P38A ABS Fault on Dash, Nothing on Nanocom?

Oooops! Where's my thribble?

Grrrrrr said:

Oooops! Where's my thribble?

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With Ramsey’s Niblet the 3rd

.......nope.... it’s no good you’ve lost me....

Red Dwarf

Before they went all weird

Ok. Tested sensors voltage again. 3 showing 2.33 the other 2.35 so guess that’s all good.

Will check rings when get chance (probably Monday)

But in the mean time, could a dodgy relay or poor earth effect it at all? Just going back over stuff I’ve done around the time it started showing up as a fault. I unbolted the fuse box to get access to the battery negative wire as the clip that bolts it securely to the body was just dangling loose. Cleaned up one of the posts and bolted it to that. Put fuse box back. I have since gone back over it and cleaned the earth post for the two wires under it etc, but just wondered if it could be some thing as simple as that? But I’ve cleaned and checked everything visible.

BrenK said:

Ok. Tested sensors voltage again. 3 showing 2.33 the other 2.35 so guess that’s all good.

Will check rings when get chance (probably Monday)

But in the mean time, could a dodgy relay or poor earth effect it at all? Just going back over stuff I’ve done around the time it started showing up as a fault. I unbolted the fuse box to get access to the battery negative wire as the clip that bolts it securely to the body was just dangling loose. Cleaned up one of the posts and bolted it to that. Put fuse box back. I have since gone back over it and cleaned the earth post for the two wires under it etc, but just wondered if it could be some thing as simple as that? But I’ve cleaned and checked everything visible.

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Maybe one of the connectors under the fuse box has backed out a little?

Datatek said:

Maybe one of the connectors under the fuse box has backed out a little?

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Have checked, but think will get the old electrical contact cleaner out again and clean everything up and push every thing fully home. Won’t do it any harm and will at least stop me wondering.....

knew I was being optimistic. Re went over all the wiring to fuse box, cleaned all conectors, checked all home properly, cleaned relay connections etc.....
and no difference at all.
Will start on checking rings tomorrow.......

was Worth check to be sure first

RangeRoller dt said:

was Worth check to be sure first

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Exactly....... that’s why I decided whilst the sun was out this evening that I would dig out the Abs Ecu (whose bright idea was it to fill the floor with 600 million polystyrene balls!!) Finaly got to it and unbolted it ( again, whose idea was it to put a bolt at the top in the centre of the ecu where you can’t see it and is bloody awkward to get too!)
End two molex plugs where in nice and tight and were a struggle to get out, the middle one, however, didn’t need the clip depressing and pulled straight out. Could it really be that? Cleaned connections with electrical cleaner, pushed all plugs back in nice and tight....... turned ignition on...... no Abs Fault, hurrah!! Bolted it back into place, put trims back.......drove off......and light went out. Result!!! Something so simple, I can’t believe it will last. Could something have “stuck” or frozen on the ecu, and unplugging it has reset it?
Any way for now at least another job ticked off.
On to the next............
Coolant leak from thermostat housing, new seal on way, will change stat whilst at it.

Check your stat when you get it. Sometimes they need a squeeze by hand before they will start to open properly - dip it in boiling water on a wire before fitting make sure it works.

LR original stats (and BMW ones) have a valve that goes at the top (12 o’clock) to prevent air getting trapped.
Only 3 bolts but you have to move few things to get at it

RangeRoller dt said:

Check your stat when you get it. Sometimes they need a squeeze by hand before they will start to open properly - dip it in boiling water on a wire before fitting make sure it works.

LR original stats (and BMW ones) have a valve that goes at the top (12 o’clock) to prevent air getting trapped.
Only 3 bolts but you have to move few things to get at it

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Cheers. Know it’s awkward as had a go at nipping bolts up whilst I had Egr pump out.
Any special way of bleeding system afterwards, or just usual procedure?

BrenK said:

Exactly....... that’s why I decided whilst the sun was out this evening that I would dig out the Abs Ecu (whose bright idea was it to fill the floor with 600 million polystyrene balls!!) Finaly got to it and unbolted it ( again, whose idea was it to put a bolt at the top in the centre of the ecu where you can’t see it and is bloody awkward to get too!)
End two molex plugs where in nice and tight and were a struggle to get out, the middle one, however, didn’t need the clip depressing and pulled straight out. Could it really be that? Cleaned connections with electrical cleaner, pushed all plugs back in nice and tight....... turned ignition on...... no Abs Fault, hurrah!! Bolted it back into place, put trims back.......drove off......and light went out. Result!!! Something so simple, I can’t believe it will last. Could something have “stuck” or frozen on the ecu, and unplugging it has reset it?
Any way for now at least another job ticked off.
On to the next............
Coolant leak from thermostat housing, new seal on way, will change stat whilst at it.

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If the plug was not fully home, it was probably the cause of your problem.

Can now start to understand why these P38's have the reputation they have......
after sorting ABS light yesterday. Tackled Thermostat tonight. Pig of a job, but got there in end. Filled it all back up, bled system, all nice and hot, and no more leak....
Go back into car to switch off Engine.....only to notice SRS light is now on. WTF!! Turned off. Back on again and yep SRS light comes on as normal, goes off.....then Back on again. It seems this car doesnt like faults being fixed as every time I fix one thing, something else completely unrelated goes wonky.
Packed away for tonight.....start again tomorrow night...

Im glad you’ve worked that bit out early on

You are lucky it’s an SRS light probably due to an insignificant bulb or connection, low battery even, but nothing serious. Annoying - yes

RangeRoller dt said:

Im glad you’ve worked that bit out early on

You are lucky it’s an SRS light probably due to an insignificant bulb or connection, low battery even, but nothing serious. Annoying - yes

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Best not do it during the MoT test!

Got to be a loose connection / bulb.

Grrrrrr said:

Best not do it during the MoT test!

Got to be a loose connection / bulb.

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I guess there is a senor(s) at the front of the car in the engine bay is there? Can only guess water has got in somewhere when I pulled the Thermostat out? Because I didn’t touch anything else.
Will have a look later.

BrenK said:

I guess there is a senor(s) at the front of the car in the engine bay is there? Can only guess water has got in somewhere when I pulled the Thermostat out? Because I didn’t touch anything else.
Will have a look later.

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On early cars, there is an SRS sensor on each front chassis leg, yellow boxes so easy to see. Later cars have the sensors inside the ECU.

Datatek said:

On early cars, there is an SRS sensor on each front chassis leg, yellow boxes so easy to see. Later cars have the sensors inside the ECU.

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Mines later model, 99. So can rule that out then. Just don’t understand how every time I fix something, something else immediately pops up.

BrenK said:

Mines later model, 99. So can rule that out then. Just don’t understand how every time I fix something, something else immediately pops up.

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That's RR ownership!

Or could be low volts. Low volts causes all sorts of issues.