P38A 4.6 hse

Hi all, anyone out there near langport Somerset, at my wits end with this rangie, dead door no window or mirror, got eka lockout, fob flashing ok, won’t accept eka, tried ignition sink, cleaned plugs in door jam, all was well until I got a flat battery, central locking not working, willing to pay if anyone can sort it, Dave

Trojan69skin said:

Hi all, anyone out there near langport Somerset, at my wits end with this rangie, dead door no window or mirror, got eka lockout, fob flashing ok, won’t accept eka, tried ignition sink, cleaned plugs in door jam, all was well until I got a flat battery, central locking not working, willing to pay if anyone can sort it, Dave

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Sounds like you have micro switch problems in the drivers door lock or the block connectors behind the A post kick panels are corroded, best cut them out solder and heat shrink the wires. Hopefully you can open the drivers door,there is a switch test write up by @martyuk ,don't know wether its in the technical archive, if not do a search.

I’ve checked both, cleaned out both connectors and the micro switches seem fine, clean and clicking properly

Are you absolutely 100% positive and without a doubt sure that you entered the EKA code totally correctly? I dont mean just the correct code

Followed exactly how you are supposed to do it, but what I’m not sure about is if the door is dead will it still take the code?

Trojan69skin said:

I’ve checked both, cleaned out both connectors and the micro switches seem fine, clean and clicking properly

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Have you checked the microswiches as per @martyuk check sheet?

Here is marty`s lock test sheet

Thanks for that buddy, appreciate your help

If nothing works on the door, you might have door outstation problems. The pin connections look the same in RAVE, so maybe swap the left & Right ones over to see if the window & mirror faults move across. If the other one works, and microswitches are good, then you might be able to enter the EKA successfully.

If you have a simply continuity checker, then verify all of the connections from Latch to Outstation, and Outstation to BECM are good.

This diagram should be all the connections you need to check.

Thanks for the diagram, I’ll run though that 2mo, I have another p38 that I pinch bits off and swooped the working outstation off that but still no joy

Trojan69skin said:

Followed exactly how you are supposed to do it, but what I’m not sure about is if the door is dead will it still take the code?

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No, needs all 3 microswitches working.

@PastyMuncher might be close to you. Think he might have a Nanocom.

Do you think it’ll be ok if I contact him?

Trojan69skin said:

Do you think it’ll be ok if I contact him?

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You can always ask. Obviously with all the restrictions you'll have to make sure you obey all relevant rules.

Hi all, I heard that it’s possible to send my becm, key fob and door latch off and have it reset, if it is possible anyone know anyone who can do it? Much appreciate all your help

Before you send anything away, it better to check the door latch, outstation & wiring continuity. If you don't have one, buy a cheap multimeter from your local Screwfix, B&Q, etc. e.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-mas830b-digital-multimeter-600v/75337

Then check continuity between the BECM & Door Outstation, plus follow the latch tests posted above. From your description that window, mirror & locking all don't work, it sounds more like BECM to Door communications, or 12V & Ground issue to the door. Window should work even if the latch is broken.

After that you will have a better idea what needs fixing. Once you get the communications & latch working, then you can try the EKA. The BECM only needs reset if its' memory has been corrupted.

The door latch is a plug and play, no programming or reset possible.
It is just metal latches and switches.
Callrova can go over you becm but without good reason it's money out the window but not in your case

Hi all, spent about half hour on the car today cos my patience is getting very thin on this motor, I’ve discovered that I’m only getting power to the large plug on the outstation, the right one if you’re looking from left to right, any thoughts on what’s going on all you rangie nuts out there? Much appreciated all

I may be wrong but from what i remember the outputs from the becm are negative voltage if that makes any differance.

The BECM outputs vary. Some are 12V when active, but others are pull down to 0V. BECM Sys Info Doc has the details. My copy is a bit blurry, but the details are in there.