90 handbrake Problems

Hi, I'm having trouble with my handbrake. I've just changed the output shaft oil seal and handbrake shoes. I've adjusted everything correctly I think, the brake works fine but the drum still seems to be rubbing on the shoes in one place. The drum gets extremely hot on the move, could it be warped? I don't like the price of new ones!!

Why not back the adjuster off 'till it dosn't bind?

Tried that, seems to work but it means that the handbrake lever has loads of clicks before it's fully on. I think it should only be 4 clicks before the brake is on and I'm a bit worried that it won't pass the MOT with too much travel. I've adjusted the play in the cable too.

omen911 said:

Hi, I'm having trouble with my handbrake. I've just changed the output shaft oil seal and handbrake shoes. I've adjusted everything correctly I think, the brake works fine but the drum still seems to be rubbing on the shoes in one place. The drum gets extremely hot on the move, could it be warped? I don't like the price of new ones!!

Click to expand...

They can be bent by bashing onto rocks - or more likely lifting with a trolley jack.
If you've tried all the normal adjustments try having is skimmed in a lathe to remove any ovality.

I wouldn't worry to much about the hand brake, there isn't really as far as I am aware there is no limit as to how many clicks untill it locks (infact there should be no clicks, because you push the button in while applying the handbrake).

I have seen a few Defenders where the handbrake lever almost looks broken because it sits so high, now that must in terms of clicks be about 6/7 clicks!

I would get rid of the rubbing obviously, but if it means you need to pull the lever further, then fear not!

because you push the button in while applying the handbrake).

Click to expand...

Someone else who presses the button while applying the handbrake. The amount of people that don't and d'you know I find it realy irritating, then they've got the cheek to ridicule me 'cos I do!!

Quote
HANDBRAKE CABLE
Service repair no - 70.35.25
Remove
1. Park vehicle on level ground, chock road wheels
and release handbrake. Alternatively, raise
vehicle on ramp.
2. Remove 3 trim studs and lift up handbrake
gaiter.
3. Remove split pin, clevis pin, washer and
disconnect cable from handbrake lever.
4. Slacken off transmission brake drum adjusting
screw.
5. Disconnect propeller shaft from output flange.
6. Remove retaining screw and withdraw brake
drum.
7. Release handbrake cable clevis from abutment
on cable lever, see J6337, and pull through
aperture in back plate.
8. Pull cable from heelboard and remove from
vehicle.
Refit
9. Feed new cable through heelboard ensuring
rubber grommet is correctly located.
10. Position cable over guide plate, insert through
backplate and connect to cable lever.
11. Fit cable to handbrake lever and secure with
clevis pin and split pin.
12. Fit handbrake gaiter.
13. Fit brake drum. Tighten screw to 25 Nm (18
lbf/ft).
14. Screw in and tighten adjuster bolt until brake
drum will not rotate by hand.
15. Tighten adjuster bolt further to 25 Nm (18 lbf/ft)
to ensure brake drum is locked.
16. Slacken off adjuster bolt by 1.5 turns to give
brake shoes running clearance. Check that the
drum is free to rotate.
17. Slacken locknut and adjust cable to give the
handbrake pawl two notches free movement on
the rachet before being fully operational on third
notch (brake shoes are fully expanded against
drum).
NOTE: Cable adjustment is for a new cable
or to compensate for cable stretch. Cable
adjustment must not be used to take up
brake shoe wear.

Happy Rovering
Tony

Thanks for all the advice, seems I am worrying unduly. I'll let you kow when it's sorted.

Damian