90 or disco?

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Adem Emir said:
what would be a down side to a body lift on a disco for example, obviously upside be ground clearance and bigger tyres...

would it be worth getting chassis treated and how much work and pound notes would this entail.
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Worse on side slopes, unable to get under low branches, higher COG, worse road handling, propshaft wear if you have a big lift and no double cardons.

Chassis painting or Waxoyl etc. is one of the best ways to spend time and money on either disco or def.

Adem Emir said:
BFGoodrich AT was my 1st choice of tyres. so i think for practicallity i'll get a disco (family purposes) with BFG AT, maybe sum and fuel tank, and track rod gaurds to start with.
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BFG are good tyres and most like them, maybe a mud instead of AT if you want to do a lot of pay and play or trials.

Guards will do little harm, and may actually put more weight low down. I had a steering guard on mine for a few years, took it off as I realised it didnt have any dents on it. I was carrying the weight all the time for nothing, and it made some servicing jobs more awkward. Lent it to Mart now.
 
Discokids said:
Looks good up that ramp Tim!!
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Another on a ramp lol
FB_IMG_1441888310846.jpg
 
Personally I prefer the 200 but you have more choice with the 300 and they are a little more refined(well it's all relative) and you can still pick them up cheap, but which ever you choose budget in for buying a decent welder as you will need it unless you've got deep pockets.
 
Turboman said:
That is an able looking job! :)

Might not be everyones choice for a daily driver, though! :D
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Not everyone's cup of tea lol, its my daily but only live a short distance from work, all caster corrected for the lift ( 4" ) also 2" body lift, 35's on beadlocks, no anti roll bars, Ashcroft air locker front and rear and shafts, back converts to double bed :) so great for weekend laning trips
 
thats same as me the furthest i go is 30miles up motor way every now and then i only work 4 miles from home and use then motorbike for that lol. Tim that would be my ideal motor except as i said paint colour lol how much roughly that set u back ( ball park figure) if you dont mind me asking.
 
Adem Emir said:
thats same as me the furthest i go is 30miles up motor way every now and then i only work 4 miles from home and use then motorbike for that lol. Tim that would be my ideal motor except as i said paint colour lol how much roughly that set u back ( ball park figure) if you dont mind me asking.
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Probably put about 4k into it after the purchase price of vehicle lol been done over a few years to be honest
 
Discokids said:
Body or suspension lift = higher centre of gravity meaning worse on-road handling, increased wear on suspension bushes and propshafts.

Big knobbly tyres = more on road noise, use more fuel, potential to damage lovely scenic green lanes.

Just a few cons.
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18" wheels road oriented ATs, went down lane, came across slippery mud by a ford, went through no issue.

All I did was low ratio and diff lock
 
dizzytim said:
Not everyone's cup of tea lol, its my daily but only live a short distance from work, all caster corrected for the lift ( 4" ) also 2" body lift, 35's on beadlocks, no anti roll bars, Ashcroft air locker front and rear and shafts, back converts to double bed :) so great for weekend laning trips
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Being able to sleep in the back would be a nice feature. One thing I miss about my old 109. Ninety is never going to be comfortable for sleeping.

You wouldnt be able to drive a lot of the lanes round here in that. Some places the rocks are rubbing the sides of a standard Ninety, others there are gateways you wouldnt fit through, some are interference fit vegetation! :D
 
Well thanks for all the advice, think im going to have to take the adult option and get the disco and going to put decent set of tyres on to start with then go from there comfort and road noise wont be a problem as i only work down the road.
 
Not sure, D1 just because its slightly shorter in length, But D2 cos its little newer but then again do i want a newer landy if its a off road machine, going to have to do bit more research i think
 
Adem Emir said:
Not sure, D1 just because its slightly shorter in length, But D2 cos its little newer but then again do i want a newer landy if its a off road machine, going to have to do bit more research i think
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D1 are okay, but old now, watch out for rust, and tired engines/trans. Not much more room inside than a defective, but a tad more quiet and comfortable.
D2 also go over chassis with a fine tooth comb. They are all prone to electronic hiccups, TD5 needs to be a good un, or big bucks.

I have a V8 Auto D2, I love it. Some excellent deals around on them, for those who dont do high mileages. I only use it for towing, but it would be fine off road with BFG muds. And you can sleep in the back! :)

Avoid the later ones, after 2001 is 400 quid road tax, early ones are £230.
 
Turboman said:
D1 are okay, but old now, watch out for rust, and tired engines/trans. Not much more room inside than a defective, but a tad more quiet and comfortable.
D2 also go over chassis with a fine tooth comb. They are all prone to electronic hiccups, TD5 needs to be a good un, or big bucks.

I have a V8 Auto D2, I love it. Some excellent deals around on them, for those who dont do high mileages. I only use it for towing, but it would be fine off road with BFG muds. And you can sleep in the back! :)

Avoid the later ones, after 2001 is 400 quid road tax, early ones are £230.
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My 2003 is around 280
 
Adem Emir said:
what are the common faults with TD5? i do like the thought of a V8 just not sure on running cost
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There are a few, but keep them well maintained and you should be fine.

Common faults
Oil in injector loom (replace loom not expensive)
Leaking injector seats, 3 possible issues.
1) Air in fuel, washers under injectors (cheap fix)
2) Crack in seat, fuel in oil (weld head (£150) or new AMC head £1100)
3) seals failed, fuel in oil (cheap)
Oil leaks, front bung, loose filter, cam seal all easy
Knackered MAF, buy OEM not a cheap one
 
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