A nice simple job

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Langers

Langers

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,162
Location
Kent or Shropshire
Changing the water pump on a 300 Tdi Disco, nice easy job right? Have it done in an hour?

Not for me :mad:

Everything going just dandy until I get to the LAST bolt on the pump itself, the one right at the bottom. Initially using a 10mm 1/2 inch drive socket, I couldn't get it to budge, and then it rounded off.

So I've been into town specially today to pick up some of these;

[ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=asc_df_B0000CCXVZ2994686?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B0000CCXVZ]Irwin Bolt Grip Remover 5PC Base set 394001: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools[/ame]

And credit given where credit's due, the 10mm one did grip very well, I was able to put a LOT of pressure on it to try and get it out, but eventually it too started to round off :mad:

I'm now at a loss, with the amount of force I put into it, I can't see anything getting it out, not with how mangled the head is now. :(

Anyone got any bright ideas? :D
 
hit it hard lots of times try again weld nut to it or large washer then nut if hard to get good weld either way it will need hitting to crack rust gripping it
 
jamesmartin said:
hit it hard lots of times try again weld nut to it or large washer then nut if hard to get good weld either way it will need hitting to crack rust gripping it
Click to expand...

Cheers James, I've thrown in the towel for now. Will give it a good ****tin' tomorrow, and then try and file it down? Probably have to file all the way down to 8mm, I reckon it's past 9mm now.

What about trying to heat it up? Worth a try?
 
you really only want heat from welder alot of ali around ,dont file nut hammer socket or remover on hard after plenty of whacking,rad or cooler out if you cant get good hit ,you dont want to snap bolt in block,it worth copaslipping those 3 bolts when refitting as you never know, if you hit enough head will swell
 
you could try the old trick of sticking a blow torch on it for a bit?

Or just drill and re-tap?
 
With all the other bolts removed is it possible to move the water pump a few degrees in either direction? Maybe that would help loosen it... or else a small drill mayhap?
 
Langers said:
I'm thinking it's probably going to come to re-tapping. Can't see myself getting this thing out now, not with how mangled the head is.
Click to expand...


Been watching this progress, Have you tried a left hand drill bit, they do work quiet well. Before you start get a drift punch hit the broken stud a couple of times real good, then center punch your mark and start drilling. when the bit grabs it'll take out the stud. At this time in the game you nothing to lose. Good luck
 
Grind the head of the bolt off and remove the waterpump. You will now be able to spray penetrant oil down the bolt shaft hole and get a stud extractor tool on the shank. Tapping it like knocking a nail in as jamesmartin says helps to crack rust/corrosion as does tightening up slightly first. Undo a bit then tighten up all the way out. Replace the rusty bolts with chrome or cad plated ones and copious coppa-slip.
 
GRATCH said:
Grind the head of the bolt off and remove the waterpump. You will now be able to spray penetrant oil down the bolt shaft hole and get a stud extractor tool on the shank. Tapping it like knocking a nail in as jamesmartin says helps to crack rust/corrosion as does tightening up slightly first. Undo a bit then tighten up all the way out. Replace the rusty bolts with chrome or cad plated ones and copious coppa-slip.
Click to expand...

Thought you broke off flush with the block. Gratch is right
 
if you remove the bolt head and get the pump off there are a few more options
i find a large stillson pipewrench ideal for removing studs....
or you can weld a teebar to the end of the stud, or even just weld good nut on to get a socket on
 
Ryder said:
With all the other bolts removed is it possible to move the water pump a few degrees in either direction? Maybe that would help loosen it... or else a small drill mayhap?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've tried this already. It does move but it doesn't seem to loosen anything. When I was using the bolt gripper, I put so much pressure on it that I actually saw the head move anticlockwise very slightly, but when it started to round off, it sprung back to its original positon. Shows you how rusted the thread is! I was quite surprised actually, seeing as every other bolt came out with minimal effort.

GRATCH said:
Grind the head of the bolt off and remove the waterpump. You will now be able to spray penetrant oil down the bolt shaft hole and get a stud extractor tool on the shank. Tapping it like knocking a nail in as jamesmartin says helps to crack rust/corrosion as does tightening up slightly first. Undo a bit then tighten up all the way out. Replace the rusty bolts with chrome or cad plated ones and copious coppa-slip.
Click to expand...

Cheers Gratch. By stud extractor, which type do you mean? There seem to be two types, one seems to involve drilling a small hole in the end of the bolt/stud, and screwing something in;
[ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Expert-45856-5-Piece-Extractor/dp/B0001K9UEG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1306445149&sr=8-4]Draper Expert 45856 5-Piece Screw Extractor Set: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools[/ame]


And the other seems to screw onto the end and twist it out somehow?

[ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-14156-2-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Extractor/dp/B0001K9Q1S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1306445205&sr=8-1]Draper 14156 1/2-Inch (6-19 mm) Square Drive Heavy-Duty Stud Extractor: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools[/ame]

As I don't own either of these tools, which type do you reckon is more suitable for this job?

jamesmartin said:
tapping it also relaxes tension on bolt ,any bolt if hit enough will eventually become loose except for one in flexi bush
Click to expand...

Will try this first before doing any grinding. Worth a try I spose

Cheers all for your replies :)
 
as said first type no good unless desperate in extreme the others no better than vice grips as you will need to ensure you dont shear stud off in block
 
Thanks for the input people :D

After another few hours of struggling with this bastard of a bolt, I ended up grinding the head off and leaving the stud there. I've now fitted the new pump, just slotting it over the stud - and so far so good - no leaks and good water circulation, had it up to full running temp etc.

So for now, this is good enough - however if it does start to leak at any point in the future, I will be doing it properly, and drilling/retapping the bugger! :D
 
Put a stainless washer over the remaining stud and weld a length of thread to it - remove the washer ( washer stops welding to the engine) and then trim the thread to size.
 
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