A bit confused

Turbo actuator maybe leaking? Noise is the clue, 2800 is about turbo kick in. Why not dis the pipe to the actuator from the solenoid and block it, power will be down but if noise goes then you have eliminated the Vac system to the solenoid and actuator / solenoid remain to be checked.

The solenoid is brand new but the actuator on the turbo hasn't been checked. I can see it move when revved (10mm or so movement) I'll try disconnecting it in the morning and see what happens. Got so many cuts and scrapes today shower food and bed is all I can be bothered with today haha. Cheers for the advice mate. I'll keep you posted

The annoyed one said:

Got so many cuts and scrapes today shower food and bed is all I can be bothered with today haha.

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You missed out beer!

There is a whiskey sitting waiting for me to get dressed. Haha.

The thing with the weird wooshing noise is it only does it from time to time. When it does the lesser of the two warning lights come on. Clear the code. It may do it again 5 mins later or it can be a few days. Never really looses power when it does. No boost leaks that I can find. Sometimes the code is overboost. Other times it is underboosting. It's why I'm so confused as to what on earth is going on .

we are all confused on here don't worrie its normal

Hahahahaha

Would a dirty MAF sensor cause any of the symptoms I listed in my original post.

Run with it disconnected as ecu then adopts default values. Any improvement then change the maf.

Right. Ran without vac pipe connected to turbo. Same symptoms. Ran with MAF disconnected. Same symptoms. Gave up. Took to local landrover specialist. They tried a few bits to no avail. On cold start injector 2 runs rich, injector 3 runs lean for 2 or 3 seconds then these level out. The software says this boost problem can be related to an ECU issue or turbo. Tomorrow's project is going to be to remove exhaust from turbo (can't wait for that job haha) and use a specialist cleaner I have purchased to see if its sticking vanes in exhaust part of turbo. If this doesn't solve the issue I will be looking at ECU replacement .Mainly questions on if an eBay secondhand tested ECU is purchased what would I need to do to get it to work with my current vehicle or are they just a plug in and away you go type setup

Check the cat for blocking. It's been known for them to block up almost solid.

I'll give that a look when removing exhaust. I want to fit the decat pipe I got with my stainless exhaust but don't know how friendly my local mot station is yet

The annoyed one said:

I'll give that a look when removing exhaust. I want to fit the decat pipe I got with my stainless exhaust but don't know how friendly my local mot station is yet

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A visible de-cat will often fail the MOT. But removing the guts from inside the original cat is difficult to spot.

Cat was pretty clean. Looked fairly new tbh. Regardless it's no longer on the vehicle till September and m.o.t at least haha. Cleaned turbo using revive as had good results on my td5 disco with that. Car feels perkier but still has underboost/overboost fault codes flashing up although no longer goes into limp mode. Took my father out for a drive after doing revive treatment and he seems to think the odd noise I've been hearing is a turbo bearing despite me thinking it sounds like an air leak. When he pointed that out it made sense as to the sound. The revive treatment made the noise more repeatable rather than intermittent as it had been previously.