300tdi boost pin wear

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Woolfy96 said:
Unfortunatly it’s really hard to get a pic as the line is very faint but the little drawing explains what I’m seeing.
Also cheers for the help guys as I’m not the brightest spark when it comes to the techy bits
Click to expand...
Good stuff.
The line made by the 300 is shorter than the one made by the 200 - so the pin is not moving up & down as much.
the 300 line, is it at the bottom end of the slope (the fattest part of the cone) ?
If it is, then the pin is moving normally, but not going down as far - probably because either it's not got as much boost pressure on the diaphragm, or the star wheel has been turned the "wrong" way and there is too much resistance against it.

If that makes sense?
 
At the moment, it looks like the standard pin is doing it's job correctly (if not at full efficiency)

But there is no explanation why your boost pin is only marked at the top, or why there was diesel in the chamber.

If you can be bothered, put some permanent marker all over the face of the boost pin and refit it, rev the engine a few times and then look where the black marker has rubbed away.
I have a suspicion some crazy man might have made that hole to get the pin to "lock" in the max fuelling position.....can't think of any other explanation on the current evidence ?

Very strange.
 
exmed wayne said:
Good stuff.
The line made by the 300 is shorter than the one made by the 200 - so the pin is not moving up & down as much.
the 300 line, is it at the bottom end of the slope (the fattest part of the cone) ?
If it is, then the pin is moving normally, but not going down as far - probably because either it's not got as much boost pressure on the diaphragm, or the star wheel has been turned the "wrong" way and there is too much resistance against it.

If that makes sense?
Click to expand...
Yes the 300 line sit further down the pin, and I think I understand what you mean, one problem is that when I went for the test run it still made lots of smoke when it was low in the Revs in 3rd and 4th but wouldn’t that be caused by the star wheel being too far in and letting fuel dump in before the boost picks up or am I wrong here
 
exmed wayne said:
At the moment, it looks like the standard pin is doing it's job correctly (if not at full efficiency)

But there is no explanation why your boost pin is only marked at the top, or why there was diesel in the chamber.

If you can be bothered, put some permanent marker all over the face of the boost pin and refit it, rev the engine a few times and then look where the black marker has rubbed away.
I have a suspicion some crazy man might have made that hole to get the pin to "lock" in the max fuelling position.....can't think of any other explanation on the current evidence ?

Very strange.
Click to expand...
Bright idea that, I’ll look for a marker
 
Despite my advice above, I am not an expert, I only know about the boost pins from doing my own and researching a bit.
I would say from your drawing: (assuming the top of the picture is the bottom of the pin)
The start position of the 300 line is lower (which would mean the pin sits higher inside the chamber) , so there is more resistance pushing it up against the diaphragm. - could be star wheel or weaker / shorter spring in the 200Tdi.
The 300 line is shorter, regardless of start point, so it is moving less distance - probably lower boost pressure in the 300.

200 v 300.jpeg
 
My favourite at the moment - low boost pressure making the pin move up & down less
possibly related to an air leak somewhere downstream of turbo or problem with actuator
less air going into engine compared to the amount of diesel, so it's smoking pretty much at all rpm's

Time to get it seen by someone who really knows their stuff.
 
exmed wayne said:
Despite my advice above, I am not an expert, I only know about the boost pins from doing my own and researching a bit.
I would say from your drawing: (assuming the top of the picture is the bottom of the pin)
The start position of the 300 line is lower (which would mean the pin sits higher inside the chamber) , so there is more resistance pushing it up against the diaphragm. - could be star wheel or weaker / shorter spring in the 200Tdi.
The 300 line is shorter, regardless of start point, so it is moving less distance - probably lower boost pressure in the 300.

View attachment 164256
Click to expand...
Marker worked a treat, so maybe it would be a better idea to up the boost rather than play with the star wheel, or maybe a mix of both?
 

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Woolfy96 said:
That sounds expensive, I don’t like expensive haha
Click to expand...

fair one....
If you're not 100% sure, I would be careful fiddling with any more settings until someone who really knows what to do gives some more advice.

But like I said - too much fuel not enough air - is my favourite.

Still have no idea about that little hole in the original boost pin - that's going to keep me awake
I was actually talking about that pin with the hole at the top when I mentioned the black marker - to prove whether or not it's actually moving up and down.!
 
exmed wayne said:
fair one....
If you're not 100% sure, I would be careful fiddling with any more settings until someone who really knows what to do gives some more advice.

But like I said - too much fuel not enough air - is my favourite.

Still have no idea about that little hole in the original boost pin - that's going to keep me awake
I was actually talking about that pin with the hole at the top when I mentioned the black marker - to prove whether or not it's actually moving up and down.!
Click to expand...
Fair point I’ll call in some favours and get a mate with a bit more experience to tune it up, also the boost pin with the hole has absolutely no signs of it ever moving from the day it was fitted, from the history I have the pin and a vnt turbo were fitted, it was then trailered to a pay and play, sunk to the roof in a bog and then parked for 4 years
 
IIRC (and I could be totally wrong) but isn't there somewhere a measurement specification for the default position of the star wheel? i.e. measurement from star wheel to top of pin tube or pump top surface....or a measurement of spring protrusion above the pump top surface?

I could be yapping up the wrong Elm, but I am sure I have read or seen it somewhere.....
 
Figured I’d post another update after tonight’s heartache.
After my last post I haven’t had time to do very much other than find a very small boost leak, but after fixing it and testing the boost pin with a marker pen there didnt seem to be any noticable difference to the travel of the pin, set off tonight at 5 after work to get the big shop and on my way there I noticed I had my foot to the floor and wasn’t gaining speed, as soon as I lifted my foot the truck stalled and hasnt run since. Road side I have checked all hoses, lift pump, injectors, stop solenoid, changed fuel filter and checked all grounds, managed to make it run for a few second by spraying brake clean through the open intake, after this I decided to pop off the top of the pump to see if anything had happened and diesel poured out from behind the diaphram, worse than it ever had and still won’t start after empting this so i pulled the props off and got it towed home, I’m taking the injector pump off tomorrow lunch and sending it to a specialist to see if it can be rebuilt.
I’ll cry myself to sleep tonight but I should hopefully have some better news later in the week and a massive hole in my wallet I’m sure.
Cheers for the info guys
 
Woolfy96 said:
Figured I’d post another update after tonight’s heartache.
After my last post I haven’t had time to do very much other than find a very small boost leak, but after fixing it and testing the boost pin with a marker pen there didnt seem to be any noticable difference to the travel of the pin, set off tonight at 5 after work to get the big shop and on my way there I noticed I had my foot to the floor and wasn’t gaining speed, as soon as I lifted my foot the truck stalled and hasnt run since. Road side I have checked all hoses, lift pump, injectors, stop solenoid, changed fuel filter and checked all grounds, managed to make it run for a few second by spraying brake clean through the open intake, after this I decided to pop off the top of the pump to see if anything had happened and diesel poured out from behind the diaphram, worse than it ever had and still won’t start after empting this so i pulled the props off and got it towed home, I’m taking the injector pump off tomorrow lunch and sending it to a specialist to see if it can be rebuilt.
I’ll cry myself to sleep tonight but I should hopefully have some better news later in the week and a massive hole in my wallet I’m sure.
Cheers for the info guys
Click to expand...

Small boost leak + pressure of diesel in chamber would stop the diaphragm from pushing the pin it's full travel downwards.
Chin up.....you'll soon have a nice recon Injection pump and it should run lovely for another 30 years :D
 
Its annoying but looks like my problems will be solved soon,
Turns out my truck also got hydrolocked with diesel, bent all the push rods and snapped a few rocker arms so I have decided that instead of forking out loads of cash to fix everything I’m just going to put another 300tdi in this weekend, bought a full 300tdi engine that I have seen running with all the anti tamper bits still on the pump.
Doubt I will have any problems from now so I’d like to thank you lot for all your help, never been on the forum before and you lot were rapid at answering my questions and helping me out, I really appreciate it
 
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