Freelander 1 aaaaagh f4 and hdc

hi gents

just a quickie before I commit to a gearbox change:

the td4 auto is flashing f4 and an amber hdc is illuminated,

now do I commit to what the " specialist " said which was "easiest way to solve this is by changing the box, we know a guy who will do a box for about 350 (sh) and the labour is about 300"
or is there anything else I can investigate first? this was reached as the diagnosis even though he was unable to get the box to "talk" to his diagnostic stuff

650 -700 quid is a lorra lorra dosh

I dont fancy swapping the box out myself on the drive alone but I can pick a box up for 200 myself !!! it is the jatco and is identical to the rover 75 one so that isnt a problem.

Any ideas appreciated. I have looked at the connectors and they seem fine, havent checked the brake switch yet and god knows when the box last had a fluid change, the car is a 56 plate hse. the fault is sometimes not apparent until I have driven a mile or so and sometimes straight on,

Gearbox is not the same between Freelander and Rover 75 due to the 4WD

Best bet is to get someone to read fault codes with Freelander specific diagnostic equipment such as T4 or Autologic to determine what is causing the F4 issue - is there any other signs of an issue with gear changes etc or just the F4?

As above. F4 and HDC isn't necessarily a fault of the gearbox. It could be a bad electrical connection on the CAN BUS for instance. The F4 and HDC are generated by two completely different ECUs. It could even be an Ipack ECU fault.

I definitely wouldn't condemn the box yet. £350 is way to cheap for a box worth fitting anyway and as td4van said. The Rover 75 Jatco is very different to the FL1 Jatco. They share some common components, but the casings and final drive stages are completely incompatible.

As said. Get the codes read by a proper diagnostic device, before proceeding any further.

Search some of hippo's extensive gearbox threads, especially the "f4" one!

right can anyone pointme at a definitive procedure pref with pictures of the bloody level and drain plugs for this box?

I have discovered that the brake switch was rogered so I will get a new one of those asap, I am going to flush the sodding box with new atf but I really would like to see exactly which is the drain plug as all I can find on here is horror stories and worry, yes I will get t to temp and yes I will follow the procedure I just want to be sure which bloody plug is which before I knacker a box that might be savable.

at the mo it goes into limp and f4, I have squirted the ****e out of the barell connectors to no avail, the box also wont go into sport before the f4 flashes

the f4 appears mainly straight away when warm but will sometimes do half a mile, someties less before it comes on from cold.

Ta in advance

Gordon

I would suggest that the brake light sensor fault and F4 are connected. The gearbox ECU (TCM) needs to know when the brake pedal is being pressed. If it can't determine what the brakes are doing, it will flag a fault.
Like I said in a previous post. The HDC and F4 are likely connected. If the brake sensor is fubared, then that's the link.

Hippo has done extensive posts on the Jatco box on here.

It's not a complicated process to drain the box. The drain is a large drain type plug. It's 22 or 24mm iirc. The level plug is a 5mm Allen head bolt, most of the time. There's a bolt that is 15 or 17mm that MUST NOT be undone. This holds the reverse band in place.
The fill tube is at the front of the box, on top of the sump pan. It's plugged with a rubber bung.
You'll need a way to measure the box temperature. An infrared thermometer is what I use.
You also need the correct fluid. This is Texaco N402 or a compatible like Carlube ATF-U. You'll need just under 5 litres for an initial change.

box needs a change anyway, I have to say the horror stories are a bit ott I looked here http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=53

how the F^^^ does anyone mistake those two????

as for temp I will do what I saw on the ashcroft site and use a kiddies head thermometer, ten gegrees allows for a large margin of error so it shouldnt be a problem
the brake switch had a loose/snapped contact inside it
will let you know how it goes