Abs fault ( the lemon strikes again)

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
A good battery is a must, but I would look at the voltage on the connector the ABS sensor plugs into.
>5v is good (mine is 5.3v on both front sensor plugs). So the abs ecu was outputting the required volts.
From memorThe sensors should present c.12kOhms resistance if they are good.
Nanocom sensor values (on a stationary vehicle) showed 2.3v on the good sensors and 0v on the one that was duff.
Do you have a Nanocom to hand?
 
DanClarke said:
A good battery is a must, but I would look at the voltage on the connector the ABS sensor plugs into.
>5v is good (mine is 5.3v on both front sensor plugs). So the abs ecu was outputting the required volts.
From memorThe sensors should present c.12kOhms resistance if they are good.
Nanocom sensor values (on a stationary vehicle) showed 2.3v on the good sensors and 0v on the one that was duff.
Do you have a Nanocom to hand?
Click to expand...
Unfortunately not - Kermit kindly used his one on my P38 last time. But i think i may as well charge the battery up and check the voltage across the battery with engine running.
 
Last edited:
12.3 isn't good, can you measure the cranking voltage? Much less than 11 and the battery is toast.
It might start, but ECUs will be getting low voltage while cranking which can give odd/random faults
You also want to measure what voltage you're getting with the engine running.. 13.8 and your battery won't last add long as it should, 14.7 is ideal
 
kermit_rr said:
12.3 isn't good, can you measure the cranking voltage? Much less than 11 and the battery is toast.
It might start, but ECUs will be getting low voltage while cranking which can give odd/random faults
You also want to measure what voltage you're getting with the engine running.. 13.8 and your battery won't last add long as it should, 14.7 is ideal
Click to expand...
13.8v when running it is :(
 
kermit_rr said:
At least it's charging. Modern batteries like a higher voltage and won't last as long.
You can replace the regulator quite cheaply if the rest of the alternator (bearings etc) is ok.. there's a few freds onnit.. search for mobiltron
Click to expand...
Yes, but, no, but...... can you change the regulator in-situ without removing the alternator and putting it on a bench? The world needs to know.
 
DanClarke said:
Yes, but, no, but...... can you change the regulator in-situ without removing the alternator and putting it on a bench? The world needs to know.
Click to expand...
I would have thought you have to take it off the car - or at least remove the plastic cover at the back - on older vehicles it just screwed in from behind lol
 
kermit_rr said:
At least it's charging. Modern batteries like a higher voltage and won't last as long.
You can replace the regulator quite cheaply if the rest of the alternator (bearings etc) is ok.. there's a few freds onnit.. search for mobiltron
Click to expand...
BOSCH 1197311549 is the part number for the 150amp regulator but can't find one anywhere on the net
 
Grrrrrr said:
You can on the oil burner although easier off. Petrol should be easy given its position.
Click to expand...
if you can find one
upload_2022-4-27_20-36-38.png
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

N
P38 abs / traction fault.
Replies
4
Views
635
Neil.ms
N
MikeFl4
P38A ABS faults and codes
Replies
17
Views
2K
MikeFl4
MikeFl4
Rockingit
Fault codes and other joyous things
Replies
14
Views
940
aj1954
aj1954
Lackingsense
Sport Air suspension/HDC fault
Replies
14
Views
964
Lackingsense
Lackingsense
H
MOT Failed
Replies
3
Views
332
Datatek
Datatek
Back
Top