90 swerves sometimes when i press cluth ??

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gas

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sometimes at speed when i go to change gear my 90 seems to swevre to the right any body got any idea where to start. im new but enjoyin it all. thanks
 
Straange. Technically it shouldn't effect anything because all the torque is coming straight down the propshaft which is then distributed to the wheels, it's not like you have a separate clutch for each wheel is it! Do you have free-wheeling hubs just out of interest?
 
No ye dont coz i got the same but landy but its a 1990.
if you have the engine off and the front end jacked up so the wheels are off the ground do you have movement in the steering column before the wheels start to turn?
If so you could have a steering box problem or the joint half way down the column in shagged
 
I'm not 100% sure if and whether or not Land Rover fitted free wheeling hubs as standard at all (don't they have to be added as an aftermarket product?) but it could well be that your right side free wheel mechanism isn't quite as free as your left hand side, hence the drifting to one side. It's only a theory, but it's all I can think of! The only way to tell is to jack the front end up, one wheel at a time or both together, doesn't matter, but make sure that the car is in gear with the hand brake on. Spin each wheel, if it spins and continues to spin, you have free wheeling hubs. If it spins so far and then stops / bounces back, they aren't free wheeling. If they are free-wheeling, obviously then you can try and identify and differences between them and the time that it takes for them to slow from free wheeling to a stop. If there's a dramatic or noticeable difference ie. one side spins and takes ages to slow, where as the other one slows quickly, there's your problem!

Oh, another theory is that you turn the wheel very slightly without realising!
 
cheers ill have to check for free spinning . isee where to start now but my trolly jack at mothers. (whish see would return tools when she finished).maybe i could take 90 over and leave with her she has the jack
 
I had the same thing a while back, turned out to be the bushes on the rear trailing arm/radius arm or whatever it's called. It was the bushes at the forward end, where the arm goes onto the chassis and has a big washer on both sides and a big nut. The wear was allowing one side of the axle to move back and forward when you put the power on and off or dipped the clutch, it was kind of steering from the rear! Might be worth a look at that.
 
POS, if you had freewheeling hubs on a defender you woulndn't go anywhere. They disengage the front wheels, so you would sit there quite happy til you select difflock, which defeats the object.

Are you sure its not (an i know this sounds like im taking the ****) that you are just taking your left hand off the steering wheel to select a gear? Or levering sub-conciously against the steering to select a gear?

Cos if it was bushes, i would expect it to do it when under power or on the overrun also.
 
boydy1989 said:
POS, if you had freewheeling hubs on a defender you woulndn't go anywhere. They disengage the front wheels, so you would sit there quite happy til you select difflock, which defeats the object.

Are you sure its not (an i know this sounds like im taking the ****) that you are just taking your left hand off the steering wheel to select a gear? Or levering sub-conciously against the steering to select a gear?

Cos if it was bushes, i would expect it to do it when under power or on the overrun also.
Click to expand...

I always thought that they worked on the same principle as a free wheeling bike hub. They can take the drive but once the drive from the propshaft has stopped, the wheels continue to spin freely as opposed to being "slowed down" with the gears?
 
pos said:
I always thought that they worked on the same principle as a free wheeling bike hub. They can take the drive but once the drive from the propshaft has stopped, the wheels continue to spin freely as opposed to being "slowed down" with the gears?
Click to expand...

How would you reverse? :confused:
 
pos said:
I always thought that they worked on the same principle as a free wheeling bike hub. They can take the drive but once the drive from the propshaft has stopped, the wheels continue to spin freely as opposed to being "slowed down" with the gears?
Click to expand...


In older LR's, i.e. series, they were rear wheel drive most of the time. However, when you are driving, you are still turning the front axle, diff and propshaft, cos you are turning the front wheels round with the road.

The freewheeling hub idea is to disconnect the front wheels from the axles, so that you aren't spinning it all all the time, so therefore you save a 'bit' of fuel.

You also tend to find your axle siezed through not being turned for months/years, and then when you really need it engaged it won't turn, or shreds itself.

Also the fuel saving is usually minimal.

As you can see though, on a full time 4wd system they are redundant.
 
What about bad ball joint bearings? If theres stack in it, when the drive pressure is on, it will tend to pull one way, when you relest, it will go the other. Try driving strait on a motorway or somthing, and whilst letting the steerining wheel go loose (not too loose!), go full power, then no power with the drive engadged, and see if it pulles in a different direction when you just relese the power.
 
Am sure I'll get shot for this but have heard that series Landies will suffer wandering due to a rotten bulkhead.

Does any one know if this affects later Landies ??

May be worth a look tho if everything else that has been mentioned appears to be O.K.
 
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