Disco 1 300tdi manual conversion

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Defender90Dan

Member
Posts
41
Location
Hull
Morning all

Right I've looked for a thread containing everything needed to go from auto to manual and can't seem to find much apart from plenty of people going WHY but WHY.

So here's why, my truck is slow as ****. Changed the EDC to a manual pump and stuck a boost pin in and not much better just rags the knackers off of it.

So I'm used to a manual so I'm going back manual. Simple as that:)

I just don't know what pipes or hoses I need as it's bits you normally throw away or chop.

I have :-
Clutch kit
Flywheel & plate
R380 gearbox
Master cylinder
Slave cylinder
Spigot bush.

What I don't have is the clutch pedal & bracket (Not paying £60)
All the pipes and hoses to make it functional (haven't got a clue what I need)

So other than those bits, do I need anything else?


Cheers
 
you only need the clutch pipes from master to slave which will be a steel going from master to lower bulkhead then a flexi to slave
 
jamesmartin said:
you only need the clutch pipes from master to slave which will be a steel going from master to lower bulkhead then a flexi to slave
Click to expand...

Don't happen to have a part number?
Rang John Craddock & rimmers & the steel pipes are obsolete now apparently nowhere stocks them
 
Henry_b said:
Gunna be slow as **** with a manual or an auto ;)

I'd stay Auto but thats me ;)
Click to expand...

Funnily enough, I'm collecting the bits together to convert SWMBO's D1 from manual to Auto.... largely for medical reasons as she has Osteopenae in her back, having broken it twice :eek:... and even with a servo on the clutch - it's getting too much for her :(

When I've worked some magic on the pump*, and fitted a full width intercooler - it will not be slow:)

OP - If you've still got all the bits for the EDC - put it back on wiv yer stick shift thingy .... 122HP is better than 111...

(* Actually, I'll have this bit done properly by someone with the right test kit )
 
As for clutch pipes, it might be worth searching Kit Car suppliers, like Europa, if they still exist, they are used to supplying non-standard kits and may even have a clutch pedal, for not much money. I'll have a poke around and get back on if I find anything.
 
Disco1BFG said:
Funnily enough, I'm collecting the bits together to convert SWMBO's D1 from manual to Auto.... largely for medical reasons as she has Osteopenae in her back, having broken it twice :eek:... and even with a servo on the clutch - it's getting too much for her :(

When I've worked some magic on the pump*, and fitted a full width intercooler - it will not be slow:)

OP - If you've still got all the bits for the EDC - put it back on wiv yer stick shift thingy .... 122HP is better than 111...

(* Actually, I'll have this bit done properly by someone with the right test kit )
Click to expand...

Personally prefer auto in big cars. ;)

The ZF4spd does a good job of "masking" the lack of grunt, and IMHO the power loss is minimal, between the gearboxes.

I drove a 300tdi Auto and manual D1 before getting my D2 they were slow but not much, if any difference between them in regards to straight line speed.

Prolly because you have to change gear and the R380 isn't exactly a short throw racing box ;)

Alas a TD5 Auto is a great combo IMHO. ;)

Good luck with the coversion,

Any chance of some pictures? ;)
 
Right, found this, https://www.europaspares.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=brake+pipe
Brake pipe is fine for clutches.
You could also simply go to a thread and pipe company with the master and the slave and a piece of wire bent to the shape and length it needs to be they should make it up for you with the right ends on it. Brake pipe guys are used to bending it all up.
But you do need a bit of flexi else it could work-harden and crack.
You could buy a reel of Kunifer, some unions, a brake pipe bender and a tool to make flared ends. I have all this stuff from when I used to build kit cars. I think I have done my last one now! But it would probably be cheaper to take my first option.
Have you tried Land Rover breakers for this stuff? You ought to at least be able to get a clutch pedal.
Best of luck.
 
By the way, 300tdi manuals don't have to be slow. Try putting a proper sports exhaust on it, that transformed mine, then there are bigger intercoolers, VV turbos etc, etc, etc ,yawn, forums are full of what you can do. Just think of the fuel you'll save!
 
Henry_b said:
Personally prefer auto in big cars. ;)

The ZF4spd does a good job of "masking" the lack of grunt, and IMHO the power loss is minimal, between the gearboxes.

I drove a 300tdi Auto and manual D1 before getting my D2 they were slow but not much, if any difference between them in regards to straight line speed.

Prolly because you have to change gear and the R380 isn't exactly a short throw racing box ;)

Alas a TD5 Auto is a great combo IMHO. ;)

Good luck with the coversion,

Any chance of some pictures? ;)
Click to expand...
td5 is great with an auto 300tdi not so,obviously top speed isnt effected but before lock up 300 auto is disappointing
 
After having no luck at local breakers or even on the 4x4 Facebook groups I got the pipes sorted that I needed to from a breaker in Wales that I sold an engine to years ago so I have everything needed to do it next week.
Should be fairly straight forward but we will certainly see.

Mine was a completely standard red D1 ES
And this is what it is now.

Only have to paint it orange (then maybe paint it again if I don't like it) and finish the front and rear winch bumpers.


Probably doesn't help that I'm thinking of putting in a p38 4l v8, I love creating work for myself

Or may go get a 200tdi manifold and see if the Audi a4 turbo makes it any better.

It's been a project of mine for a couple of years as wanted everything new so I knew it was right and tight and not somebody else's bodge job - my bank account hates me but I love it
 

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Henry_b said:
I agree there.. :cool:

Someone once told me the the slowness if part of the charm, even if continental drift is faster :eek::confused::D
Click to expand...
It's a 4wd ffs, not a sports car, if you need to go fast and own 4x4, buy a new Ferrari!
The old 300Tdi has one big advantage over many other powerplants, it's got no or, in some cases, few electronics, it's easy to fix. It might be slow but it's better than walking.
 
Henry_b said:
I agree there.. :cool:

Someone once told me the the slowness if part of the charm, even if continental drift is faster :eek::confused::D
Click to expand...

:p - the 300Tdi is eminently tunable - and, as I have said ( too many times :rolleyes: :p:p ), mine is tuned to 146 HP *- it is NOT slow ... and also, the only electronics are within the MFU, so max £350 if that lets its smoke out ;) :D

* and could be much more, but the intake roar is feckin unbearable IMHO :)
 
Gazbo said:
It's a 4wd ffs, not a sports car, if you need to go fast and own 4x4, buy a new Ferrari!
The old 300Tdi has one big advantage over many other powerplants, it's got no or, in some cases, few electronics, it's easy to fix. It might be slow but it's better than walking.
Click to expand...

Ihave a jag to go fast ;)

wasn't complaining about it's lack of grunt, tongue in cheek etc etc :)
;
 
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