4.6 Auto1998 cranks wont spark no fuel

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ollyd

Active Member
Posts
111
Location
Poole, Dorset
Just picked up my first Range Rover a 1998 4.6 HSE Auto. Got it for £1100 with 95k on clock. Owner had problem where it revved up and lost power all the time. Took along a new TPS fitted it and had to jump start as flat battery but ran fine without the problems previous owner has experienced.

Gearbox and gearbox ECU had been replaced before with problem persisting. Drove to petrol station car restarted no problem. Drove 80 miles on motorway had maybe 3 events where it revved up with momentary loss of power only really a minor annoyance. Pulled into Motorway services to check everything over. After 10 minutes put key in after unlocking only dash light came on no cranking. After while realised engine check light was taking about 20 seconds to come on after blinking for a second. Was then able to crank.

No spark or fuel as cranked loads and with fuel sprayed into inlet no response and no fuel out exhaust. Key FOB now only locks and unlocks occasionally but red light always comes on. I think maybe Crank shaft sensor is damaged which maybe in partnership with faulty TPS was causing severe problems last owner had. They never drove it far as it had problem from when they bought it. I think maybe the ring on the flywheel has smashed an out of adjustment sensor on a long motorway run.

I am also aware that due to the battery drain it could be immobiliser sync. No message about EKA on dash though and I understand that GEMS does not allow cranking. Because it takes 20 seconds to recognise code could I be in a state of partial immobilisation?

Car is 30 miles away at services and its £340 to tow home so am hoping to get it fixed in one trip. Am I going along the correct lines with Crank Sensor and Re-sync?. I intend to get the EKA code fron Land Rover tomorrow and carry out all the EKA procedures I have found I understand as it's a 1998 I start with 4 turns to unlock. Also there seem to be loads of different crank sensors available anybody know which one I would need for a 1998 4.6 HSE?

Car has had new Air Mass sensor. replacement gearbox and ECU and a scan showing engine ECU and gearbox fault. I think as the gearbox get info from engine ECU and TPS this could be same problem.

Any suggestions or help appreciated. Would I need a re-sync tool or does complete EKA procedure do this including reconnecting battery with igg in position 2? Have seen people saying it just does central locking others saying it sorts immobiliser too.

HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP:confused:
 
ollyd said:
Just picked up my first Range Rover a 1998 4.6 HSE Auto. Got it for £1100 with 95k on clock. Owner had problem where it revved up and lost power all the time. Took along a new TPS fitted it and had to jump start as flat battery but ran fine without the problems previous owner has experienced.

Gearbox and gearbox ECU had been replaced before with problem persisting. Drove to petrol station car restarted no problem. Drove 80 miles on motorway had maybe 3 events where it revved up with momentary loss of power only really a minor annoyance. Pulled into Motorway services to check everything over. After 10 minutes put key in after unlocking only dash light came on no cranking. After while realised engine check light was taking about 20 seconds to come on after blinking for a second. Was then able to crank.

No spark or fuel as cranked loads and with fuel sprayed into inlet no response and no fuel out exhaust. Key FOB now only locks and unlocks occasionally but red light always comes on. I think maybe Crank shaft sensor is damaged which maybe in partnership with faulty TPS was causing severe problems last owner had. They never drove it far as it had problem from when they bought it. I think maybe the ring on the flywheel has smashed an out of adjustment sensor on a long motorway run.

I am also aware that due to the battery drain it could be immobiliser sync. No message about EKA on dash though and I understand that GEMS does not allow cranking. Because it takes 20 seconds to recognise code could I be in a state of partial immobilisation?

Car is 30 miles away at services and its £340 to tow home so am hoping to get it fixed in one trip. Am I going along the correct lines with Crank Sensor and Re-sync?. I intend to get the EKA code fron Land Rover tomorrow and carry out all the EKA procedures I have found I understand as it's a 1998 I start with 4 turns to unlock. Also there seem to be loads of different crank sensors available anybody know which one I would need for a 1998 4.6 HSE?

Car has had new Air Mass sensor. replacement gearbox and ECU and a scan showing engine ECU and gearbox fault. I think as the gearbox get info from engine ECU and TPS this could be same problem.

Any suggestions or help appreciated. Would I need a re-sync tool or does complete EKA procedure do this including reconnecting battery with igg in position 2? Have seen people saying it just does central locking others saying it sorts immobiliser too.

HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLP:confused:
Click to expand...

You will get a better response If you introduce yourself 1st :)
 
If your battery has gone flat whilst the car was locked and alarmed, then you'll have to re-mobilise the car by entering the EKA code. Flattening the battery should cause the fobs to loose sync with the car.

There is also a passive immobiliser that will immobilise the car after certain conditions are met, like 30 secs after turning the ignition off and opening the drivers door, or 10 minutes after turning the ignition off and not opening the drivers door... or your fobs become de-sychonised or are faulty to start with. The instrument pack should tell you what the problem is...

"Engine Immobilised" means that the BECM is not sending the "mobilisation" code to the engine ECU to allow it to crank and start when you turn the key. The Gems immobiliser inhibits cranking and electronically inhibits starting...doublely secure and twice as annoying! This happens when you try and start the car without disarming the alarm/immobiliser. Such as when the battery goes flat when in an alarmed state, or the car passively immobilises itself and your fob is faulty. You'll need to disarm the alarm/immobiliser with the fob or EKA to rectify this.


"Engine Disabled Press Remote" means that your fob has become desynchronised or your fob is faulty and the car cannot guarantee that your fob is the correct one to let it start. It should only pop up after you have attempted to start the car (turned the ignition key to pos III). To rectify this situation, press unlock on the remote, or enter your EKA code if your fob is faulty.

Problem is, when battery voltage gets low, there is a fault that can happen where the BECM forgets the code it is supposed to transmit to the engine ECU to allow cranking and starting. I think if this is the situation, then the car will crank, but it will not start (The BECM is happy that it's the correct key, so allows the starter motor to crank, but the engine ECU hasn't had the mobilisation code so won't fuel it or let it fire). To rectify this you'll need a SyncMate or a Nanocom, or Hawkeye to force the BECM to "relearn" it's code.

If you put where you are, there might be someone willing to come out and scan the car for fault codes and re-sync it for you...

Simple eh..oh and welcome aboard.
 
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RF emissions from the fuel station swamping the RF receiver, move the car as far as possible away from the petrol station and try again or disconnect the blue aerial wire from the RF receiver. You may still need a re-sync.
 
Thank's for the reply's. Update is am picking up new crank sensor tomorrow and getting a sync-mate hired for 3 days. Will try all the EKA procedures first, then re-sync and if all else fails fit sensor and re-sync again.

Am also replacing battery fob batteries. Will keep updated on my progress as if I get it fixed I'm sure people will want to know what it was for future reference.

From research only other likely suspect I can see is fuse box but I think I am hoping its what MrGorsky is suggesting and just re-sync. Only concern is no messages about lock out or immobilised in display and engine check does come on just after long delay and couple flashes.
 
Datatek, I see what your saying but I should have made clearer I left petrol station no problem then parked in motorway services carp park at midnight after about 80 miles driving. Car is long way from any buildings and almost no other vehicles in vicinity when fault occurred. May still disconnect RF antenna as the woman I bought it off successful checked central locking night before then it was totally dead evening I collected it leading to a 3 hour wait for jump start.

Think key was left in igg for jump start first time.
 
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If you're not getting the immobilised messages on instrument pack, then it could need re-syncing with a syncmate or similar. Remember this problem is an unintended fault so there is no error code or message for it!

...and his name is Datatek, not Datacheck!
 
Datacheck, I see what your saying but I should have made clearer I left petrol station no problem then parked in motorway services carp park at midnight after about 80 miles driving. Car is long way from any buildings and almost no other vehicles in vicinity when fault occurred. May still disconnect RF antenna as the woman I bought it off successful checked central locking night before then it was totally dead evening I collected it leading to a 3 hour wait for jump start.

Think key was left in igg for jump start first time. Should also mention when I checked oil levels on collecting it engine oil appears to be about 1/2 litre over full and gearbox oil looked over full but did not check at idle just with engine off. Previous owner fitted new gearbox, gearbox ECU and Air Mass sensor to solve revving problem with no effect hence bargain price - I hope. New TPS has certainly made it drivable day to day but I doubt it has been calibrated adaptively yet as have not gone much over 1/2 throttle due to poor engine oil condition and being overfull.
 
Oops sorry Datatek:) Yes again that makes sense will find out tomorrow. Still getting occasional power loss and revving so hoping this is either TPS learning or the crank sensor. If so may get several trouble free days motoring until the next event.
 
I pretty sure you'll need to set the new TPS values with a diagnostic tool.

It needs to know where "tick over" and WOT are for it to work properly.
 
I think your probably right about TPS. It says in RAVE to calibrate but have seen mixed posts saying it does and doesn't need doing. It certainly ticked over about where expected on start up. If the revving problem persists after crank sensor replacement will get it to a garage for a calibration.
 
Been with car for 3 hours now no joy. Re-sync gave red flash so failed to communicate. Talked to seller he said remove battery for 30 minutes eka code it then try again. Fitted crank sensor whilst waiting. Could not enter code as lights will only flash on first turn to right flash for all turns to left.

Keys still operate locks using fob so think it is ok anyway. Engine will crank under all conditions now. Engine check light comes on most times and alway comes on if I press unlock on fob whilst turning.

Any ideas? About to look at getting to back of Obd11 to check pins
 
Also pressed valve on fuel rail and got spurt of petrol so fairly sure it's not a pump problem. Got connector for obd11 out now all looks good visually
 
If the BECM has lost sync with the engine ECU it will crank, but won't start. You need to re-sync it with diagnostics.

Also, are you turning 4 times to lock before starting the EKA procedure? You need to so that before you input the first number.

Sounds like you need to resync the BECM to me though. What are using to do that with?
 
A sync mate but fails to communicate give one red flash. I guess switches in my lock are dodgy am doing 4 turns to lock first as its a 98. Do you think eka is needed if both fobs work?
 
Car had a successfull diagnostic scan few weeks before I bought it as have paperwork. Think obd11 socket is ok. Are sync mates known to be but hit and miss? Just hired this one for 3 days
 
Are you sure it's the right syncmate for the type of engine you have?

They have to match (Gems or Thor) or it won't work.

Never heard of a duff ODB socket.
 
EKA is only needed to disarm the alarm when the fob is inoperative or has become desynchronised.

After that if you insert your key into the ignition the fob will sync.

Doesn't sound like your fobs are unsynchronised if you can crank the engine though.

I thought you just plug the syncmate in with the ignition on and it did it's stuff. I don't have one though so I might be wrong.
 
Just payed Fleet services for another 2 days parking as looks like this is going to take a while. On plus side little bit oily on casings underneath but not one drop of fluid on floor after couple days standing.
 
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