ABS Sensor snapped

I'm changing the front brake pads and discs, also the abs sensors, it's very rusty under there and when I tried to pull the old sensor out it snapped, have drilled out the majority it's just a case of taking my time with a hammer, screwdriver and wd40 to remove what's left of the sleeve and sensor outer casing.
Has anyone had any experiance with this and any tips/tricks you could let me know will be much appreciated.

If it is an early type 2000 or earlier then the new one comes with a sleeve. Use copper slip to prevent seizing. Later ones held with a single bolt and made of plastic usually come out OK.

Just take your time, clean all old sensor out of hole, apply copper slip and insert new. Take care not to damage reluctance ring on earlier type when drilling out.

To add to Andy's post above. If it's the later type without an ABS reluctor ring, then be careful when removing the sensor, as the magnetic reluctor in the bearing is easily damaged.

Update on the snapped sensor.
The sensor just seems to be braking in to bits with my pulling when I can get hold of it, it just does not want to move at all mmmmmm.
I have decided to remove the hub and Drift it out from the other side, so need to wait now for replacement nuts and bolts to turn up, so with a bit of luck I can crack on next weekend.

Update,
Well finally got the wheel hub off, it took just over 2 hrs and found the abs ring rusted to the inside of the hub, so now have to wait for new parts again lol, drifted what remained of the abs sensor out and cleaned the hub up.
So what should have been a few hrs at most job has taken so far about 15 hrs spread over 2 weekends and that's just one side hahaha, still have the other side to do yet.
At least it won't take long to get it all back together. Fingers crossed.

Isn't corrosion wonderfully entertaining stuff? Glad to see that you got it mostly sorted. I hope that the rest of the job goes smoothly for you.

Lol the further I go the more I find that needs replacing, took me half the day to strip out the caliper bleed screw with wd40, heat, hammer taps and a screw extractor, now waiting for new pistons and seals, it's turning into a full rebuild.

Jason885 said:

now waiting for new pistons and seals, it's turning into a full rebuild.

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Sorry but you can buy a replacement caliper for under £40, so why **** about fixing a rusty one.

I can get a pair for £62, but that's not a chalange or fun, there is greater satisfaction in beating the chalange, yes it takes longer, that's not a problem.

Jason885 said:

I can get a pair for £62, but that's not a chalange or fun, there is greater satisfaction in beating the chalange, yes it takes longer, that's not a problem.

Click to expand...

Having done it both ways, and finding that the caliper being rebuilt is so rusty inside, that the dust seal (which is an absolute nightmare to install by the way) doesn't fit, I'd not waste my time on rebuild kits at again. There's no savings in cost if you're changing the piston and seals anyway, so you are much better off just fitting a pair of new calipers, and use your valuable time where you can safe money instead.

Finally after a bit of stress, heart ache and having to keep waiting for parts the freelander is back on the road with new front brakes.
What started out as a broken ABS sensor turned into a full strip out of the front hub assemblys, referb of calipers, all bolts replaced, new brake hoses, new discs and pads.
It defiantly looked as if the last time someone worked on the car only one side was touched, not good. Now I need to get the back brakes sorted but think I will just replace the lot.