A-Frame balljoint replacement

After reviewing Busterbus's excellent posting titled 'Á-Frame balljoint renewal', and after reading the replys to my earlier enquiry on this topic, I though I'd give it a go on my Discovery 1.

I cleaned up and sprayed the nut threads with a penetrating product for about a week and more.
I ran into a big problem however . A standard shape socket will not go on to the nut as it fouls with the diff housing on a Disco 1 (insanity to design it this way ).



I could not buy a reduced shoulder socket, so what I did was to use an angle grinder to grind down a standard socket. I also shortened it a bit, as it was too long.

I was then able to at least get the socket on.

I used an extension bar as shown in photo. It would not budge even with using a lump hammer on the end of the extension bar.


As suggested in Busterbus's post:-
- I tried an impact driver, but no go.
- I then applied MAPP gas torch and heated it up considerably, then sprayed it again, and tried the usual things but no go.

I then resorted to a cold chisel on the castellated part of the nut. But no go. However, I now think I have damaged the thread as you can probably see on the lower left corner of photo.
If I had a Dremel, I could cut of the damaged portion of the castellated nut and thread.

Lessens learnt: Don't use a cold chisel.

As I cannot get a nut splitter on to it, and after spending 1/2 a day on it (including mods to 30mm socket), I suspect that my only choice is to take the vehicle to a professional and let them get it off (but I really don't like doing that when I should be able to do it myself).

Does anyone have any other ideas ?

(Thumbnail below shows reason for changing joint, i.e. split boot)

Hacksaw and elbow grease?

Saw it, straight down the middle so the nut ends up in two bits

Use one of these DeWalt DCS380N 18V XR Li-Ion Cordless Reciprocating Saw (Bare Unit) - Machine Mart

If you are changing the joint anyway why worry about damaging the threads?

I don't want to try to teach you how to suck eggs, but if you have never been shown how to get a nut off with a hammer and chisel, don't try and knock the nut round to undo it. The idea is initially to go at it as though you are trying to split the nut, the blade of the chisel in line with the thread. Only after the nut has a big "V" in it should you try and undo the nut. Usually by the time you have a nice big "V" in the nut it will undo easily or just drop in half.

waldershelf said:

If you are changing the joint anyway why worry about damaging the threads?

I don't want to try to teach you how to suck eggs, but if you have never been shown how to get a nut off with a hammer and chisel, don't try and knock the nut round to undo it. The idea is initially to go at it as though you are trying to split the nut, the blade of the chisel in line with the thread. Only after the nut has a big "V" in it should you try and undo the nut. Usually by the time you have a nice big "V" in the nut it will undo easily or just drop in half.

Click to expand...

+1 a decent hammer and sharp chisel will remove any nut

hitting things under car = broken teeth
sawing is easier

Thin drill bit drill holes through side of nut try not to go into the bolt and then T##T it with a good chissel....Tony

why chisel it?

If you had a socket on it use that. use a longer bar or a pipe to turn it.

splitting a nut with a chisel isnt particulary difficult and should be done stright through center of a flat it doesnt damage threads and in situations like A frame ball joint nut arent many better options,was part of a list of things shown to me during my apprenticeship

isn't he replacing the threaded bit?

yes, but splitting nut works if you want to save thread too

jamesmartin said:

splitting a nut with a chisel isnt particulary difficult and should be done stright through center of a flat it doesnt damage threads and in situations like A frame ball joint nut arent many better options,was part of a list of things shown to me during my apprenticeship

Click to expand...

Porsche 911 catalytic converter securing nuts rot and eventually fail resulting in a blowing exhaust. They are a pain to get to and a socket usually just rounds the head off, the place I used to work we always replaced them at service time if they looked iffy. A hammer and sharp chisel had them off with just two or three well placed blows. The die grinders or gas axe some of the guys would use just isn't necessary if you know what you are doing.

As a very young man, being shown how to use a hammer and chisel by a 50+ year old pipefitter to flog 3/4" Whitworth nuts/bolts out of ancient pipework flanges, outside in filthy weather stood on a rickety scaffold is a lesson I have never forgotten. It makes working on Land Rovers in a nice heated garage seem relatively easy.

waldershelf said:

working on Land Rovers

relatively easy.

Click to expand...

I can't believe I just posted that

Thanks very much every one. I am replacing the whole joint with an adjustable one, so damage to the thread was not an issue (other than just making it harder for me to get the nut off). I have to admit, I always thought the idea with the cold chisel was to try and rotate the nut. Now I know better.
It is very hard to swing a lump hammer underneath but I'll give it a go with putting a V in it (and try not to break my teeth).

With respect to the sketch below, what is the correct method please: option 1 (V in top) or option 2 (V in side) ?



Merry Christmas.

Jason F said:

Thanks very much every one. I am replacing the whole joint with an adjustable one, so damage to the thread was not an issue (other than just making it harder for me to get the nut off). I have to admit, I always thought the idea with the cold chisel was to try and rotate the nut. Now I know better.
It is very hard to swing a lump hammer underneath but I'll give it a go with putting a V in it (and try not to break my teeth).

With respect to the sketch below, what is the correct method please: option 1 (V in top) or option 2 (V in side) ?

View attachment 53560

Merry Christmas.

Click to expand...

Option two, one is likely to bugger the threads... out of interest, what time and date is it down there now [ 0130 27/12/13]?

option 2

Thanks. In Sydney its now 7:00pm Friday 27th (yes , I'm a bit late with my Merry Christmas).

Jason F said:

Thanks. In Sydney its now 7:00pm Friday 27th (yes , I'm a bit late with my Merry Christmas).

Click to expand...

Cheers,

Jason F said:

Thanks very much every one. I am replacing the whole joint with an adjustable one, so damage to the thread was not an issue (other than just making it harder for me to get the nut off). I have to admit, I always thought the idea with the cold chisel was to try and rotate the nut. Now I know better.
It is very hard to swing a lump hammer underneath but I'll give it a go with putting a V in it (and try not to break my teeth).

With respect to the sketch below, what is the correct method please: option 1 (V in top) or option 2 (V in side) ?

View attachment 53560

Merry Christmas.

Click to expand...

Option 2 is the way, most nuts will actually split remarkably easily. Use a nice sharp chisel and a hammer whose weight and shaft length are comfortable for you to use and carry enough force to do the job.