90 clutch help!

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s underwood

s underwood

New Member
Posts
218
Location
hertfordshire england
i have spent most of today trying to get the clutch working on a 90 the prob was the fluid was leaking out around the master cylinder i replaced thjs with a new one (what a stupid place to put a bolt) i have bleed it through ajusted the peddle but still only get the clutch to bite right at the end of its travel should i bleed it again or what. thanxs for any ideas.
 
From the info you have given, it does sound like you need to bleed it again. What's your method for bleeding it?
 
i crack the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder as the clutch is slowly pushed down then once at the bottom i do the nipple up then the clutch is let up and do the same again.
it took ages for the fluid to come through after the master cylinder was replaced,
 
s underwood said:
i crack the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder as the clutch is slowly pushed down then once at the bottom i do the nipple up then the clutch is let up and do the same again.
it took ages for the fluid to come through after the master cylinder was replaced,
Click to expand...

Try pressure bleeding it. Needs two people. Get one to depress the clutch while the other opens the nip. When the fluid stops coming out shut the nip. The person on the bleed then tells the person on the clutch to its ok to lift up and pump. You then start again with the person holding the clutch down, whilst you bleed the fluid.

This has two benefits.

1) The system is always closed on the up stroke, so no air can be drawn backward into the lines.

2) With the system under pressure, as you open the nip the fluid rushes out at speed. This helps carry air bubbles through the lines.


Hopefully you can understand my instructions. They are perhaps not the most concise.

Chur
 
Aye, pretty much the same as above. When ah did mine with the help of me neighbour, ah pumped the pedal by hand quite quickly tae get the fluid through. Then it was a case of usin' a mirror tae see the reservoir and toppin' up as needed as me neighbour opened the bleed nipple for the down stroke and closin' it fur the up stroke while shoutin' tae each other what we were doin';)

In other words... it would be best for the person doin' the nipple to say when to push down on the pedal when it's open... person on pedal holds it down until told to lift it when the nipple is closed;)

Not forgettin' tae have a piece of hose from the nipple into a jar with some fluid in it;)
 
Last edited:
Or buy one of them pressurised one man (whoops not very PC) one person bleeders fill the bottle with fluid attach other end to reservoir and attach air feed pipe to tyre valve. then simply open bleed nipple until all the bubbles is gone. and retighten nipple.
 
thanxs for thar chaps just phoned a friend he is comming tomorrow to help shall do whar you say some one said that a small hose over the bleed niple would help prevent air going back into the line is this worth bothering with
 
redhand said:
Or buy one of them pressurised one man (whoops not very PC) one person bleeders fill the bottle with fluid attach other end to reservoir and attach air feed pipe to tyre valve. then simply open bleed nipple until all the bubbles is gone. and retighten nipple.
Click to expand...

They are "ok."
Have worked with them in a profesisonal environment and stopped using them. They are ok to prime the lines, but they dont seem to be able to bleed somthing truely solid.

Regards
 
s underwood said:
thanxs for thar chaps just phoned a friend he is comming tomorrow to help shall do whar you say some one said that a small hose over the bleed niple would help prevent air going back into the line is this worth bothering with
Click to expand...

yup - stick tube into bottle with some brake fluid in it so it cant draw air back into the system.
 
redhand said:
Or buy one of them pressurised one man (whoops not very PC) one person bleeders fill the bottle with fluid attach other end to reservoir and attach air feed pipe to tyre valve. then simply open bleed nipple until all the bubbles is gone. and retighten nipple.
Click to expand...

Ah tried one of them before and they wur crap! That was usin' a spare wheel pumped up tae the recommended pressure fur the kit anaw!
 
redhand said:
Or buy one of them pressurised one man (whoops not very PC) one person bleeders fill the bottle with fluid attach other end to reservoir and attach air feed pipe to tyre valve. then simply open bleed nipple until all the bubbles is gone. and retighten nipple.
Click to expand...

i know were i can borrow one shall grab that as well just incase thanxs
 
Chur said:
They are "ok."
Have worked with them in a profesisonal environment and stopped using them. They are ok to prime the lines, but they dont seem to be able to bleed somthing truely solid.

Regards
Click to expand...

My fooker has. It's done front and rear brakes including bleeding out a complete front calliper stripdown and rebuild. and a clutch slave cylinder bleeding. it's bleeding awesome.. :D
 
bustersbus said:
Ah tried one of them before and they wur crap! That was usin' a spare wheel pumped up tae the recommended pressure fur the kit anaw!
Click to expand...

I just pumped mine up to 50psi and connected the bugger. Had to redo all the seals cos they were ****e. but Always having a box of plumbing gear around meant I had plenty of ****e to use.
 
s underwood said:
thanxs for thar chaps just phoned a friend he is comming tomorrow to help shall do whar you say some one said that a small hose over the bleed niple would help prevent air going back into the line is this worth bothering with
Click to expand...

Aye, as ah mentioned above;):D
Whoever is workin' the nipple needs tae make sure the pipe is in the fluid at all times.... as well as workin' the nipple:D
 
redhand said:
My fooker has. It's done front and rear brakes including bleeding out a complete front calliper stripdown and rebuild. and a clutch slave cylinder bleeding. it's bleeding awesome.. :D
Click to expand...

True.
I find they do about 95% of the job. Saves a lot of leg work. Though to get that last bit you need to do it old skool.
Try it on a non servo assist brake system, where the pedal should feel bullet hard. TMHM may know where I'm coming from!?! Depends if he works on that GTD.
 
redhand said:
I just pumped mine up to 50psi and connected the bugger. Had to redo all the seals cos they were ****e. but Always having a box of plumbing gear around meant I had plenty of ****e to use.
Click to expand...

It was me neighbours one ah borrowed and ah'm sure he said summit about only stickin' around 10psi through it..... mind you, it's bin a while since ah tried it;)
 
redhand said:
Or buy one of them pressurised one man (whoops not very PC) one person bleeders fill the bottle with fluid attach other end to reservoir and attach air feed pipe to tyre valve. then simply open bleed nipple until all the bubbles is gone. and retighten nipple.
Click to expand...

Silly thought.....where's the rest of the fluid from the system going to go if ye fill the bottle?
Surely ye just part fill it untill the pipe is covered and keep an eye on it so it doesn't over flow and spurt out?
 
bustersbus said:
Silly thought.....where's the rest of the fluid from the system going to go if ye fill the bottle?
Surely ye just part fill it untill the pipe is covered and keep an eye on it so it doesn't over flow and spurt out?
Click to expand...

Main bottle has 2 pipes one lets the air in. tuther pushes fluid up into the brake/clutch reservoir which is sealed by the cap. Fluid can't go anywhere until you crack the bleed nipple.
 
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