300tdi good or bad buy?

not long since bought a 300tdi automatic had to bury old 200 her days were done (too much welding required although a cracking runner,thinking i was being clever i ripped out the intercooler a jeremy fearn one and thought it would drop nicely into new motor!!!!!how wrong was i 300 has got aircon and being automatic there is no room for it so it got sold,changed downpipe from old truck onto new one and adjusted fuel pu any ideas welcomem any other ideas welcome on how improve performance on 300

K&N air filter
dump the visco fan - whether you live without one or put in a leccy one up to you.
usual stuff about intercooler,fuel filters etc
mine does about 30mpg and pulls like a good un

could be good if you tweak it a bit here and there.

The pump on a 200/300 tdi can be adjusted to give 25 BHP extra . This is particularly valuable with autos as it takes that dangerous lag away when pulling away at junctions.
Proceed as follows.
Stage one is to increase the turbo pressure ...you must shorten the waste gate rod by about 6 mm to raise the turbo pressure to 16 psi..easy on a 200 pig on a 300 ...mind you dont loose the circlip and loosen the locking nut first ...make a length of 1/2 in bar with a slot in the end to push the rod back into place ...essential on a 300. Use a gauge to measure the pressure ...T piece in pipe to injection pump...fuel pressure gauge is often the cheapest to buy ...plastic screen washer T is OK. ( the above adjustment alone will give no increase in performance)

Stage 2

remove the four screws from the power valve on top of the pump ( squarish plate with brass cover in centre ..big screwdriver very tight) The top of the plate will spring up...notice how far it rises on top of the spring.(say 7mm) Remove the cover. Then you will see a black diaphragm..if you want with tippex mark its positon relative to the casing and then remove the diaphragm (lift edges and pull up) remove the spring underneath (do not move the trottle when the diaphragm is out !!) at the bottom of the cavitly you will see a toothed wheel. You need to screw this down to reduce the lift in the top plate to about 3mm ( 7 - 4 =3 ) Wind it down with the edge of a screwdriver and then re fit everything to check the lift ..rarely I have had to remove the ali wheel and grind some off the bottom to get it to go down enough. Now examine the shaft on the diaphragm ...you will see an off centre cut out at the bottom ...re fit the diaphragm with the deepest part of the cut out towards the rear of the vehicle...this gives you max fuel. dont forget the sping and check you still have some lift in the top plate as you screw it down...thats it done .....If you do have some smoke then you have two choices ...increase the turbo pressure or reduce the fuel a little by rotating the diaphragm a little clock or anticloc it dont matter... I have rarely found this the case ...no need to re adjust for the MOT all mine had very low c02 and passed easy....
I do not advise adjusting the screw under the brass cap or the main fuel adjuster at the rear ...you may get a tiney bit more but when you get smoke its a pain to know what to adjust ..adjust only the three items mentioned ...turbo pressure...diaphragm rotation and spring pressure...done dozens without problems one on a supermarket car park!

Check boost pipe going from turbo to fuel pump is not melted at the back of engine .If it is you wont get any boost fueling.

Bobs reply will give you most gain but it's also worth blanking off your egr & using Millers powersport 4 diesel additive at double the recommended dosage.

do yu have shares?