The rubber/foam ring falls apart with age and the cone flaps about and makes an awful noise. Cones are often paper, yes, but treated/coated and have to get pretty damp to go bad.
I had the volume cranked up to maximum and the unit is 20 years old so I reckon the coil has separated from the cone rather than the cone separated from the rubber - won't be investigating until the weekend when the new ones should have arrived. Polypropylene cones, but you can get them in kevlar !! Mine doesnt sound like its flapping about. It just emits some kind of electrical whine when you turn the head unit on.
Hope it's not a poorly amp
Me too - although most of the components are capacitors so easy enough to change if any of them have burst or leakedHope it's not a poorly amp
speaker foam suspension surrounds were shot to hell like yours - fitted new speakers but have also ordered new 6.5" foam rubber surround kit c/w black glue from Airsoft on Ebay. Only trouble with new speakers is that the amp is bolted to the magnets on the originals
. So I either repair and refit the old ones or devise another method of securing the amp in the bass box. Long metal standoff spacers would do the trick bolted through the underside at the correct hole centres. Oh and the abs and tc lights came back on today as well Stuck the amp alloy heatsink to the new speaker magnets with double sided tape. Sticks like sh1t to a blanket. Connected it all up electrically and zilch - just an electrical whine from one of the new speakersspeaker foam suspension surrounds were shot to hell like yours - fitted new speakers but have also ordered new 6.5" foam rubber surround kit c/w black glue from Airsoft on Ebay. Only trouble with new speakers is that the amp is bolted to the magnets on the originals
So maybe the amp is duff - maybe it always has been in my ownership ? Alternatively the amp has blown because I've read somewhere that if you run the speakers with perished foam rings, the cone travel is too great and you can erode the varnish off the bottom of the voice coil as it rubs on the magnet and then shorts out which blows something in the amp.
You could buy an aftermarket amp and use that connected to your sub box and new speakersStuck the amp alloy heatsink to the new speaker magnets with double sided tape. Sticks like sh1t to a blanket. Connected it all up electrically and zilch - just an electrical whine from one of the new speakers
+1 I've had pops and whines caused by a dodgy connection in the A pillar connectorsI would also see if there's a way you can check you have an incoming signal to the amp. It could be one of the white connectors In the foot wells. There's been a couple of cases where the corrosion has caused sound system issues.
yes i'll have to check the incoming wiring. I've also found a thread on here where it was the only relay on the subwoofer circuit board that had gone faulty. I've got another subwoofer amp now from cn4x4ss to try.
yes i'll have to check the incoming wiring. I've also found a thread on Rangerovers.net where it was the only relay on the subwoofer circuit board that had gone faulty. I've got another subwoofer amp now from cn4x4ss to try.
New amp board works fine but has a smaller heatsink, so it's definitely a component fault on the old amp pcb. de-soldered and removed the relay from my old board and tested it and it switches fine once the coil is powered up so re-soldered it back onto the board - still just get an electrical buzz from one speaker. Capacitors all appear to be in very good condition but I don't really know enough about what the big blue radial choke coil does to be able to remove it and test it. Any ideas folks ?yes i'll have to check the incoming wiring. I've also found a thread on Rengerovers.net where it was the only relay on the subwoofer circuit board that had gone faulty. I've got another subwoofer amp now from cn4x4ss to try.
Electrolytic capacitors may look good but can have lost all their capacity, quite a common problem.
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