I used a 3/4" drive socket and 4 feet of scaffold pole, the hub nuts undid no problem
front and rears both 192 ft/lb according to t'interweb
That's my plan - assuming the 3/4" drive 40" long breaker bar and the 32mm impact socket arrive before the weekend. CV joint kit arrived today - 36mm nut Grrrr - shame I've already changed the gaiters and the circlips both sides when I did the balljointsI used a 3/4" drive socket and 4 feet of scaffold pole, the hub nuts undid no problem
Nice one
I replaced the CV joints on mine as they were so cheap it seemed like a good idea and the reluctor rings were rusted to feck.
I'm assuming staked refers to the thin circular walled part of the nut being punched into the slot
as opposed to castellated/castle nut or castellated washer and cotter pin. None of mine had been locked that way and they looked like they've never been undone since the car was built in 2000. I'd still like to know why the rears undid easily but the fronts were stuck fast ?.
I'm assuming staked refers to the thin circular walled part of the nut being punched into the slot
Three out of four undid easily on mine the fourth require the purchase of a 3/4" drive socket and bar plus 4 feet of scaffold poleI'm assuming staked refers to the thin circular walled part of the nut being punched into the slot
Hi, I used a feeler gauge slipped between the sensor tip and the reluctor ring, then pressed the sensor down until it touched the feeler gauge. I'm going to adjust it down to a smaller gap tomorrow lunchtime and see if that does the trick - if not i'll see you Friday lunchtime
I wonder why the specification calls for no gapHi, I used a feeler gauge slipped under the cv joint dust shield and over the reluctor ring, then pressed the sensor down until it touched the feeler gauge. I'm going to adjust it down to a smaller gap tomorrow lunchtime and see if that does the trick - if not i'll see you Friday lunchtime
I completely agree, when I did the cv joint, I fitted it with back with no gap and the abs & traction control lights stayed out until I ventured above 30mph and then both came back on. Today I reduced the gap to 0.04mm, took it for a test drive and both lights stayed on. 4/100 of a millimetre (1.57 thou) isn't much of a gap. Obviously I don't know what the self setting distance is - it was an optimistic attempt to try and mimic the self setting gap in the event that the sensors were not being self set. Maybe now it has a new reluctor on one wheel and the original one on the other, the new & old reluctors are generating different strength signals ? I did check the nearside reluctor just to check that that one hadn't cracked as well. Can only be one of three things left :- faulty sensor/abs ecu/ wheel bearing. Trial and error without proper diagnostics. Maybe the Britpart CV joint hasn't got 60 teeth.I wonder why the specification calls for no gap
Too few teeth on the reluctor ring might cause the ABS to fire due to differing wheel speeds, but I doubt it would flag a fault. As long as the signal is within spec, small differences side to side should make no difference.
Kermit_rr kindly connected it up to his nanocom at lunchtime today and it came back with front o/s sensor short to another sensor. This is after 2 sets of sensors and a reluctor ring. Where do I go from here ? Is it the sensor or is it the abs ecu ? Bamboozled.
That fault is a common indication of an ECU fault. Worth checking that the connector to the ABS ECU is not wet or corroded.
That's my plan - assuming the 3/4" drive 40" long breaker bar and the 32mm impact socket arrive before the weekend. CV joint kit arrived today - 36mm nut Grrrr - shame I've already changed the gaiters and the circlips both sides when I did the balljoints
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