abs again

well the lights are still playing funny bug gers they go off as they should when I drive to the sons playschool then on the way home the lights come on when driving or if I stop at the shop then head home other times they will stay off for more than 12 miles then come on I have tried cleaning the sensors again but they still play up its getting me thinking of selling the hippo as its peeing me right off

What lamps come on and what colour? A code read on the abs computer will help tell you what's happening.

ABS = yellow
ETC = yellow
HDC fail = yellow
HDC information = green

Hi Hippo I know the lights come on showing faults it was tested before and it was the front nearside sensor that was faulty I have replaced it but the lights still play up as I said before I have just moved them all and its working again but for how long are they going too work this time they are a stupid design

They may seem stooopid but they only come on when something is wrong. Intermittent problems are always the worst. It's betterer to know there's a fault with the brakes than not. See how it goes. If they come back something is wrong so investigate further.

Hi Hippo I know what you are saying but its not really anything with the actual brakes that's causing the lights to keep coming on its the sensors or some other electrical fault that is causing the problem as the brake shoes and front discs and pads are all new its got me puzzled

The abs tries to improve braking and braking stability when it activates if it senses it's required. Faults with abs sensors stop the system from seeing it needs to operate. The speed of the wheels is compared to the longitudinal accelerometer (G sensor). It's also looking for different wheels at different speeds. Hence why abs sensors are reported as error light faults.

An abs computer code read will tell you what is at fault, or at least what's reported to be at fault.

By using the chart above, you can narrow the fault down but ultimately it needs it's codes read.

Hi Hippo I did have it tested by a 4x4 garage the fault was front nearside sensor I replaced it and its still the same it was an ebay sensor I will have to get another one but don't want to pay £144 for it just to do the same blooming thing

scarecrow243 said:

Hi Hippo I did have it tested by a 4x4 garage the fault was front nearside sensor I replaced it and its still the same it was an ebay sensor I will have to get another one but don't want to pay £144 for it just to do the same blooming thing

Click to expand...

Did you push the sensor all the way to the reluctor ring? They need to basically touch. Some recommend letting the sensor drag on the ring as it will wear in.

Hi Nodge68 I did push the sensor in fully I have also cleaned all of them it dose work for a short time then starts mucking about again

Do you have a multimeter or volt meter?

Hi Hippo yes I have a multi meter they all read ok on the ohms and give voltage when a bit of metal is passed back and forth in front of the sensor

Be wary of ebay specials...I had 3 of them fail on me in not such a long space of time.....The places that offer a warranty on sensors usually are ok....so far so good for me....mine all started to go high resistance to eventually failing open circuit...but this took time and meanwhile I was getting the 3 Pedro's.....without a code scan you will be chasing your out ass, belive me...

I got my good sensors from a seller on ebay called volksbits_england

thanks Jedi ill have a look

have you checked the ring for damage ,cracks ,I had this and turned out to be the ring at fault ,just an option hope you fix it soon

If it were mine I would...

With the engine/ignition oft disconnect the yellow inline connector for the problem abs sensor. Put a volt meter or multimeter on the 2 connections to the abs sensor. Lift the problem wheel and turn it. Compare the measurements from you bad wheel to a good wheel. Turn the wheel at the same speed and compare volts generated. You will need the AC volts setting. You will have to lift both wheels on the same axle pair to be able to turn the faulty one, or lift both wheels on the same side and release the handbrake. Also put the gearbox in neutral for side/side lifting or 2x front lifting wheels. Don't forget to chock the wheels.

As above broken rings cause a problem and the spacing seems to be critical. The volts picked up may give an indication of the air gap if you can get a precise measurement.

It's perhaps not everyone's cup of tea but it's what I would do as a diy test (after plugging in me hawkeye).

freelander1958 said:

have you checked the ring for damage ,cracks ,I had this and turned out to be the ring at fault ,just an option hope you fix it soon

Click to expand...

Can you see the rings fully without taking the wheel oft or will turning the wheel allow you to see the whole ring? Just interested. Ta.

you can only see the ring if the sensor is removed or a harder way is the inspection hole underneath

You get a better look at the rings from underneath.As said the inspection hole....you need to jack up the front or rear to be able to spin the wheel thou.

the sensor setup on the freelander has got to be the worst design ever I have cleaned them again and again today I was trying to get the three amigos too work properly and would you believe it after going thru a little bit of mud on the farm road I took one of the rear sensors out and it was covered in mud on the face of it no wonder the bludy things don't work land rover should fix all the motors