A very sad day indeed...

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Buz said:
Out of curiosity, where did you get it MOT'd last year? Surely if it is this bad they should have started finding things last year?
Good luck with the journey :)
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Same place. 12 months of green laning, a winter of salty roads and driving round the fields of the leeds festive trying to find my stepdaughter (I've never known mud like it) have all taken their toll since then. There was no advisory for rust last year but I guess it's my job to keep an eye on the rust progression. Lesson well learnt.
 
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Doey68 said:
Thanks Landyfox. I've looked at that welder, thanks for the recommendation it looks just the job. how long do the gas canisters last?
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I'd be amazed if three small bottles from Halfords was not enough to complete the job. Alternatively you can rent a medium sized bottle from your local supplies. I paid in the region of £50 for bottle and £30 for a regulator. Personally start with one of the small bottles from Halfords at £14 and make an educated assessments from there.

I appreciate the whole job appears overwhelming at the moment, but simply break it down in to manageable tasks and you will be through it very quickly
 
Doey68 said:
Thanks Landyfox. I've looked at that welder, thanks for the recommendation it looks just the job. how long do the gas canisters last?
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Not long if you need as much welding as you state. Try and get a large bottle and proper regulator. As Al says, record everything as you strip it down for future reassembly. My choice would be to save for a new chassis. If you have no welding skills you really dont want to be practicing on a chassis. Its a lot of work stripping it down and putting it back together only to have it fail a couple of years later with rust showing through elsewhere.
 
I'm considering a chassis swap in a couple of years. I emailed Richards Chassis' this week enquiring about VIN stamping. Apparently they don't do it any more. Any ideas where I could get a chassis stamped?
 
mikerajjers said:
I'm considering a chassis swap in a couple of years. I emailed Richards Chassis' this week enquiring about VIN stamping. Apparently they don't do it any more. Any ideas where I could get a chassis stamped?
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It's a slightly tricky grey area. The general advice is to not stamp, keep the receipt of the new chassis and cut out and keep the stamp from the original chassis.

Some people choose to stamp them themselves but it's not strictly legal.
 
Doey68 said:
The rust is quite extensive and will need some strip down to weld up. The garage declined to give a quote for welding. I've just looked for a mobile welder and can't find one locally. Anyone know one up here? My parents house is in Burnley Lancs. I'd always planned to have her rebuild on a galv chassis but not for another 2-3 years. Thanks for the advice.
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There is a sign at the side of the road on the helmshore to holcome road and a phone number. Bin there for years. Not too far away.
 
blue beasty said:
It's a slightly tricky grey area. The general advice is to not stamp, keep the receipt of the new chassis and cut out and keep the stamp from the original chassis.

Some people choose to stamp them themselves but it's not strictly legal.
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I would probably stamp it myself... as I'm not ringing it or doing anything dodgy I don't think anybody would ever know. However, I have no idea whether the land rover VIN font is a generic stamp. I've had a look at the VIN, the letters are a bit wonky which means I don't need to be dead straight, but I'd like to at least get the correct letters.
 
blue beasty said:
It's a slightly tricky grey area. The general advice is to not stamp, keep the receipt of the new chassis and cut out and keep the stamp from the original chassis.

Some people choose to stamp them themselves but it's not strictly legal.
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Alternatively get a set of letter punches and stamp everything several times. That way its only a security exercise.

Dont stamp the windows. Use an etch kit. :p
 
mikerajjers said:
I would probably stamp it myself... as I'm not ringing it or doing anything dodgy I don't think anybody would ever know. However, I have no idea whether the land rover VIN font is a generic stamp. I've had a look at the VIN, the letters are a bit wonky which means I don't need to be dead straight, but I'd like to at least get the correct letters.
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I would try for the correct size and font, but iirc it is quite large so getting a good hit in the right place and hard enough to get a good imprint may not be easy. IMO, If I was buying a rechassied vehicle , if it does not look right it raises concerns in the provenance, where as if it has a receipt but no number and the old chassis section included at least that makes sense.

Cheers
 
No stamp might bring up questions but if you have the receipt and old number you have all the answers.

Questions raised by a dodgy stamp might be trickier to explain.
 
I read an article in one of the land rover monthlies where they repaired a D2 chassis and then had it galvanised. I'll need to check how bad/good my chassis is and maybe strip it and galvanise it as is. It looks pretty good other than the rear cross member
 
A lot of us have been there ,so feel your Pain.
I spent just over 2 years doing mine, mostly under a polytunnel tent at the back of the house
doing bits when i could get the funds together, but kinda went way, way over board!
But I now, have no intention of selling her.
So If you can get the funds together, get it welded, and start saving ya pennies!
Also, look at it in a positive way, another Landy gets saved.
Plenty of people on here will give you great advise, so don't be afraid to ask.
If i had my time again, I would of done a rolling resto.
GOOD LUCK
 
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mikerajjers said:
I'm considering a chassis swap in a couple of years. I emailed Richards Chassis' this week enquiring about VIN stamping. Apparently they don't do it any more. Any ideas where I could get a chassis stamped?
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In other words you don't need it...

You can buy a second hand chassis if it's any good then get it shot blasted and galvanised
 
mikerajjers said:
stamping tool...quite a lot for one chassis, but looks professional http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Portable-Pneumatic-Dot-Peen-Marking-Machine-150-x-50mm-New-4-Pop/192109467742?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=2&asc=41396&meid=a9434fa26b5f4d2a8fd2e2f1b1682bca&pid=100005&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=311547670248
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Didn't explain well but at Mot in this country they would look at the number for instance on the Discovery td5 it's left hand side of the windscreen
 
This community is fantastic. Thank you to all for your advice. Don't worry, I will be asking very many questions that, if it were not for the fact that there is no such thing, would be stupid ones.
I'm much more confident in what I need to do than I was earlier today. Thank you all.
Yes, ideally a rebuild on a galv chassis would be best and add more value, although detracting from originality.
It's not happening yet. I'll do that in the future and I don't mind that part of it will be redoing what I'm about to do now.
Here is my plan of attack.
I'm going to strip her down further than I really need to just so that I can see all the bits of the chassis that I need to.
I'm going to buy a welder and working from the worst bits to the best I'm going to patch the chassis. Then I'm going to hunt for thin bits of chassis that are the next points of failure and cut and plate them. I'm going to paint the whole chassis with rust preventing primer and chassis paint. Then I'm going to coat the inside with that waxy oily stuff. Whilst she is stripped I'm going to do the clutch, wheel bearings, swivel housing bearings (yes I know that she doesn't need to be stripped down for me to do those but whilst I've got the work space...) go on then... give me a list of what I should do whilst I'm there and I'll see what I can afford to do (prob not more than I've already said). There are so many things that I want to do but I don't want her off the road for years.

The next question is:-
Flux core welding without gas v MIG (MAG) welding - Discuss.
 
Things to think about before you start welding !
First if you can see lots of rust, There will be loads of rust and shelling you cant see !
Second how much time and money are you going to spend buying welder, gas, wire, Plate Steel and Disc's Paint/wax or Galv not to mention time ?
Third compare above to Cost of Richards Chassis
Forth and the worst one !!! If you are doing a full rebuild and intend to keep the car you will be replacing or rebuilding all the parts as it is not worth the effort unless you do as buying a replacement car is cheaper ! Sorry :(
 
Doey68 said:
This community is fantastic. Thank you to all for your advice. Don't worry, I will be asking very many questions that, if it were not for the fact that there is no such thing, would be stupid ones.
I'm much more confident in what I need to do than I was earlier today. Thank you all.
Yes, ideally a rebuild on a galv chassis would be best and add more value, although detracting from originality.
It's not happening yet. I'll do that in the future and I don't mind that part of it will be redoing what I'm about to do now.
Here is my plan of attack.
I'm going to strip her down further than I really need to just so that I can see all the bits of the chassis that I need to.
I'm going to buy a welder and working from the worst bits to the best I'm going to patch the chassis. Then I'm going to hunt for thin bits of chassis that are the next points of failure and cut and plate them. I'm going to paint the whole chassis with rust preventing primer and chassis paint. Then I'm going to coat the inside with that waxy oily stuff. Whilst she is stripped I'm going to do the clutch, wheel bearings, swivel housing bearings (yes I know that she doesn't need to be stripped down for me to do those but whilst I've got the work space...) go on then... give me a list of what I should do whilst I'm there and I'll see what I can afford to do (prob not more than I've already said). There are so many things that I want to do but I don't want her off the road for years.

The next question is:-
Flux core welding without gas v MIG (MAG) welding - Discuss.
Click to expand...


You can buy bits of chassis from various companies - like crossmember, rear quarter etc. It may save you time and effort instead of cutting smaller bits and welding. I've been looking into chassis paint and treatment and am almost set on getting the por-15 (frost.co.uk). There are some good videos on youtube with good reviews on American forums. They sell some inside chassis protection on the same website...take a look if you have time.

As for flux core welding...I bought myself a welder but haven't taken it out of the box yet :) You can get some that can work as both flux core and shield gad. I've never welded anything either (yet). At the end of the day, I'm sure you will be able to manage it.
 
OK,

MIG, all the way and use decent gas, but make sure you have decent shelter .

I would look at this way, even if you do not change the chassis this time, it is a good opportunity to strip and fix anything else , also all the bolts can be either copper slipped or renewed , rebush. Following this , when you save the dosh to rechassis, you can strip it and rebuild it with as little hassle as possible, i have heard of a guy doing it in a weekend.

Cheers
 
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