4.6 HSE buying advice needed!

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bennyhammer

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Hi all,

I've been offered a 1997 4.6HSE Range Rover, around 90k on the clock, recently done exhaust and suspension.
This will be my first Range Rover and would like some advice on what i should be looking out for. Are there any typical complaints with these?, if thats not to broad a question!

I'm not expecting the world from it, £2000 for a car like this wont be perfect but would like to minimise future problems. Only going to be a weekend motor.

All advice most appreciated!
 
two of the big problems are engine overheating and some sort of crap has been put in it and the elec problems they have, if you put where you live in the country up some kind person off here may just offer to have a look at it with you.. good luck..
 
j the range said:
two of the big problems are engine overheating and some sort of crap has been put in it and the elec problems they have, if you put where you live in the country up some kind person off here may just offer to have a look at it with you.. good luck..
Click to expand...


I'm in Doncaster, the cars down in Bucks. With regards to the overheating, what is down to and is it relativley easy to resolve?
 
If it ain't LPG I doubt you'll have much left over to do any repairs.. If it's just a wkend thing have you considered an alternate? ie defender or disco? If it's a p38 u want, have you considered diesel? There's tons of p38's out there but choosing wisely is the key.
 
Loads of threads on this subject.... Have a search,... You can get lucky... And get a decent p38...check all electrics works, suspension rises quickly...... Loads to check.. good luck
 
Personally at £2k I think it needs to be a very good one or at least of had an engine, either re-linered or at least properly pressure tested and rebuilt.

If you can do your own spanner work you can do the engine for £1000 to £1500 if not prob at least another £800 on top maybe more.

I take the line that when buying if this work is not already been done then it soon will be, this way you won't get such a shock when 500 miles up the road you are facing it!! So you need to budget this into the value of the car. Personally I bought one with this in mind guessing from the way the seller was that he had something to hide but knowing that it was cheap enough to put an engine in and still have a cheap but good RR, 2 months later I faced up to it that engine it needed after his suspected gunk in the engine gave up!! But like I said bought with this in mind so I was not bothered, now I have a known good engine that I did myself and so trust the car with no worries, could not do this before!!
I reckon the best way is just buy one that someone has spent a lot of time generally sorting then the engine has gone the often they loose heart and bail out, plenty on ebay like it, there is a good one on at the moment from another landyzone member, his post is here on one of the 1st 2 pages, I feel really sorry for him but his car is here 2000 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER VOGUE AUTO BLUE on eBay (end time 17-Jul-11 23:49:58 BST) if I had the time I would jump straight in for it as you could end up with a very nice well sorted car, not necessarily much cheaper than buying a complete on the road car but it would be a known engine car for the same money at the end which I think counts a lot.

Do a search on here for 4.6 overheating or similar, if the results don't put you off just get out there and buy the best you can find plenty to choose from!!

Also oike already posted search for buying advice as well plenty of other threads, I'm on my second p38 and will buy another when this one is driven into the ground no problem!!

Hope that helps!!

Steve
 
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gulfbluersr said:
Personally at £2k I think it needs to be a very good one or at least of had an engine, either re-linered or at least properly pressure tested and rebuilt.

If you can do your own spanner work you can do the engine for £1000 to £1500 if not prob at least another £800 on top maybe more.

I take the line that when buying if this work is not already been done then it soon will be, this way you won't get such a shock when 500 miles up the road you are facing it!! So you need to budget this into the value of the car. Personally I bought one with this in mind guessing from the way the seller was that he had something to hide but knowing that it was cheap enough to put an engine in and still have a cheap but good RR, 2 months later I faced up to it that engine it needed after his suspected gunk in the engine gave up!! But like I said bought with this in mind so I was not bothered, now I have a known good engine that I did myself and so trust the car with no worries, could not do this before!!
I reckon the best way is just buy one that someone has spent a lot of time generally sorting then the engine has gone the often they loose heart and bail out, plenty on ebay like it, there is a good one on at the moment from another landyzone member, his post is here on one of the 1st 2 pages, I feel really sorry for him but his car is here 2000 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER VOGUE AUTO BLUE on eBay (end time 17-Jul-11 23:49:58 BST) if I had the time I would jump straight in for it as you could end up with a very nice well sorted car, not necessarily much cheaper than buying a complete on the road car but it would be a known engine car for the same money at the end which I think counts a lot.

Do a search on here for 4.6 overheating or similar, if the results don't put you off just get out there and buy the best you can find plenty to choose from!!

Also oike already posted search for buying advice as well plenty of other threads, I'm on my second p38 and will buy another when this one is driven into the ground no problem!!

Hope that helps!!

Steve
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i would sgree with all of what steve said, as i did just that myself well wlrth the time and pian lol
 
CEZ1869 said:
If it ain't LPG I doubt you'll have much left over to do any repairs.. If it's just a wkend thing have you considered an alternate? ie defender or disco? If it's a p38 u want, have you considered diesel? There's tons of p38's out there but choosing wisely is the key.
Click to expand...

Its going to be doing around 3-4k miles per year, not for towing either. Got my heart set on a p38 tbh, not really bothered about the diesel due to the low mileage, and to annoy my hippy neighbour who's constantly going on about how bad they are for the environment!;)

I'm kinda looking for a few questions i should be asking about it so i dont look like a complete newbie to rr's, even though i am!
 
Me personally I'd try using something like auto-trader & searching that way, something local (ish) to you, & I would aim for diesel.. ( but that's my choice) some people do say it lacks power compared to the 4.0 & 4.6, but I think it has more than enough for what u need it for, plus mine never let me down going green laning, I was pretty impressed at the performance, never ha an issue with mine overheating, some suffer as result of cheap radiators being used that can't cope with the pressure, ( signs of leaking maybe around the hoses of the rad) if you do find one, I would spend more time checking everything you can (including air suspension bags) - which is easy, & take out for a good run, get her upto temperate too.. If your doubtful, then walk away..
 
Quick & easy to check:
waterlogged spare wheel bay;
stiff to move / stained sunroof blind due to water ingress;
heavy mould or decay on rubber sunroof surrounds;
dropped headlining in the rear;
door handles not fully returning against the door after being pulled;
illegible radio display;
a good battery securely in place with bar & screw-down black plastic cover in place;
owner's handbook present - especially radio code card and emergency access card;
condition and quantity of keys;
glove box door fully operational.

Like you, I just wanted a P38. I do about 3,000 miles a year so petrol performance was affordable. I spent about six months browsing and finally pounced on a 1997 example 130 miles away. It had a soggy and wrinkled sunroof blind, unsecured battery and leaky air suspension (I missed all three!) but I am totally pleased with it and regard it as a good buy.
 
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OK, you want a petrol P38, so won`t waste time arguing about that. On original post you say 90k miles and suspension done.
90k is very low for year so is it backed up by old m.o.t.s etc? If genuine and well maintained the engine MAY be good for years to come yet, but don`t hold your breath...
Suspension done? What exactly? At that age it`ii need 4 air bags, and re-con or replacement air-pump. Read threads on EAS (or some of the hundreds here) and look at the rswsolutions site. You`ll have some idea what to expect. Check correct funcion of EAS in all modes. It is d.i.y-able but many end up tearing their own hair out.
When you visit check cold and hot starting, and insist on a LONG test drive. Mix m-way and start stop driving, look at temp gauge lots, any worries walk maway..
Good Luck.
 
gtland said:
OK, you want a petrol P38, so won`t waste time arguing about that.
Click to expand...

Now now.. dont confuse the poor chap.! He wants cash still in the pot at the end of the day, unless he's on lpg. & on saying that, all the docs will have to be present from when the conversion was done. Diesel... much less hassle.! & more reliable.!!! :D:D
 
IMHO diesel every time, but if bennyhammer is prepared to pay extra in fuel for the performance & rumble of a big V8, it`s his choice. And at only 3-4k a year expected why not?
The diesel is more reliable too, but at the age of these cars now a good V8 is gonna be better than an abused diesel.
Just be cautious and remember you`re out to buy a car... not become best buddies with the seller, don`t believe a word they say without proof, especially the pros!
 
Thanks for all the advice guys, you've given me a decent start, gonna take my time and test drive a few of them before jumping in. Will get back to you when i choose one, probably asking for assitance on how to fix all the problems i've inherited!
 
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