
In other words if the if all the gaps are clear of crap and all the tops are in good cond (no flaky stuff) then it should work.

J

marjon said:

For it to work it only needs a good clean break in the signal.
In other words if the if all the gaps are clear of crap and all the tops are in good cond (no flaky stuff) then it should work.

J

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Cheers, just what I needed to hear
Being as they are not weather tight I suspected that surface rust wouldn't be an issue but thought best to ask just in case

You mention an ABS issue (in tother fred) count the teef on the ring.

Not saying its an issue but there have been others that have had too many/not enough teef on said ring and it throws allsorts of issues.
Do any of them look like they may have been changed? Think it has come up on Discos not sure seen anybody mentioned it with the P38.

Its probably not so dont get to worried.

J

I believe the light doesn't go out until 4.5mph or something so it might just be that, I haven't got room really to test without going on to a busy ish main road and I wouldn't anyway with no tax/mot/bald tyres/insurance.
However the abs pump runs every time the brake pedal is pressed so I may need an accumulator but I read that air in the system can cause excessive pump running and it may just need further bleeding.

Lift and support the body so yer can drive it wiv the wheels spinning to test it.

Hippo said:

Lift and support the body so yer can drive it wiv the wheels spinning to test it.

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Can't.
Parrently me air balloons will fell orf.