P38A 4.6 Thor lockout/Nanocom issues. Help needed please.

Hi guys. Just bought a Nanocom Evo to try and help with the lockout problems i've been having.
Lockout originally caused by battery discharge. Cause found and fixed I think (RF receiver disconnected) I have the following issues so perhaps some kind soul(s) can answer my queries?

1/ Now my EKA will not work on the key perhaps a lock issue as the boot and central locking won't work either... Is this normal for a lockout?
2/ With the nanocom I have tried to disable both the alarm and EKA temporarily so I can at least get the thing started. But after writing files and going back into settings it appears that the alarm and EKA have been changed. However, after switching the Nanocom off the BECM reverts to original settings. The BECM is unlocked. Am I doing something dopey? Ignition was in position 1 for this.
3/ I have tried to enter the EKA directly into the Nanocom but this has no effect? Again perhaps I'm doing something wrong.
4/ Should I have a fully charged battery? as the old one is goosed and I'm using a (decent) powerpack which is also on charge.

Any and all help suggestions would be great as the bloody thing is starting to take root.

TIA,
Martin.

Martin H said:

Hi guys. Just bought a Nanocom Evo to try and help with the lockout problems i've been having.
Lockout originally caused by battery discharge. Cause found and fixed I think (RF receiver disconnected) I have the following issues so perhaps some kind soul(s) can answer my queries?

1/ Now my EKA will not work on the key perhaps a lock issue as the boot and central locking won't work either... Is this normal for a lockout?
2/ With the nanocom I have tried to disable both the alarm and EKA temporarily so I can at least get the thing started. But after writing files and going back into settings it appears that the alarm and EKA have been changed. However, after switching the Nanocom off the BECM reverts to original settings. The BECM is unlocked. Am I doing something dopey? Ignition was in position 1 for this.
3/ I have tried to enter the EKA directly into the Nanocom but this has no effect? Again perhaps I'm doing something wrong.
4/ Should I have a fully charged battery? as the old one is goosed and I'm using a (decent) powerpack which is also on charge.

Any and all help suggestions would be great as the bloody thing is starting to take root.

TIA,
Martin.

Click to expand...

You have a problem with the CDL switch on the drivers door lock. You can only disable EKA and immobiliser in BECM diagnostic mode. Connect Nanocom with ignition off. Go to BECM. You should see a message on the dash "Diagnostic mode". Make your changes then go back a page and write them. Switch off Nanocom and switch on ignition. Changes should have been made.

Thanks Wammers I'll have a go shortly.

Martin H said:

Hi guys. Just bought a Nanocom Evo to try and help with the lockout problems i've been having.
Lockout originally caused by battery discharge. Cause found and fixed I think (RF receiver disconnected) I have the following issues so perhaps some kind soul(s) can answer my queries?

1/ Now my EKA will not work on the key perhaps a lock issue as the boot and central locking won't work either... Is this normal for a lockout?
2/ With the nanocom I have tried to disable both the alarm and EKA temporarily so I can at least get the thing started. But after writing files and going back into settings it appears that the alarm and EKA have been changed. However, after switching the Nanocom off the BECM reverts to original settings. The BECM is unlocked. Am I doing something dopey? Ignition was in position 1 for this.
3/ I have tried to enter the EKA directly into the Nanocom but this has no effect? Again perhaps I'm doing something wrong.
4/ Should I have a fully charged battery? as the old one is goosed and I'm using a (decent) powerpack which is also on charge.

Any and all help suggestions would be great as the bloody thing is starting to take root.

TIA,
Martin.

Click to expand...

You are flogging a dead horse unless you have a really good, fully charged battery IMO.

Datatek said:

You are flogging a dead horse unless you have a really good, fully charged battery IMO.

Click to expand...

You're absolutely right. Just put a partially charged battery on and I now have most of my central locking back. I was able to enter EKA as well. So far so good but not enough Oooomph to start her. Will have to get a new battery before I go anty further. I still have no boot lock but will address that later. I suspect the tailgate lock as I checked the drivers door lock microswitches and all good there.

For tailgate check BECM fuse 15. Tailgate lock should be active with doors unlocked.

wammers said:

For tailgate check BECM fuse 15. Tailgate lock should be active with doors unlocked.

Click to expand...

Thanks again Wammers. Handbook says Fuse 14 on mine but checked 15 anyway. Both intact and all the other items on those circuits are operating correctly. So I'm guessing it'll be the actual switch?
Is there an easy way of testing the circuit between drivers door and tailgate, wondering if corrosion on a connection somewhere might be a possibility?

All sorted now. Thanks for your help chaps. Much appreciated. Wammers, you are indeed a legend.

martyuk has done a sheet of lock tests. Best get a copy and keep them handy in case you ever have lock/tailgate/EKA issues again.