79 109 hartop camper build .

I wired up the ignition live to a siren. Do it through a 3 way switch so you can choose either to start it or arm it. If someone hit wires it,it will still go off
Etch every glass panel even head lights.
You can get a lock that stops the handbrake from been released.
As for line lockers,make sure the mot man can’t find it as unsure if these are permitted.

Cheers for that. Im seeing the pics and recognise whats there but stumped at how you join them together

Ref the line lock I dont think they are permissible for the MOT , So long as its all genuinely sound and safe the fella that does them is pretty realistic, not in any way lenient mind you .. will check with him before I plumb it ..

auld duffer said:

Cheers for that. Im seeing the pics and recognise whats there but stumped at how you join them together

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What you need to do is ask @Bobsticle to make you 1 & put it in the post

Now there's an idea ..

Take the 12v live from your car battery and send it to the live terminal of the PIR but at any point you wack in a diode so the currant cant flow back to the vehicle battery.

Close to the PIR you splice in the poz from the battery pack with yet another diode so the pixies cant get to the pack. Bridge this diode with a 1K ohm resistor to allow a trickle charge (this is very low and would take a couple of weeks to charge the pack but it wont be used very often so this is very safe).

Take the trigger live and dedicated trigger earth from the PIR to both your siren and blue police strobes. The PIR has a switch for how long the trigger is active when tripped.

The battery pack and PIR are earthed to bodywork as normal.

Basically the whole gubbins works off 12v but as the battery pack has a slightly lower voltage its charge stays where it is until the 12v is removed. The battery pack then takes over running the alarm. The diodes are there to stop the little battery pack trying to charge the vehicle battery in the case of it flattening or the vehicle ramming 12 volts into the battery pack and setting it on fire.

You will obviously have to have a switch to activate it but this should interrupt both batteries.

I can’t make you one coz I don’t know how your going to fit it or wur.

Cheers for that info. I understand the tech but I have zero experience with gizmos electronics , The diagram makes it look pretty easy though . My buddy is a bit of a whiz with this stuff so I can run it past him to keep me right and stop me burning down the garage . Im pretty sure he will even have the diodes and such like in his stash.

Chances are I will fit it in an obscure site so its less less visible and prone to tampering .

Thanks again,.I will definitely keep you posted on this when I fit it.

auld duffer said:

Cheers for that info. I understand the tech but I have zero experience with gizmos electronics , The diagram makes it look pretty easy though . My buddy is a bit of a whiz with this stuff so I can run it past him to keep me right and stop me burning down the garage . Im pretty sure he will even have the diodes and such like in his stash.

Chances are I will fit it in an obscure site so its less less visible and prone to tampering .

Thanks again,.I will definitely keep you posted on this when I fit it.

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It shouldn’t cost more than £20 for everything.the diodes are about a quid for ten.

auld duffer said:

I will definitely keep you posted on this when I fit it.

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If it's any good, he'll hear it....

Great thread, awesome work and work-rate too. My new year resolution is to learn how to do some decent welds, rather than having it look like I've just sneezed .

Well, more crap arrived today, well actuually not crap but decent parts . Got the galvanised door tops , and seals/ channels , various rubber seals and a pair of headlight bowls to replace the rotted originals .. fitted the pedal boxed and heater box and fan, looked out a few odds and ends and ceaned them up and worked out where they went . Nipped into town to pick up some nuts n bolts and washers before lock down. fitted the passenger door and adjusted the hinges busting a captive into the bargain. So hinges will come off and the captives replaced with stainless fittings.. I got those a few days ago , decided they werent really needed then discovered they were ..lol.. dropped in the galv door tops to check fit, fitted the pass side sills, to check fit , and buggered about loking for odds and ends , then made a list of jobs to do to get me bak on track ..

Went out after tea and did a bit more to the new lower dash.. Cheated here as its a bit of a hybrid between new and old parts . Decided it would be quicker to salvage some bits off the rust remains rather that make it all from scratch which would really take far to long for what the bits are for .. Just got the end caps to remake/ repair and jobs a good un .. looked out some upholstery foam Ive had laying about and the remains of some sound deadener matt .

Selected a small list of relevant jobs from the big list of jobs, so hope to knock some of them off on Thursday ..

I know I really shouldnt be building it back up untill its painted but to be honest getting the bits on the car and out the way will free up more space , I will just be a bit more conscious of masking so the black bits dont get coverd in overspray . Fitting the bits lets me get on and make a bit more progress. Its never gonna be a show car, its supposed to be a practicle daily ( I dont usually go anywhere for weeks at a time so call it a weekly ) Just personal transport, so as long as its tidy I will be happy enough .. Its shaping up to be pretty decent . Ive replaced more than anticipated, but thats kinda normal with these type of jobs . I think Im still under budget and nobody is more surprised than me regarding that.. I havent added it up though, and probably never will ..

If I can get a few more jobs knocked off this week Im going to shoot for next week to get the body sanded , and primed with a view to painting it toward the end of next week if all goes well and I done run out of heating gas. I doesn't last long I can tell you that ..

P.S I will be fitting new pedal rubbers as well, bang goes the budget...

I made some seals for the pedal box to bulkhead and heater box to bulkhead from an old commercial inner tube ., where required at the heater box, I doubled up, and it worked really well . Ive got some neoprene seal material for the floorpans but its crap, Will probably buy some strip rubber for the purpose .. Trying to keep in as much water as possible

It's looking great and you're really cracking on. Well done.

Just ticking things off the list today. Brake pipes buttoned up and all secure , clutch pipe made up and secured , Turned down a brake pipe nut to secure the passenger side flexi , got fed up looking for one, so made it instead .. secured a few trim type bits to the bulkhead where the wire look passes through. checked the props and convinced myself that the UJs were actually fine, no play so OK will grease them up as a matter of course but I thing replacing unworn original ones for new chineseum ones will just be doing the job for the sake of it . If it aint broke as they say .. I did have them blasted a while back so primed them up ready for paint . made a new metal cover with rubber seal for the steering column where it comes through the dash .. That's really all I did today .. lazy bugger .. Transferred a few things from the big list to the do now list so just got to keep focussed really .. knock off a wee bit everyday . Will have to order paint on Friday , fingers xd they will still be open . not sure half a litre will cut it .. Plan to put just a wee bit more paint on it than Landrover did

I came across a video of a fella who put a fancy sound deadening matt set in his series. The finished job looked really tidy, then found a link to here and saw the astronomical cost of the mats Over £300 .. geez.. Have to admit they did look smart and fitted well but the price is way off the affordable extravagance budget.. Im thinking magic tree money..

Since you have been so patient with me here and I value your input , im going to ask where do you folks think the colour split should be on this old tub ? colours will be Marine blue and Limestone. Im not sure if a split above the tub rail or just do it all marine blue with a limestone roof .. Also the door tops, body colour or raw galv ? The rear door and body side glass will be tinted probably dark gray or 70% black ..

This is how I like them. Obviously a bit bluer in your case.

Hold on picture didn't upload for some reason. Wait there.

Sorry about that.

cool, thats the look ]

Oh no! The responsibility! If you don't like it when it's done you can't blame me ok.

It’s my choice for a series. Limestone roof is a bit later. The colour was to duplicate a tilt after all.