6-Wheel Drive Discovery II - Am I totally mad ?

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Hi every body I am Tonybell and have just bought an ex MOD 2006 Defender RHD 110 Snatch 2 Armoured for the simple reason it will never rust and has only done 8300 miles. Only problem is I never realised the windows don't open as they are bullet proof and about an inch thick and one is very foggy so I need to replace the glass. Has any body got any ideas. Does not have to be bullet proof. Will any Defender door fit my Defender?

Why oh why did you post that here...dont answer please...just spend some time reading through ALL the forum sections...
 
Hi every body I am Tonybell and have just bought an ex MOD 2006 Defender RHD 110 Snatch 2 Armoured for the simple reason it will never rust and has only done 8300 miles. Only problem is I never realised the windows don't open as they are bullet proof and about an inch thick and one is very foggy so I need to replace the glass. Has any body got any ideas. Does not have to be bullet proof. Will any Defender door fit my Defender?
Without derailing this thread, the answer is no. The doors are modified with more robust hinges due the the extra armour weight, are a slight different profile because how the armour changed the shape of the body. Once the glass delaminates it is for the scrap. IIRC, the doors are one piece, but the glass is sandwiched to them. So your best bet would be to pop out the window and either get some glass cut to size, or plexi.

When the windscreen delaminates it isn't road legal. So you'd have to look into getting a windscreen made to replace the armoured glass. Hope you have deep pockets for that as a custom cut windscreen isn't going to be cheap.

Why would you want a Snatch anyway? They are nudging 4t and you're still moving it with a bonestock 300tdi and stopping with bonestock brakes. They drive like **** too. There are better ways to avoid rust. But good luck with it.
 
Without derailing this thread, the answer is no. The doors are modified with more robust hinges due the the extra armour weight, are a slight different profile because how the armour changed the shape of the body. Once the glass delaminates it is for the scrap. IIRC, the doors are one piece, but the glass is sandwiched to them. So your best bet would be to pop out the window and either get some glass cut to size, or plexi.

When the windscreen delaminates it isn't road legal. So you'd have to look into getting a windscreen made to replace the armoured glass. Hope you have deep pockets for that as a custom cut windscreen isn't going to be cheap.

Why would you want a Snatch anyway? They are nudging 4t and you're still moving it with a bonestock 300tdi and stopping with bonestock brakes. They drive like **** too. There are better ways to avoid rust. But good luck with it.

@Tonybell please dont answer here ask in correct section...
 
Well yes, it has been too long since I did an update, both online and on the vehicle. I have 3 projects on the go of which this is the biggest, but the other two are also borderline crazy so it's hard to give this old girl the attention she deserves.

I did decide many months ago that the time had come to lift off the body and get the chassis properly sorted against rust etc and sort out the wiring and piping issues to a show standard, but that's kind of where I left it. I have a regular D2 rolling chassis to hold the body shell while it's off (plus some additional support for the bigger than usual rear overhang !). But have never really come up with a satisfactory method to lift the body off. I don't have access to a ramp which would make this a simple job, so I've been trying to figure out the best way to do this. The idea is to lift the body up (it's need 22" of lift to clear everything), slide the 6-wheel chassis out and the 4-wheel one in - job done. But I'm nervous about every method I've come up with for lifting and supporting the body shell during the chassis rolling exercise. I've got myself a couple of hi-lift jacks which can easily and quickly lift the body the requisite 22" at various points, but I need something that will then support the body at this new height (now 46" off the ground) without any possibility of it collapsing.

Additionally, there seems to be undue flexing around the join of the two donor bodyshells. Some of the points around where the two halves meet especially on the roof (which is steel) have cracked quite badly and I need to get that resolved urgently. I suspect that lifting and moving the bodyshell is only going to make this worse.

Paint_Crack_1.jpg


Paint_Crack_2.jpg


At the very least this needs to be repaired (and washed ! :)), but I think I also need to look at either reinforcing the join or using a more flexible paint

Anyway, I am going at this now with renewed vigour, so expect to see many more posts of the next few weeks and months !
 
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